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First engine swap... come in and give me advice

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Old 01-06-2012, 08:51 PM
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Default First engine swap... come in and give me advice

Getting ready to do a 6.0 iron swap into my 2000 Camaro SS. I'm putting my 241 heads on it as money is a little low. I have a rod knock so really just need to get it in. So the only new bolts I should need is a crank Balancer bolt and head bolts correct? Those are the only tty bolts? I'm also putting in a 234/234 .595/.595 lift on a 112lsa. This engine will see boost eventually. Also is there any tricks I should know about to make my life easier. With the cam I will get comp pushrods, patriot dual gold springs. Getting arp head bolts also. Will be using ls9 head gaskets. Please give me advice. I tried this before and only got 1 person to reply. So please help me out.
Old 01-06-2012, 09:43 PM
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Sounds like you are right on track. If u plan on boosting the motor, why not just stud it now and be done with it?
Old 01-06-2012, 10:27 PM
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best thing i can tell you is do it with a lift!!! You "could" pull the motor from the top but in the time you spend doing it you could of already dropped the subframe out and made the job a piece of cake. I wasnt fortune enough to have one when i did it but if i ever do again i would pay a shop $300 or so just to use an empty lift on a slow business day...

Oh and yea the crank bolt and head bolts are the only torque to yield ones you have to work about just make sure you get the right size because some kits come with all the same length bolts where you are goin to need the kit with two small head bolts per side. And on the crank bolt do your self a favor and get an arp crank bolt because it make install a hell of alot easier.
Old 01-07-2012, 05:53 AM
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Thanks guys. I don't have a lift but I am pulling it from the bottom. My shortblock has main studs already. As well as compstar crank, compstar rods, and diamond pistons. It technically a 6.4L (390ci)
I'm putting head studs on it also. Are there any other bolts I should buy other then crank bolt and head bolts?
Old 01-07-2012, 07:02 AM
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Do you have all the proper hand tools to perform this build?
Old 01-07-2012, 11:35 AM
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Lmao I got a craftsmen toolset like 250 pieces but I can borrow what I need from friends
Old 01-07-2012, 12:11 PM
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Lift the body over the motor, take your time so you dont forget something.

Please get it tuned before you drive it.
Old 01-07-2012, 12:59 PM
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I already planned on getting a mail order tune from frost.
Old 01-07-2012, 02:34 PM
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Nice, that's what friends are for...
Old 01-07-2012, 02:39 PM
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You'll be adding around 160 lbs on the front end of the car, so new/stiffer springs will likely be necessary.
Old 01-07-2012, 03:22 PM
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It will just look meaner with the new stance haha
Old 01-07-2012, 03:57 PM
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Good luck with the build...and keep us updated!
Old 01-07-2012, 03:59 PM
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Thanks guys. Do you all know if shortblocks come with cam bearings installed usually? I haven't even taken my engine out of the crate because I have to move it again.
Old 01-08-2012, 09:15 AM
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Ttt...
Old 01-08-2012, 03:19 PM
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Every case with factory GM crate shortblocks I've seen, they had cam bearings already in place.
Old 01-08-2012, 04:54 PM
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^^Thanks... I hope mine does because I really can't afford to buy that tool tool set and that's really the 1 thing I can't borrow...
Old 01-08-2012, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by crainholio
You'll be adding around 160 lbs on the front end of the car, so new/stiffer springs will likely be necessary.
??? thought the difference between iron block and Al block was 65-70lbs.
Am I confused?
Old 01-08-2012, 05:10 PM
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FOR THE IRON 6LITER SWAP, youll havta use your ls1 oil pan, windage tray, sump pick-up tube, and harmonic balancer....you will also need to drill and tap a bolt boss on the block or an alternator mount if your using the stock location for the alternator.

all of the electronics are the same, so no problems there..other than named stuff above, itll pretty much be a straight forward swap.
Old 01-08-2012, 05:36 PM
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Thanks. I planned on using all the ls1 stuff stated above. Also I heard you don't need to drill and tap the hole and many people run the alternator fine without it? Is this true?
Old 01-08-2012, 11:09 PM
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you can get away without doing the drilling and tapping for the missing alternator bolt, most guysjust dont use it...even in drag cars


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