JCurtin

iTrader: (1)

Ok I installed pacesetter headers and ory on my car a few weeks ago. As well as a 3500 tci. Well heres the deal, all of the sudden the car doesnt want to start. It tries to start, nothing nothing, but when I give it alot of gas, vrrr...vrrrroooomm. It comes to life and idles fine, drives fine. Cut the car off, cranks fine the 1st time,2nd time, 3rd time...same thing all over again. Loud knocking noise. Could the headers or ypipe be causing it to make this horrible knocking sound when it tries to turn over. I grinded down the kmember but it seems as though the header is still hitting it, and the ypipe is hitting the floorboard. I removed AIR/egr on the car, so yes it is throwing those codes, I broke the temp sensor, replaced it, and that code is still there. No knock codes. Car in question is a 98transam,pacesetter race header,ory,flowmaster,ftra/slp lid.
I tried doing searches on this subject, but I dont exactly understand knock retard, false knock. So could that be the problem? An older guy tonight said it sounded like the motor was working against it self, like spinnin backwards wtf does that mean? Could new motor mounts fix this? Kick the header? I am lost and in need of some serious help. Any help at all will be greatly appreciated.

hawaiiboysz

iTrader: (4)

probably because of the cheap headers lol

JCurtin

iTrader: (1)

oh you shut up! These cheap headers hang with yours now dont they Damn prototype car! Why oh why do i have to have a 98!!

Fast SS on TNT

iTrader: (1)

Stop picking on Jay! Don't make me bitch slap you with my SS!!!!

I have heard of false knock problems with headers and exhaust banging the floorboards, but on start up this being a problem is a new one on me. Why don't you have Parish ATAP your car and see what the hell is going on. Everytime you do something new to your car Jay, that bastard runs like crap. Maybe you should buy a Yugo, and mod it out. Yugo SS/WS6 SLP Edition....cool!

JCurtin

iTrader: (1)

why do i have to give it gas to get the car to start?!!! what the **** is going on.

TWISTA TA

You pay for what you get. Thats why I paid $1000 for kooks

JCurtin

iTrader: (1)

cost of some headers aint telling me ****. If i wanted to know how much people spent for some longtubes I woulda asked.

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

sounds like it is choaking for some reason? Needs more air to start??

johnboy

I sent you a pm. In case you didnt get it.... my car did the EXACT same thing. Just took a few days and the car fixed itself, the EGR removal and no rear o2's are just confusing the hell out it right now!!

I say if you paid $1000 for headers.... you paid about $600 too much!!

Steve98Z

Could be the cam position sensor, for you sake I hope it is not

5150Z28

Did you plug the map sensor back in after installing the Headers? It should be right in front of the #1 cylinder exhaust tube (drivers side). A long time ago I installed some headers and forgot to plug this in. The car woudn't start unless I gave it a lot of gas.

slick98ta

make sure if you got a new temp sensor you got it for a 98'.Because 99-newer are different.I know a guy having those same problems with a 98' regaurding a temp sensor

MM98

iTrader: (13)

That's the coolant temp sensor... The map sensor is on the back of the intake.

NightHawk

iTrader: (1)

Exactly. Plenty of people have pacesetters and have had NO problems with them at all. Maybe you should try to help the guy instead of shitting on him for not being so spend happy as to blow double what he should have on a set of headers.

JCurtin

iTrader: (1)

I did change the low coolant temp sensor, since we broke it, yes it is a 3prong(98). Yesterday I changed me 2 week old ngks that were all fouled, I also changed the oil, checke the fuel pressure on the fuel rail. My tps must be junk as well, I swapped my friends 01s into it and the car ran fine. Oh i forgot its starting to have an erratic idle. Changed the drivers side o2, it was reading way lower than the other, now they are equal. I also replaced the drivers side header gasket with a new stock metal gasket, but it seems like the drivers side header is still not sealed on the head, no longer getting the exhaust fumes right by the header, but the drivers side is definitely emitting a shitload more heat in the engine bay. The passenger side is fine, but I stuck my head by the header to listen and smell and the heat damn near burnt my face, as I said passenger side is not like this at all. Oh if anyone happens to read this thread here are the codes I am throwing.
P1546
0405
0118
1122
0135
please give help please!

hawaiiboysz

iTrader: (4)

Jay check this out--
P1546- Has something to do w/ your A/C or HVAC system it said that if voltage is not detected when A/C is requested this DTC sets
P0405- If PCM detects an excessivelly low EGR position sensor signal voltage
this DTC will set. I guess from yanking the EGR crap out.
P0118- The engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor is a variable resistor, sometimes called a thermistor, that measures the temperature of the engine coolant. The PCM supplies 5 volts to the ECT signal circuit. When the ECT is cold, the sensor rersistance is high. When the ECT is increases, the sensor resistance lowers. With high sensor resistance , the PCM detects a high voltage on the ECT curcuit. With lower sensor resistance, the PCM detects a lower voltage on the ECT signal curcuit. If the PCM detects an excessively high ECT signal voltage, which is a low temp indication, this DTC will set.
P1122- Your TP sensor is crap, Your PCM is detecting an intermittent, excessively high signal voltage, this DTC will set.
P0135- Your 02 sensors man must be cause you dont have none.

that 118 code suck I didnt know how to break it down. Man maybe your battery sucks or something. funny how all of this **** broke at one time. I got all the trouble shooting steps if you want to try it out. and maybe we can score blaich's scan tool. Whatever hope this helps.