10 Second Club - Deeper into the 10's it goes.

Went to the track last night with the new setup and ran a best of 10.39@129mph with a 1.414 60ft 6.602@103.86 1/8mile.
This is a new motor with less than 200 miles on it.

402ci LS2 with trick flow 215cnc heads, EPS cam, ARH 1-7/8-3" headers custom 3" true duals. th350 8" 5000 PTC stall converter, full suspension, strange 12 bolt rearend with 4.11 rear gear and weighing in at 3500lbs.

Sounds like a good setup with some pretty damn impresive numbers....Congrats

Very nice times ... I also have an LS2 402 / TFS CNC'd 215's, but with a bit smaller cam and 1-3/4's through an M6. No track times yet, but I am hoping for high 6's/high 10's.

Very nice times ... I also have an LS2 402 / TFS CNC'd 215's, but with a bit smaller cam and 1-3/4's through an M6. No track times yet, but I am hoping for high 6's/high 10's.

Did you do anything to the heads? I had my heads reworked and we installed bigger intake valves. Also my Fast 90mm is ported. The specs on my cam @50 are 246/255 and mid 600's lift

Did you do anything to the heads? I had my heads reworked and we installed bigger intake valves. Also my Fast 90mm is ported. The specs on my cam @50 are 246/255 and mid 600's lift

The heads are stock Trick Flow CNC'd 215's (2.040"/1.575") that were milled to spec, but I have no idea how much ... the compression is 11.6 according to Vengeance. Here are the flow numbers ...

0.100 59.6 68.3
0.200 121.9 139.8
0.300 186.7 218.5
0.400 231.4 270.9
0.500 254.2 304.3
0.550 260.2 314.8
0.600 266.1 321.8

My FAST 90 was ported by Vengeance.

I am curious about your other posting of your dyno numbers that you were disappointed about. Was your run on a DynoJet or a Mustang dyno? If it was a Mustang, your numbers would be right on. Nevertheless, it's all about the 1/8 and 1/4 mile times and those you have.

The heads are stock Trick Flow CNC'd 215's (2.040"/1.575") that were milled to spec, but I have no idea how much ... the compression is 11.6 according to Vengeance. Here are the flow numbers ...

0.100 59.6 68.3
0.200 121.9 139.8
0.300 186.7 218.5
0.400 231.4 270.9
0.500 254.2 304.3
0.550 260.2 314.8
0.600 266.1 321.8

My FAST 90 was ported by Vengeance.

I am curious about your other posting of your dyno numbers that you were disappointed about. Was your run on a DynoJet or a Mustang dyno? If it was a Mustang, your numbers would be right on. Nevertheless, it's all about the 1/8 and 1/4 mile times and those you have.

My compression is around the same as yours. We opened up the bore size to 4" and installed 2.055 intake valves..

Well we figured out why my #'s were so low. On my first run at the track I thought I was blowing through the converter. I was bouncing off of the rev limiter before the 1/8 mile point so I got out of it. So I decided to check the fluid in the transmission and found out that is was really low. I had to put 2 quarts in it. This is how the car was dynoed so the dyno #'s aren't even close. My 60ft on that pass was a 1.60 but again that was due to the transmission fluid level. After I added the fluid it ran strong as a mofo.. 1.41 60ft.

My compression is around the same as yours. We opened up the bore size to 4" and installed 2.055 intake valves..

Well we figured out why my #'s were so low. On my first run at the track I thought I was blowing through the converter. I was bouncing off of the rev limiter before the 1/8 mile point so I got out of it. So I decided to check the fluid in the transmission and found out that is was really low. I had to put 2 quarts in it. This is how the car was dynoed so the dyno #'s aren't even close. My 60ft on that pass was a 1.60 but again that was due to the transmission fluid level. After I added the fluid it ran strong as a mofo.. 1.41 60ft.

I am thinking the heads' chamber sizes and 2.055" intakes really opened it up. Around 555 rwhp is what it takes to move a 3500# combined car and driver weight threw the traps in 10.39 seconds. You probably have 60-70 bhp over me ... roughly 670 vs. 600 bhp.

Great ... now you have me wanting a set of LS2 TFS 225's for a 4.000 bore with 2.055" intakes .... boy, my wife will be mad at you :mad: ... !!!!

I am thinking the heads' chamber sizes and 2.055" intakes really opened it up. Around 555 rwhp is what it takes to move a 3500# combined car and driver weight threw the traps in 10.39 seconds. You probably have 60-70 bhp over me ... roughly 670 vs. 600 bhp.

Great ... now you have me wanting a set of LS2 TFS 225's for a 4.000 bore with 2.055" intakes .... boy, my wife will be mad at you :mad: ... !!!!

There is no need to buy those heads. I talked to Brian Tooley and he told me that the TFS 215cnc heads actually had a 220 intake runner with a little shorter cross section than the 225cnc heads (they don't flow to much more out of the box). Just send your heads out and have them open the chamber up to a 4.005" to match the gasket and do the valve job to install the bigger valves.. Then call Geoff and let him custom spec you a cam for your application and direction. All the head work including buying the valves cost me just under $1000.00. This is a lot cheaper than trying to sell your heads at a lost and then come out of pocket for another $1500+ to buy the TFS 225cnc head.
Just my .02

There is no need to buy those heads. I talked to Brian Tooley and he told me that the TFS 215cnc heads actually had a 220 intake runner with a little shorter cross section than the 225cnc heads (they don't flow to much more out of the box). Just send your heads out and have them open the chamber up to a 4.005" to match the gasket and do the valve job to install the bigger valves.. Then call Geoff and let him custom spec you a cam for your application and direction. All the head work including buying the valves cost me just under $1000.00. This is a lot cheaper than trying to sell your heads at a lost and then come out of pocket for another $1500+ to buy the TFS 225cnc head.
Just my .02

This is some great information .... thanks. I will definitely keep this in mind next year after this thing is sorted out and I am looking for more power.

This is some great information .... thanks. I will definitely keep this in mind next year after this thing is sorted out and I am looking for more power.

Hey man, anything I can do to help a fellow gear head.. Let me know if you have anymore questions man and good luck with your car..

Did you have a chance to take you car to the track? If so let me know what it did. E.T. and MPH.. Thanks

Hey man, anything I can do to help a fellow gear head.. Let me know if you have anymore questions man and good luck with your car..

Did you have a chance to take you car to the track? If so let me know what it did. E.T. and MPH.. Thanks

.... and I appreciate it, especially help from someone with a similar setup. Too bad you were not running an M6 ... I would have more questions.

I just bought a car hauler (posting in Racers Lounge) the day before yesterday, so I am inching ever so close to the track. I have my RT-S's, but have not pulled the trigger yet on tires ... my street tires are worthless for a timed run with my torque. Fronts I have made up my mind to go with MT Sportsman 8 ply and have found a set of 28/10.5 ET Drag take-offs, but they are not stiff walls (undecided on those). My local track is an 1/8-mile so I will make shake down runs there, but I will probably be black flagged at a 1/4-mile track for no roll bar. Hopefully, I will have some times soon, but if not, definitely next season.

.... and I appreciate it, especially help from someone with a similar setup. Too bad you were not running an M6 ... I would have more questions.

I just bought a car hauler (posting in Racers Lounge) the day before yesterday, so I am inching ever so close to the track. I have my RT-S's, but have not pulled the trigger yet on tires ... my street tires are worthless for a timed run with my torque. Fronts I have made up my mind to go with MT Sportsman 8 ply and have found a set of 28/11.5 ET Drag take-offs, but they are not stiff walls (undecided on those). My local track is an 1/8-mile so I will make shake down runs there, but I will probably be black flagged at a 1/4-mile track for no roll bar. Hopefully, I will have some times soon, but if not, definitely next season.

Sounds good bro and keep in touch to let me know what she does. btw I don't have a roll cage yet either. There wasn't a lot of cars at the track that night so they wasn't kicking anyone off the track that night.. LOL

I use the Hoosiers 28"x10.5" DR's on my car. They work almost like slicks on the track with the exception of they don't grow like a true slick does.

Sounds good bro and keep in touch to let me know what she does. btw I don't have a roll cage yet either. There wasn't a lot of cars at the track that night so they wasn't kicking anyone off the track that night.. LOL

I use the Hoosiers 28"x10.5" DR's on my car. They work almost like slicks on the track with the exception of they don't grow like a true slick does.

There are a few other tracks about 2-1/2 hours away from me that I have heard the same about ... cages not necessarily required. The closest 1/4-mile track to me is Atlanta Dragway which is a national event NHRA track and they WILL toss you at the end of your run.

For me, a stiff wall bias-ply would be best in an M6, so it will be slicks or an ET Street or QTP. With a bias ply up front, I will not hesitate trying a drag radial, but I personally would not run a radial up front with a bias ply in the rear (I am sure many do though) hence the decision to run MT Sportsman's up front.

I am also running a full-Spohn rear setup on stock shocks. Shocks are another upgrade planned for the winter.

There are a few other tracks about 2-1/2 hours away from me that I have heard the same about ... cages not necessarily required. The closest 1/4-mile track to me is Atlanta Dragway which is a national event NHRA track and they WILL toss you at the end of your run.

For me, a stiff wall bias-ply would be best in an M6, so it will be slicks or an ET Street or QTP. With a bias ply up front, I will not hesitate trying a drag radial, but I personally would not run a radial up front with a bias ply in the rear (I am sure many do though) hence the decision to run MT Sportsman's up front.

I am also running a full-Spohn rear setup on stock shocks. Shocks are another upgrade planned for the winter.

That's the tires I am running up front in a 3.5" rim with Hoosiers 28" tall DR's in the rear..

Congrats on the new times!

N2