suspension on a budget
12-12-2011, 09:58 AM
#5
For the poster- Do you have any suspension items now? If so what? How often does the car see the street?
The most inexpensive and best traction items are a set of lower control arms and relocation brackets. These items together work as a lift bar set up planting the tires harder into the ground.
Let us know and we are glad to help. Thanks!
Ryan
12-12-2011, 10:42 AM
#6
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No I don't have any suspension mods that I know of. Im not for sure but I think my car might have lowering springs. And this will be a weekend cruiser but I plan to take it to the dragstrip a few times next summer
12-12-2011, 10:45 AM
#7
Thanks for the reply, that helps a lot!
If you are lowered you will most likely experience worst traction. This is caused by the control arm angle in the rear which changes as the vehicle height changes. Correctly this angle with a set of relocation brackets would be a great first start!
Check out the two items I posted below, these would be the first mods I would try and they are the least expensive.
www.umiperformance.com/2015
www.umiperformance.com/2012
Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Ryan
If you are lowered you will most likely experience worst traction. This is caused by the control arm angle in the rear which changes as the vehicle height changes. Correctly this angle with a set of relocation brackets would be a great first start!
Check out the two items I posted below, these would be the first mods I would try and they are the least expensive.
www.umiperformance.com/2015
www.umiperformance.com/2012
Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Ryan
Trending Topics
12-12-2011, 08:49 PM
#10
I'm working on building my suspension as well. My car will be a nice weather dd/occasional track car. I think the consensus here would be shocks/springs no matter what you plan on doing. I put on koni 4/4 and some H&R lowering springs. Hella difference from the crap stock shocks and old springs I had. Next on my list is torque arm + relocation, panhard, and lcas + relocation. Then sway bars and SFCs.
12-13-2011, 04:21 PM
#11
Thanks for the reply, that helps a lot!
If you are lowered you will most likely experience worst traction. This is caused by the control arm angle in the rear which changes as the vehicle height changes. Correctly this angle with a set of relocation brackets would be a great first start!
Check out the two items I posted below, these would be the first mods I would try and they are the least expensive.
www.umiperformance.com/2015
www.umiperformance.com/2012
Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Ryan
If you are lowered you will most likely experience worst traction. This is caused by the control arm angle in the rear which changes as the vehicle height changes. Correctly this angle with a set of relocation brackets would be a great first start!
Check out the two items I posted below, these would be the first mods I would try and they are the least expensive.
www.umiperformance.com/2015
www.umiperformance.com/2012
Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Ryan
12-14-2011, 07:42 AM
#13
I read somewhere that you only need the relo brackets if you lower more than 1". If you use the SLP Bilstein package it drops 3/4" of an inch. Are the relocation brackets needed with such a small drop? I'd like to know because I'm going with this package and the UMI LCA/PHB package with a UMI torque arm.
12-14-2011, 07:50 AM
#14
I read somewhere that you only need the relo brackets if you lower more than 1". If you use the SLP Bilstein package it drops 3/4" of an inch. Are the relocation brackets needed with such a small drop? I'd like to know because I'm going with this package and the UMI LCA/PHB package with a UMI torque arm.
By changing the control arm angle and making it in a more aggressive angle downward you move the vehicles instant point which will force the rear tires harder into the ground. They are also referred to as anti-squat brackets. So on a stock height vehicle they work as a traction device, basically the same as a lift bar would.
On a lowered car the first hole in the brackets in most cases will place the control arm back in the factory angle as if the vehicle was not lowered. The second hole would add more aggressive angle to the control arm and do what I mentioned above.
So not only are they used as a control arm angle correction device but they are also used as a traction device.
I hope this helps!
Ryan
12-14-2011, 04:15 PM
#15
The relocation brackets will work on stock height and lowered vehicles.
By changing the control arm angle and making it in a more aggressive angle downward you move the vehicles instant point which will force the rear tires harder into the ground. They are also referred to as anti-squat brackets. So on a stock height vehicle they work as a traction device, basically the same as a lift bar would.
On a lowered car the first hole in the brackets in most cases will place the control arm back in the factory angle as if the vehicle was not lowered. The second hole would add more aggressive angle to the control arm and do what I mentioned above.
So not only are they used as a control arm angle correction device but they are also used as a traction device.
I hope this helps!
Ryan
By changing the control arm angle and making it in a more aggressive angle downward you move the vehicles instant point which will force the rear tires harder into the ground. They are also referred to as anti-squat brackets. So on a stock height vehicle they work as a traction device, basically the same as a lift bar would.
On a lowered car the first hole in the brackets in most cases will place the control arm back in the factory angle as if the vehicle was not lowered. The second hole would add more aggressive angle to the control arm and do what I mentioned above.
So not only are they used as a control arm angle correction device but they are also used as a traction device.
I hope this helps!
Ryan
12-15-2011, 03:51 PM
#17
EDIT. I don't mean to hijack your thread but as I was looking at the pictures to post I found this (See PIC) What is going on here and what do I need to do. I would have started another thread but didn't see the need to. I apologize if I needed to.
Last edited by Ronerik; 12-15-2011 at 04:19 PM.
12-16-2011, 07:53 AM
#18
I'll be honest, that is tough to say exactly what rear end brand that is. The weld in would be safest, either # 2010 or # 2011. #2011 is for Moser brand rear ends because they use thicker steel on there control arm mounts and they make the control arm mounts wider.
I hope that helps!
Ryan
I hope that helps!
Ryan