Bypass radiator transmission cooler? Pros and cons?
12-01-2011, 08:40 PM
#1
Bypass radiator transmission cooler? Pros and cons? I was reading a thread where one of the sponsors on here recommended bypassing the factory radiator fluid cooler for the transmission and found that odd. I always heard that it was a must to keep this on an auto car. I have previously read that the factory cooler will take a good amount of heat out first (liquid being a much better heat sink that air) and then installing the aftermarket cooler after this helps lower things even more.
What would the reasoning be for bypassing the factory radiator cooler completely? Is it that the coolant usually runs quite hot and could actually heat up the fluid some and then the aftermarket cooler has to cool it off even further? This was the only thing that occurred to me as being a potential problem.
Edit: This is as it might relate to a beefed up transmission and much higher stall (4000 in my case).
What would the reasoning be for bypassing the factory radiator cooler completely? Is it that the coolant usually runs quite hot and could actually heat up the fluid some and then the aftermarket cooler has to cool it off even further? This was the only thing that occurred to me as being a potential problem.
Edit: This is as it might relate to a beefed up transmission and much higher stall (4000 in my case).
Last edited by Sarg; 12-05-2011 at 04:04 PM.
12-01-2011, 08:57 PM
#2
The factory cooler being in the radiator heats up the fluid a lot faster than if it is dis conected from the system. It will never get below 190 ,and this is after a couple of minits running because the radiator coolant gets hot fast. I have had mine disconnected for years now on my race car,it takes a long time now just too warm up the trans fluid at the track.I would suggest putting a temp guage in your car for the trans fluid and monitor your driving too see if your getting hotter than 220 ish. Two or three pulls on the street with a high stall converter will have your temps in the 240-250 zone in the summer heat. If its too hot do the disconnect from the radiator and or install a B&M 3 quart deeper trans pan.
12-01-2011, 10:06 PM
#3
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In Hot'lanta, bypass it. It acts as a heater in most instances. When you delete it, you'll see your trans temps stay a lot cooler for a lot longer. With a factory cooler inplace, pan temps are gonna hit 180+ extremely quick.
12-05-2011, 01:35 PM
#4
I converted my M6 car to 4L80e so I don't even have a trans cooler in the radiator. All I have is a plate cooler I got from a 2500HD truck in the salvage yard.
Driving around the other day, the trans temps hit the upper 180's, but dropped back into the 170's once I got on the highway. Stall converter with lockup. Granted, it was a cool night, probably in the lower 70's.
Driving around the other day, the trans temps hit the upper 180's, but dropped back into the 170's once I got on the highway. Stall converter with lockup. Granted, it was a cool night, probably in the lower 70's.
12-05-2011, 02:31 PM
#5
My main concern is if an auxiliary cooler could keep up if you are beating on it for a prolonged period or stuck in traffic. Again this is in the case of a built transmission and converter making 700+ hp.
Last edited by Sarg; 12-05-2011 at 05:31 PM.
07-02-2012, 08:12 AM
#7
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Bringing this back to the top for more discussion. I have a 4L80e going behind a 6.0L LQ9 in a 72 Chevy 4x4 truck that that will be a daily driver.... This weeks forecast is 106* to 108* all week... The radiator doesn't have provisions for a trans cooler so I was planning on running a Derale DE13614 plate type cooler in front of the radiator.... Is this enough cooling? I will probable run a deep pan as well....
