Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - Small Block Engine Q's

Hey guys i come from the LS world currently owning a C6 Z06 and i just bought a 69 camaro and looking to do a 383 stroker to the current 350 thats in there but i have a few questions, the car is strictly street weekend warrior want a nice lope at idle and want a healthy amount of power:

1. What eagle rotating assembly should i buy (what dish pistons?)
2. Should the rotating assembly be internally or externally balanced?
3. What cam is good for street but sounds nasty and makes decent power?
4. Should the block be decked? (If so to what height)
5. For a cam swap what needs to be changed? (rockers, springs, pushrods, lifters?)
6. What comp ratio is good for street on 91 octane?
7. Should anything be done to heads?

Don't want to spend a ton of money as this will be a temporary street motor while i track down and build an LQ4 stroker or an older BBC.

Thanks

How much are you looking to spend? My bottom end cost me $3500, and thats just the bottom end!

#1 For a street car, forged flat top pistons
#2 I would internally balance the engine
#3 what do you want more? Power or sound, you pretty much have to chose or get a cam that meets in the middle, but bad nasty lope will kill performance to a certain point.
#4 Depends what compression you want
#5 Depends on cam, roller cam will need different parts. (can get expensive)
#6 I wouldnt get over 10:1 compression, even then you may want 93 octane
#7 What heads are on it? know the flow numbers on the heads?

If you are going to just pull this engine out soon I wouldnt bother with it, because you can spend serious money trying to make a "decent" stroker engine

Why not be patient and start with the LQ4?

I agree I would swap an LS a stock LS will prob stillage more power than the built 383 run better and cost similar.

Or put a big block in it. Just bought one out of a boat, dual quad 4 bolt 454, rectangular port heads, forged crank and so on. Complete engine from air cleaner to pan, starter, distributor and even the coil for $3,500. Guy pulled it because the cam went flat, cleaned it up, put in a new cam and lifters and gave up on the boat. While I was looking I found a complete running 80s' Camaro, big block with Aluminum heads and a 5 speed for $5,000. It was kind of rough but had a new fiberglass 4" cowl hood.

Al 95 Z28

If I were building a 383, I would do the following:

1. 4340 forged steel internally balanced crank, 4340 forged h-beam rods
2. forged flat top piston, with valve reliefs
3. http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html use the the calculator that be downloaded at the bottom of the page to help with camshaft selection. Dynamic compression is very important. For a carbed street motor that will run well in 100 degree summer temps on pump gas, I would keep this to about 8.25:1. This is not to be confused with static compression. I would run a hydraulic roller camshaft. More power, and no maintenance.
4. I would deck the block and I would also have the mains align bored.
5. changing the cam, I would replace all of the parts that go with it, your tearing the engine completely apart anyway.
6. static compression really doesn't matter. It could be 15:1 and have 8:1 dynamic. Shoot for a maximum of 8:25:1 compression for 91 octane. I would also go with a 1 3/4" header and at least a 2.5" dual exhaust, preferably 3".
7. What kind of heads are on it? I've got AFR 195 eliminators on my 406 and they are awesome for the street. I would recommend a performer RPM air gap intake too, as well as a mechanical secondary 750 carb.

It seems as most people are doing a LS swap into a 1st gen. I would take the unusual route of sticking with a BBC.

i found a fresh rebuilt 454 with a cam that has not been fired yet is my only dilemma or i would buy it. thanks for the help!

i found a fresh rebuilt 454 with a cam that has not been fired yet is my only dilemma or i would buy it. thanks for the help!

The only problem with a BB first gen is the motor mounts and the right side has a problem with the pipes on the heater core. They used to sell a kit to turn the hearer core around so the pipes get out of the way. It was just a plate and was inexpensive. If you use small block motor mounts the engine ends up slightly off and you'll have header problems. Not a big deal as everyone did this in early 67 to make BB Camaro's. Then GM brought them out mid year and the mounts were available.

Al 95 Z28

I would go with a 400 sbc.

build wat you want to build dotn do wat others are telling you to do..


as for price i thinking your looking at for a decent 383 6500 and teh price goes down depending on wat you choose to use

okay so I've decided to ditch the LS engine for the camaro and just going to stick with a mild 383 for now i have a spare 350 so it won't cost much. Now question

1. WIll i have vibrations with this eagle kit because of external balance and my car has a manual trans (http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/B13004L/10002/-1?parentProductId=749647)
2. Will the OEM flywheel work with this without vibration or do i need a special one?
3. Is the eagle Rotating assembly above good enough for my application? (weekend cruiser want it to sound good and have nice amount of torque and reliable)

Thanks!

if it were me i would check into a howards longblock, cant beat the price, all forged rotating assembly & internally balanced

I would go with an OHIO Crank rotating assy.:

http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevsb_rotate.html

These guys are easy to talk to and will provide everything you need. And they sell direct to you, not some speed shop/store.

if it were me i would check into a howards longblock, cant beat the price, all forged rotating assembly & internally balanced


Link to howards please.

Al 95 Z28

If it's Howards cams, you can find it here:

http://howardscams.com/index.php/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.browse&category_id=325

call comp cams today to see what i needed for a cam change. The heads are the 193 castings he said to put in 26-915-16 springs. but when i go on comps website it says these are for LS motors. Confused :S