Black LS1 T/A

Remember me?

I'm finally going into this engine (the 422 torque monster, ready to come out). But, I hate the way the iron block retains heat and the cooling issues with it. Plus the extra weight up front.

I need to talk this out. Do I just see what I have to replace and rebuild this baby, or go get an LS3 conversion and go with that?

I will retain the D-1SC Procharger.

Oh .. the guys that talked the best price for what I want so far is Texas Speed Performance. Any experiences with their engines would be greatly appreciated as well.

Thanks!

Black LS1 T/A

Also, anyone who can relate their experience with this 100mm MAF would be great:

http://texas-speed.com/p-660-texas-s...ow-sensor.aspx

QuickSilverNA

What bore and stroke is the 422? Iron Block will seal the rings better than the LS3 block especially in prochargered application with decent amount of boost. Another thing to think about is with less cubes the boost with the same pulley will go up.

Whats wrong with the 422?

How much boost do you have now?

If you have the 4.100/4.125 stroke crank? If so your piston compression height around 1.065. This makes the ring pack fairly tight, not much skirt(piston rocks more in bore), etc... Its just my opinion but I dont like the 4.100/4.125 cranks for high hp applications, and longevity.

Maybe consider, keep the block and rods, go to 4.000 crank, and new pistons.

On the 100mm MAF. Sounds like you have quite the animal, get someone to SD tune it without a MAF. Those 98 cars are tuff on the tuning.

Black LS1 T/A

4.030 Bore, 4.125 Stroke (From GM 6.0L)

Actual "what's wrong" piece: It has low oil pressure (didn't hear any knocking or weird engine noises, just low oil pressure when the oil heats up) We changed the oil pump. The bearings we could check with oil pan off were in spec, oil was pristine and bottom end looked new. Put it back together ... same oil pressure problem.

When it first had this condition? When I got traction at the track (this never happened on the street, when it would break traction), the transmission would not shift at the shift points programmed and it would hit the rev limiter at WOT. The last time I went to the track, this occurred several times while I kept lowering the shift point trying to find a setting for it to shift.

Anyway, on the way home, the oil pressure was low and was that way ever since (about 45 PIS when first cranked, oil not hot, but about 20 to 25 PSI cruising after the oil gets hot and only 10-15 PSI at idle).

My personal reasons to move to an aluminum block? I hate the way the iron block retains heat and the cooling issues associated with it. Plus the extra weight up front makes consistent launch times harder to attain. Plus I think the extra weight contributes to the transmission dying more frequently.

Around 11 to 13 PSI with the 8 rib Superdamper setup and 3.4" SC pulley. I bought a 3.6" pulley too (or was it 3.8"), in case I decided to decrease boost a bit.

Yeah .. I run out of MAF WAY early, with the air flow. I can't get a reading on what's going on after about 4800 RPMs.

I really appreciate your perspective and feedback .... I need to think this through so I minimize having remorse for my ultimate decision afterwards. Any alternate perspectives you guys can give me will help me feel I considered all the options. This forum was always good that way.

Black LS1 T/A

BTW, I dyno'd at 757 RWTQ, but it would then nosedive before HP could follow it past 549 RWHP. My problem was the 6-rib belt was slipping at higher RPM and power would not stay up. I was lucky to make 10 PSI boost. Plus, when it spun up, the crank bolt would back out.

I pinned the crank when I put the Superdamper in.

silverbeast

iTrader: (16)

I will chime in here since i just went through this exact dilemma. I had a 423 ci motor that ran great and made great power. (548 rwhp through a th350 ) The guys at Tick Performance built it and i was happy with it but when i decided to throw a 200 shot on top of it the 4.125 stroke didnt like it too much as i clipped a ring . So i had them build me a LS3 416 w/ a 4" stroke and it is a monster. Made almost the same power ( 536) with a nitrous tune and made well over 800 rwhp on gas. (836rwhp)

Give them a call and they will get you right. I would much rather buy my motor from someone local over someone halfway across the country. If you have a problem you need help with it is much easier if the builder is local. Just a thought. good luck

Fastdriver1992

iTrader: (1)

To the op did u ever find out why your oil pressure does that? Mine did the same thing all of a sudden and i replaced everything and cant figure i out

Black LS1 T/A

Fastdriver1992, hope to have it apart within a week or so. I will certainly give you an update when we figure that part out.

Black LS1 T/A

SilverBeast, thanks for the info. I work in Cary and they are in Morrisville? Perhaps I will give them a visit.

silverbeast

iTrader: (16)

They are in Mooresville, just north of Charlotte. You will be very pleased with those guys and their work.

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

these are all BS reasons.

Black LS1 T/A

I accept your opinion ... even if spoken in an immature fashion. Could you explain the "why" of your comment or suggest how I might make the Iron Block setup more effective? That is what the questions are all about.

I ran 10.98 at 125 MPH on the Stock Alum block. I ran consistent times. (11:01 @ 126 MPH, 10:99 @ 125, etc.) Transmission did not break but once after the first performance build. It never ran hot; still had my A/C functionality.

With the Iron block, my temps are high even after buying a larger radiator and bigger fan solution. I get more KR than before. Only after finally getting an electric water pump are my temps more manageable, but it still shoots up after every run ... it's just that I can run water thru the block and cool the engine quicker between runs.

The car is heavier up front; the transmission has broken in one way or other 3 or 4 times ... I lost count.

What was my ET gain for all that headache? I ran 10.84 at 124 MPH.

So, to my mind, if I had just put forged internals in an alum block, the performance I was happy with would have been reliable. And if I increased the cubes, I would have gained more.

Black LS1 T/A

Option I'm considering:

I still have the original Aluminum block. I move the internals I can use out of the iron block and transfer the performance heads over, bore the alum block from the stock bore to 4.00 and get a piston/ring kit to fit.

415 CID stroker.

That's not much difference from the 422, but all my issues are addressed.

What will I truly gain from the heat-soak behavior of the iron block compared to the aluminum block setup at that power level?

PS: BS is not a sufficent response ... that is next to no answer at all.

Thanks!

godlyxdan

iTrader: (1)

it sounds like you've already decided what you want to do
So go with the Aluminum block

Black LS1 T/A

I was hoping for some thought-provoking debate about the options. If no one has an argument against it or some food for thought to share, then I guess it may just be a matter of preference.

At least by posting my questions I got a recommendation from Silverbeast about a shop not too far from me that may be worth the visit.

Thanks for the input.

99peweterls1

iTrader: (1)

Aluminum all the way for me. The iron is stronger and cheap for a budget build but aluminum has been proven to hold power the power with no problem. Like it has already been mentioned a 4" crank is ideal for power adder applications.

godlyxdan

iTrader: (1)

well if you want input, i would actually agree with the aluminum block

they do run a little cooler, it does weigh a little less, the only trade off is durability. The iron is much more durable but on the off chance you damage the AL you can always get it repaired, your call but i agree with the AL Block

COPO9560

More money but a sleeved aluminum block would give you the best of all worlds. You could go to 4.125 inch bore and keep the shorter 4 inch stroke for a total of 427 cubes. Your heads will breath better with the larger bore and if you want to replace them there are many good options.

Only issue I see with this route is your D1 might have to be replaced with an F1A to keep up.

Black LS1 T/A

Great food for thought! I appreciate it, guys.

The only think I ever really hear in the iron block's favor are durability and cost, as godlyxdyn mentioned. Those are great, but I didn't have problems with the aluminum block in my power level. The main issue was keeping the heads down, and I'm sure my internals would not have held up over the long term. Other than that, it was great, from what I can tell.

I'm just trying to listen and learn.

Black LS1 T/A

copo9560, 427 is the magic number I love to hear. I just don't know if the cost of sleeving a block will justify the extra cubes.

Gotta admit it's music to my ears, though.