Bringing the WS6 back to life front mount build thread with pics.
12-02-2011, 06:00 AM
#1
Bringing the WS6 back to life front mount build thread with pics. So almost a year after trouble shooting a low oil pressure issue. I replaced the sending unit then installed a mechanical gauge found out there is a 10 pound difference but still wasnt happy with it factory unit 10 pounds lower. I decided one day to break her out of the garage and the plastic line going to the mechanical guage got to close to the wrapped headers and melted. Then a fire broke out. I was lucky because I race her and had a extinguisher in the car but it still tore some stuff up. Pics below.
Last edited by Preston99WS6; 12-02-2011 at 07:57 AM.
12-02-2011, 06:04 AM
#2
The fire was a bad day so the car sat for awhile in the garage and I decided to pull the motor to figure out the cause of the oil pressure issue and to do the repairs. Let me tell you pulling the motor from the top is a real pain. Had a short engine hoist so I had to go from the side, set the motor down on the k member then go to the front. Not to mention it wasn't coming out with the transmission. So that went out the bottom.
12-02-2011, 06:08 AM
#3
Got the motor on the stand turned it over and pulled the oil pan. And guess what I find wrong with the built LQ9. Turns out the builder never bolted the oil pump pickup tube to the oil pump. And the main bearings are trashed. Another pic of the carnage of the fire with the engine out of the bay included. Crank was going to the machine shop.
12-02-2011, 06:21 AM
#4
So while the motor was out I started working on repairing the car from the fire damage. and standing up the radiator. Decided to use the griffin 1-55241-X and got plenty of info from the standing up your radiator forum. One of the members asked why no one had made the upper core support removable so I decided to take that on so the motor could be dropped in from the top with the transmission making my life a lot easier. I made plates to and welded them to the upper core then drilled holes through them to make the core removable turned out pretty good. Couldnt find a good deal on set of 4 coil packs with the wiring harness so I bought pigtails off of ebay and single coils to repair the driver side coil set. Ended up costing me like 45 dollars to replace two coils and repair the wiring harness.
12-02-2011, 06:29 AM
#5
Got the crankshaft back from the machine shop. Ordered clevitte 77 H series bearings for the bottom end. Painted the block, Intake, oil pan and transmission. and started assembling the motor. Decided to go with a front mount turbo and move my garrett GT76 .96 A/R turbo to the front of the car and do away with the STS remote mount.
12-02-2011, 06:34 AM
#6
Pulled the motor off the stand, installed the clutch and butted the transmission to the motor. And dropped it in from the top. All together only had one slight issue. If you leave the passenger side motor mount bracket attached to the K member you wont clear the starter hump on the bell housing so I had to pull the 4 bolts and get it out of the way move the motor back a few inches and reinstall.
12-02-2011, 06:57 AM
#7
Installing the Ebay PTK clone is a pain in the rear. It doesnt come with instruction the wastegate flange has to be re-worked on the O2 bung in the passenger side will hit the starter. You have to fix all of this before installing. Also the bolt hole for the very front on the driver side flange where it bolts to the head had to be drilled because it wouldn't line up. I figured all of this out before the motor went in and corrected it all. I mocked up the kit on the stand then tightened down the v band on the turbo and tightened down the turbo pulled it off and took the setup to a good exhaust shop local in the area. with my wastegate and he set up the wastegate flanges to work with my tial sport gate. Also another problem I didnt take a pick of it but. the wastegate flange on the downpipe side is not drilled to the pipe size. Mine had a .5" or smaller hole and a 1" pipe so this can pose a serious problem if you go for big power. because that little hole wont flow worth a crap.
Its a tight fit but it will work. Trail and error taught me that the downpipe has to be assembled first then set in the car. Followed by the header on the driver side I had to move the abs module it can then be re-installed. Also had to take out the coolant temperature sensor and push it in from front to back. Then take the piece with the turbo flange attach the 2.5" to 2" short crossover losely then push it it from the front of the motor toward the rear the smaller pipe will have to be routed under the motor mount. I had quite a hard time getting it in the car had to push really hard but it slipped in. Then attach the flange/Y to the driver header. Install the passenger header. then the crossover pipe. You may have to notch the v band depending on which ones you use. I opted to upgrade them. I just spent the better part of about 8 hours getting this thing together still havent tightened every thing down yet. I also installed steel braided power steering lines as the stock one might work with a lot of work but I didnt want to chance them breaking and spraying down a hot wrapped turbo manifold. Dont want another fire.
I mocked up a picture with the stock power steering lines to show that they just wont work well.
Its a tight fit but it will work. Trail and error taught me that the downpipe has to be assembled first then set in the car. Followed by the header on the driver side I had to move the abs module it can then be re-installed. Also had to take out the coolant temperature sensor and push it in from front to back. Then take the piece with the turbo flange attach the 2.5" to 2" short crossover losely then push it it from the front of the motor toward the rear the smaller pipe will have to be routed under the motor mount. I had quite a hard time getting it in the car had to push really hard but it slipped in. Then attach the flange/Y to the driver header. Install the passenger header. then the crossover pipe. You may have to notch the v band depending on which ones you use. I opted to upgrade them. I just spent the better part of about 8 hours getting this thing together still havent tightened every thing down yet. I also installed steel braided power steering lines as the stock one might work with a lot of work but I didnt want to chance them breaking and spraying down a hot wrapped turbo manifold. Dont want another fire.
I mocked up a picture with the stock power steering lines to show that they just wont work well.
Last edited by Preston99WS6; 12-02-2011 at 08:00 AM. Reason: grammar
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12-02-2011, 07:06 AM
#8
How much power can a single walboro 255 with racetronics plug and play harness hooked up to a msd fuel pump voltage booster on stock lines/rails and 80lbm injectors support?
I pose the question because that is my current fuel set up. minus the 80lbm I just bought a set though and they are on the way. The car is tuned with the bosch green top 42 lbm injectors so I figure I will run the same fuel system with the 42s to break the motor back in then swap the injectors and see what I can get to.
Also I tossed my old plugs cleaning the garage and dont have the part number. Who in here has gone to autozone or advance and asked for a colder plug and had the guy behind the counter give you a deer in headlights look. So here is another question what plug should I run I know it should be colder but I need a part # to get them. Thanks
I pose the question because that is my current fuel set up. minus the 80lbm I just bought a set though and they are on the way. The car is tuned with the bosch green top 42 lbm injectors so I figure I will run the same fuel system with the 42s to break the motor back in then swap the injectors and see what I can get to.
Also I tossed my old plugs cleaning the garage and dont have the part number. Who in here has gone to autozone or advance and asked for a colder plug and had the guy behind the counter give you a deer in headlights look. So here is another question what plug should I run I know it should be colder but I need a part # to get them. Thanks
12-02-2011, 07:28 AM
#10
No replaced all of that last year trouble shooting the oil pressure issue before it caught fire Nov 2010. The Car just sat in the garage collecting dust until I got all the parts to rebuild the motor and move the turbo to the front/ Repair fire damage. Started about a month ago.
Last edited by Preston99WS6; 04-06-2012 at 09:35 AM.
12-07-2011, 08:25 PM
#11
So about six days of about 3-4 hours a day spent tweaking the hot pipes, specifically the down pipe had a lot of trouble getting it to clear the steering linkage. But finally got that done. Just got to finish routing the rest of the catback to the back. That should be easy though. Still waiting on the S60 to get here.
12-18-2011, 04:01 PM
#12
So finally got the car all together and took it out for a short ride to the gas station today. I thought that the STS didnt really have lag, boy was I wrong this thing is a monster now. Think I went a little aggressive on the clutch too, it has a lot of vibration when engaging and doesnt slip very well just got a few more issues to iron out.
Altenator is not charging, checked the wiring its fine so must mean it went bad. So its off to the auto parts store.
Think I need a restrictor on the oil supply, ended up installing the STS oil pump on the drain to help it. It helped but still seems to have too much oil and the turbo has a new seal to. I have the STS check valve installed but its straight 1/8 from a 4 A/N. What are your guys' thoughts. Turbo is a garrett GT76 .96 A/R journal bearing. Oil pressure is about 50PSI at idle hot. ported LS6 pump. Thats with a mechanical guage not the cluster.
What are your guys' thoughts on the restrictor.
Altenator is not charging, checked the wiring its fine so must mean it went bad. So its off to the auto parts store.
Think I need a restrictor on the oil supply, ended up installing the STS oil pump on the drain to help it. It helped but still seems to have too much oil and the turbo has a new seal to. I have the STS check valve installed but its straight 1/8 from a 4 A/N. What are your guys' thoughts. Turbo is a garrett GT76 .96 A/R journal bearing. Oil pressure is about 50PSI at idle hot. ported LS6 pump. Thats with a mechanical guage not the cluster.
What are your guys' thoughts on the restrictor.
12-19-2011, 08:40 PM
#14
I used the same turbo on the STS kit that I mounted up front its the STS garrett GT76 .96 A/R upgrade. 9 PSI 18 degrees of timing a 560"/560" 224/220 and a 117 lope sep angle cam 60 lbm injectors. Car put down 588 RWHP through a 10 bolt and 4.11 gears best 1/4 for me was 11.74 @ 126 MPH with a 1.8 60 on street tires not drag radials. There was a lot more left in it but I didnt want to break the rear as the car was my daily then. Car was tuned by Bret he works at DTP in Chesapeake, Va car was dynoed at Steen Racing in Virginia after break in. I Bought the kit used off another member on site 4 years ago he claimed to put down 715 RWHP.
01-15-2012, 11:19 PM
#16
Ill get a picture up later as I am out in town but I mounted the STS oil pump between/under the turbo/radiator and welded a bracket onto the lower core support. Never ended up using a restrictor. Wired the oil pump off the ignition via a 4 pin relay. Works fine but I want to incorporate a warning light so I now that it is working. There just doesnt seem to be enough height between the turbo drain and the pan and I used a 10 A/N drain line so it should have flowed enough volume but didnt. I was worried about it not being enough but it had to burn off the oil in the exhaust and that was where the oil smoke had been coming from, it has since stopped I just passed the 500 mile mark no problems just throuwing a P0121 which is a problem with the tune but that is about to get fixed soon.
Last edited by Preston99WS6; 01-28-2012 at 12:46 PM. Reason: added more
