I want awesome 60' times w/ DR's....
03-16-2004, 12:35 AM
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I want awesome 60' times w/ DR's.... Just like the topic says. I've got a big day at the track in 3 weeks, and I want to be able to hook on my Nitto's. I haven't exactly had troubles with them, but I want to do better. The best I managed a couple weeks back was a 1.95 60'. I was only giving it half throttle though, being afraid of sending the tires up.
Anyway, about the car: the suspension is completely stock other than SFC's and a STB. Not lowered... nothing. It's also a daily driver, so I don't want to do anything extreme. I was thinking of getting some LCA's, but I'm not sure. I've noticed a little bit of wheel hop lately, but not much. Also, I wouldn't need reloc. brackets if it's not lowered, correct? But yeah, I'd just like to POSSIBLY get in the 1.80 range. Oh yeah, the car has the stock stall in for now, and the Nitto's are 275's, maybe 315's before I go back to the track.
Thanks for the help guys, and I'm hoping I didn't miss anything...
Anyway, about the car: the suspension is completely stock other than SFC's and a STB. Not lowered... nothing. It's also a daily driver, so I don't want to do anything extreme. I was thinking of getting some LCA's, but I'm not sure. I've noticed a little bit of wheel hop lately, but not much. Also, I wouldn't need reloc. brackets if it's not lowered, correct? But yeah, I'd just like to POSSIBLY get in the 1.80 range. Oh yeah, the car has the stock stall in for now, and the Nitto's are 275's, maybe 315's before I go back to the track.
Thanks for the help guys, and I'm hoping I didn't miss anything...
03-16-2004, 10:04 AM
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I've seen people report Nitto 60s down in the 1.6
range but I think this has suspension work behind
it. If you have any wheelhop then do the relocation
brackets. The bolt-ins are an easy driveway job,
hand tools and a Dremel (with the heavy-duty
cutoff wheels, to cut the welds on the brake line
brackets). Well, you need jackstands and a jack
too, but that's almost inevitable anyway.
A drag bag to bias the rear against passenger's
side torque lift may gain you a little more go
before you leave the one-wheel stripe (make it
two).
Those two things ought to set you back about
$200 (new) altogether.
I think smaller wheel, taller tire is supposed to
work better for the DRs (but don't take my word
for it). Get some dirty, wide, old 15" rims and the
tall rubber if these are to be track-only tires.
range but I think this has suspension work behind
it. If you have any wheelhop then do the relocation
brackets. The bolt-ins are an easy driveway job,
hand tools and a Dremel (with the heavy-duty
cutoff wheels, to cut the welds on the brake line
brackets). Well, you need jackstands and a jack
too, but that's almost inevitable anyway.
A drag bag to bias the rear against passenger's
side torque lift may gain you a little more go
before you leave the one-wheel stripe (make it
two).
Those two things ought to set you back about
$200 (new) altogether.
I think smaller wheel, taller tire is supposed to
work better for the DRs (but don't take my word
for it). Get some dirty, wide, old 15" rims and the
tall rubber if these are to be track-only tires.
03-16-2004, 05:54 PM
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Well, I guess I'll have to see what I can manage at MIR. I got my cutout installed today, and while I was at the shop, they had some new Spohn LCA's laying around, so I had them put those on too 