mechanicals of Stage 2.5 243 heads help
#1
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mechanicals of Stage 2.5 243 heads help
hey all, its been a minute since ive been on here. mainly figured out my problems through my mechanics. but now overseas and cant call them anymore. ive had good feedback from here before so hopefully it can help.
i have some PRC stage 2.5 heads with dual titanium valve springs, titanium retainers, chromoly rods, LS7 hydraulic roller lifters, and a TSP tsunami cam.
cam specs - 239/242 duration, 113 LSA, int. .647/ exh. .609
the springs are rated to .650, am i safe for a 6800 or even 7000 rpm?
do i need to buy titanium valves to reduce float?
and i will be running a 100 shot nitrous [wet shot, plate system] , retarding my timing 4 degrees, but with retarding timing, i dont want to smash a valve. advice please, and maybe any holes in my plan.
i have some PRC stage 2.5 heads with dual titanium valve springs, titanium retainers, chromoly rods, LS7 hydraulic roller lifters, and a TSP tsunami cam.
cam specs - 239/242 duration, 113 LSA, int. .647/ exh. .609
the springs are rated to .650, am i safe for a 6800 or even 7000 rpm?
do i need to buy titanium valves to reduce float?
and i will be running a 100 shot nitrous [wet shot, plate system] , retarding my timing 4 degrees, but with retarding timing, i dont want to smash a valve. advice please, and maybe any holes in my plan.
Last edited by 2002TransAmKid09; 12-24-2011 at 11:47 AM.
#2
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those heads should have the stainless valves, I would not worry about swapping to titanium valves, you should be good there. As long as you have enough PTV clearance. Your springs are what is gonna help with any valve float issues. As far as spinning the engine to 7k I would see where the dyno shows the power curve flatten out, thats where you want to spin it to, anything past that is not making additional power. I would start by pulling another degree of timing also, safer to pull 2.5 degrees for every 50HP Just to play it safe, and see what the engine likes... Put some colder plugs in for the spray also.
#3
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those heads should have the stainless valves, I would not worry about swapping to titanium valves, you should be good there. As long as you have enough PTV clearance. Your springs are what is gonna help with any valve float issues. As far as spinning the engine to 7k I would see where the dyno shows the power curve flatten out, thats where you want to spin it to, anything past that is not making additional power. I would start by pulling another degree of timing also, safer to pull 2.5 degrees for every 50HP Just to play it safe, and see what the engine likes... Put some colder plugs in for the spray also.
ARP head stud kit
MLS head gasket
heads/cam
chromoly rods --- i dont know what length i need though..
racetronix 255 fuel pump
42lb injectors
LS7 lifters
polyeurothane motor mounts
colder plugs
LS 90mm plate system with 15lb bottle, warmer, all that
then clutch wise maybe a ram stage 3 with hydraulic adjuster, T/o berring, pilot berring. with a stage 5 RPM transmissions rebuild
#5
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Yeah,,You are pulling timing with a controller right,, You do not want to pull it with mechanical retard, you should be installing your cam straight up. You will need some kind of controller to pull timing, I use the lingenfelter, there are other options out there.
those 6s are a good plug, but if you go any more spray up to the 7s.
those 6s are a good plug, but if you go any more spray up to the 7s.
#6
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Yeah,,You are pulling timing with a controller right,, You do not want to pull it with mechanical retard, you should be installing your cam straight up. You will need some kind of controller to pull timing, I use the lingenfelter, there are other options out there.
those 6s are a good plug, but if you go any more spray up to the 7s.
those 6s are a good plug, but if you go any more spray up to the 7s.
could i go with 7s and be ok? with the heads/cam set up i have seen people make between 430 and 460 to the wheels, so with the nitrous shot would the bottom end hold?