Gen 5 Camaro External Bolt-On Tech - Suggestions for Gen5 Camaro

I recently traded my Mustang (09) GT for a 2010 2SS/RS, 6.2L.
The car is all stock, a CPO car (4K original miles), Auto. I'm not looking to build a street racer, just something with a little more pep. My GT I did CAI, Flowmasters, and a SCT Tuner with Bama Tunes. I would like to do something similar with the SS. I have heard any of these changes to a Camaro will throw a Check Engine Light? I would appreciate suggestions, real world experiences anyone may have had doing these mods. I would like to keep the GM warranty in tact. The car is a "weekend" driver but has to pass Texas emission Inspection.
Thanks for your input.

Nice, how do you like the upgrade?
There are a ton of options to go with. The most basic which would wake up the car, improve throttle response, sound better, and maintain your factory warranty would be a cold air intake, cat-back exhaust, and VMAX throttle body. These would take you from about 320rwhp (which you have now) to about 340rwhp.
If you wanted to go a little deeper, and depending on your dealer would be ok with warranty (depending on dealer and repairs) you could add some long tube headers, high flow cats and a custom tune. These mods are perfectly usable with the first mods, and will take you to about 365rwhp.
Then there's the whole suspension side of things which will greatly improve your driving experience too.

Feel free to call, email or PM us anytime and we can see what your goals are and where you want to be.

- Jeremy http://www.moderncamaro.com/forum/images/smilies/chevy.gif

Thanks for the suggestions.
I'm liking the Camaro more, the more I drive it. Of course the GT wasn't much more than a motor and a set of tires. The Camaro definitely has more "creature comforts".
I was thinking CAI and maybe a pair of Flowmaster's or Magnaflows for starters.
I haven't played with anything GM performance wise since prior to the days of computers. I know with my HD's and the GT, allowing the engine to breathe better usually caused LEAN issues in the cruising and high RPM ranges, so a Tuner or Tuning was required. I'm concerned with getting into the same predicament with the SS? I am exploring the possibility of acquiring a second ECM for that purpose.
I will say the GT wasn't near as hard on my wallet as this SS appears to be. I purchased the very same FORD Racing CAI & Tuner as offered through Ford from American Muscle for the cost of a CAI for the SS. My Ford dealer didn't care where it came from as long as it was the same as Ford offered, they kept the warranty intact. 3 different Chevy dealers(including selling) have told me change anything and warranty is voided.
Thanks again for your input.

Nice, the 5th gen Camaro definitely is nice, I have a 4th and a 5th, and never drive the 4th anymore, because it doesn't compare in quality and comfort.

Very true with getting the engine to breathe better, an intake and exhaust will help that, will give you better fuel economy, more power, and better sound. The modern computers will sense the difference in airflow in and out, and will change parameters as needed, therefore a tune is not required. Even with long tube headers, you can get away without a tune, but will get a check engine light due to the catalytic converter testing differences, until you get it tuned.

Magnaflow makes some awesome exhausts that sound and perform great. We use the Magnaflow 3" Competition Series on most of the cars we do, and they sound spectacular with or without headers.

There are some really expensive cold air intakes out there, and frankly they are no better (and sometimes worse) than the good ones. We use Airaid on most of the cars we do, and absolutely love them. They are very high quality, they look great, they sound good, they aren't heat sinks, and they are relatively cheap; half the price of others that I would not let touch my Camaro.

We have some crazy priced JDP PerformerPacks available which gets you an excellent exhaust, intake, and VMAX throttle body, for a tad more than the price of an exhaust http://www.moderncamaro.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif. That would be the way to go, IMO, it will get you everything to make your car feel, perform, and sound great, without too much spent, and keeping your warranty intact.

Speaking of that, those dealers you talked to are idiots. An exhaust and intake will not void your warranty. When you get into tuning, then your warranty is in jeopardy. In order to not honor a warranty for basic bolt-ons, the dealer has to prove that the modification caused the problem, which having a properly installed intake and exhaust, will not cause. But ultimately it is up to the service manager, and if they continue to say the same thing, find a new dealership. There are many good dealers out there, but there are many bad ones as well. I've had parts of my suspension warrantied before, and I promise you, my suspension is not stock...

Feel free to call, email, or PM anytime!
- Jeremy http://www.moderncamaro.com/forum/images/smilies/chevy.gif

Exhaust wont add any hp. The factory catback is not restrictive. Headers, cai+tune will give good gains

ARH 1 7/8" headers, Halltech air intake and a Vmax throttle body. If its an Automatic trans don't bother with the Vmax throttle body, you won't like it. If you want more pep after that get the ADM scoop with the washer bottle replacement.

I have ARH headers with Borla S exhaust, CAI air intake with scoop and the Vmax and the only thing the service manager at the dealership said was "I like those headers who makes them". If you have the dealership do your oil changes and any low cost maintenance items that come up you wont have any warranty problems.

If you get a check engine light go to a dyno shop and they will adjust you sensors so I doesn't happen again. Mine has never popped up after I had a shop take care of it. I just got it Dyno tuned and I have an oil change Tuesday, I will let you know if the service manager says anything

Bump for the arh headers, I love mine.

You can always check this out. We took all of the guess work out of picking out the parts. If you don't feel like making the whole purchase you can always choose one at a time.


http://goodies-speedshop.com/i-7583348-5th-generation-camaro-stage-1-power-upgrade-450hp.html

Best bet are some solo high flow cats, no CEL or warranty issues, great sound [the way the car should have sounded] no drone and probably 18/18 to the wheels. You WILL feel the increase unlike an intake system. Pulley is a nice addition and you will feel it also maybe 8/8 to the wheels.

You can always check this out. We took all of the guess work out of picking out the parts. If you don't feel like making the whole purchase you can always choose one at a time.


http://goodies-speedshop.com/i-7583348-5th-generation-camaro-stage-1-power-upgrade-450hp.html

I take it the 450hp is at the crank and not rwhp?

Yes, most definitely crank hp.

There are some good header choices for less money, and they go on sale more often at a greater discount. The Goodies Speed shop guy's website says he sells Hedman headers but I couldn't find them on his site. They are a great header for the price.

XS Power makes a great header but cost a little more than the Hedman.

You don't need Stainless headers, coated mild steel headers work great if your just looking for a little pep and a better sound.

I had my oil changed and the service manager didn't say anything about the tune. He told me there was a recall on the program for the A/C system and that he would have to download it the NEXT time I come in. I took that as "flash your old tune back in before you come back". Maybe I'm wrong about his hint, but either way I know he is going to be inside my tune the next time I'm there.

Hedman headers can be found on the Goodies Speed Shop site at http://goodies-speedshop.com/search.html?q=Hedman

Hedman headers can be found on the Goodies Speed Shop site at http://goodies-speedshop.com/search.html?q=Hedman


I knew they were on your site some where. I've had internet problems for the last 3 days. Never get cricket.

He has Stainless 1 3/4" headman headers for a good price. Headman's been around for ever and have always made good headers at a fair price

I appreciate the ideas.
So far I have done the Axle-back Flowmasters. Tried leaving the Resonator on, but that sounded terrible and wasn't any noticeable change to driveability. So 24 Hrs later had the Resonator removed and man what a difference ! Sound is nice and definite improvement in driveability.
Still not ready to go the route of a Tune yet. I have a Brother who has been a Chevy Tech for over 20 years. He tells me the Tune isn't a big issue unless you have something like oil consumption problems. He said GM Engineering always wants to see the Tuning files first thing in a case like that, or major engine/Tranny problems. Supposedly the ECM records or differentiates between changes so they can identify changes. He recommends a spare ECM, leaving the stock one stock on the shelf and running the Tuned version with the replacement one. Which I may eventually go that route. I spent some time over at LMR last week and picked up a few ideas from those Guys.
Again Thanks for the info, and keep it coming. I'm still at the beginning of the learning curve on these cars, but trying to get a little further along the curve.
I'm looking at a CAI next. If LMR had had one in stock, it would have already been on the car. Looking hard at a "AirRaid" CAI at the moment.

We've sold and installed both K&N and Airaid. Both are very good and result in 10-20 additional HP. K&N is about $50 cheaper.

Airaid: http://goodies-speedshop.com/i-5860678-airaid-251-243-airaid-cold-air-dam-intake-system.html

K&N: http://goodies-speedshop.com/i-3607702-kn-filters-63-3074-air-charger-performance-kit.html

I haven't had a vehicle with Headers on it in about 20 years. I understand the reliablity has greatly improved since I last dealt with them. I had several vehicles back in the 80's that I ran both Hedman and Hooker headers on. It was always a constant battle with exhaust leaks. Either the head to header gasket or collector gaskets were always leaking. At 51 years of age I don't get up off the concrete floor as quick or as well as I use too ! LOL. So I'm likely to be a hard sell on headers at this point. But it may be something I will consider in the future. 2 Kids in college also puts a damper on the fun fund as well ! LOL.

I haven't had a vehicle with Headers on it in about 20 years. I understand the reliablity has greatly improved since I last dealt with them. I had several vehicles back in the 80's that I ran both Hedman and Hooker headers on. It was always a constant battle with exhaust leaks. Either the head to header gasket or collector gaskets were always leaking. At 51 years of age I don't get up off the concrete floor as quick or as well as I use too ! LOL. So I'm likely to be a hard sell on headers at this point. But it may be something I will consider in the future. 2 Kids in college also puts a damper on the fun fund as well ! LOL.


ARH and KooK's are your two top brands now for HP. If you want a Stainless header that you will never have a problem with exhaust leaks I would go with the XS Power Header, its made from 321 stainless and is more suited for higher temperatures than the 304 stainless the other companies use.

I just installed my roto-fab intake and jannetty tune to compliment my LT's and no cats. I don't care what anyone says this car is now stupid fast compared to stock and whats funny is I got 12.70's out of it stock. I have yet to install the air scoop and washer bottle relocation kit.
Come on spring!

I just installed my roto-fab intake and jannetty tune to compliment my LT's and no cats. I don't care what anyone says this car is now stupid fast compared to stock and whats funny is I got 12.70's out of it stock. I have yet to install the air scoop and washer bottle relocation kit.
Come on spring!

'
wow thats an awesome time for a bone stock car, was that with drag radials? how did u hook up at the track, looking to get a halltech intake and a catback for mine eventually

Bone stock down to the oil in the crankcase. 3200 rpm clutch slip to keep the rpm up. Clutch was not happy!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/glennster50/20111021_211941-1.jpg

I just installed my roto-fab intake and jannetty tune to compliment my LT's and no cats. I don't care what anyone says this car is now stupid fast compared to stock and whats funny is I got 12.70's out of it stock. I have yet to install the air scoop and washer bottle relocation kit.
Come on spring!

at what speed do you get traction?

at what speed do you get traction?

Its 55* so not much traction. I was going by 2/3 pull. 1st isn't usable.

you think you'll get 9s out of her

Don't be a jackass.

Lg motorsports has very good set of headers and exhaust and cai

Lg motorsports has very good set of headers and exhaust and cai

LG has NICE headers. Talk to me about your pulley, T-body and 3.90 gears. Worth it individually?

Exhaust wont add any hp. The factory catback is not restrictive. Headers, cai+tune will give good gains

The catback may not ad much HP, but from what I understand it's quite a weight reduction to go with aftermarket and who doesn't love the sound improvement? :D

Bone stock down to the oil in the crankcase. 3200 rpm clutch slip to keep the rpm up. Clutch was not happy!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/glennster50/20111021_211941-1.jpg

thats awesome bro for bone stock, very nice!!

wut tires did u have on there?

Stock tires then and now.

Stock tires then and now.

wow impressive, did u air them down at the track?

wow impressive, did u air them down at the track?

I was running the car in the 13 teens at 110 on the first 2 outings at 300 and 600 miles but could not get the hang of the launch. I let the rears down to 26 and fronts up to 42 but didn't help. I watched a few vid's and did research and most good drivers were holding RPMs up and slipping the clutch out. My last outing at 900 miles I held the rpm at 3200 and rode it out, I left the tires at stock pressure. went 13.00@110.8 then 1286@111.3 and then the 12.75. I think with more practice I could have maybe seen a 12.5 but that was it for the stock combo.

These cars rock when driven correctly.

LG has NICE headers. Talk to me about your pulley, T-body and 3.90 gears. Worth it individually?

All my parts wher put on all at same time so I don't know about individual results
But it all works good
11.85@117
Works for me
Car runs great

I was running the car in the 13 teens at 110 on the first 2 outings at 300 and 600 miles but could not get the hang of the launch. I let the rears down to 26 and fronts up to 42 but didn't help. I watched a few vid's and did research and most good drivers were holding RPMs up and slipping the clutch out. My last outing at 900 miles I held the rpm at 3200 and rode it out, I left the tires at stock pressure. went 13.00@110.8 then 1286@111.3 and then the 12.75. I think with more practice I could have maybe seen a 12.5 but that was it for the stock combo.

These cars rock when driven correctly.

All my parts wher put on all at same time so I don't know about individual results
But it all works good
11.85@117
Works for me
Car runs great


wow glenster thats great times, i knew these cars were capable of running 12s, i cant wait to get my 12, should be here in a month

very nice times, 430 to the wheels is insane!!

ARH and KooK's are your two top brands now for HP. If you want a Stainless header that you will never have a problem with exhaust leaks I would go with the XS Power Header, its made from 321 stainless and is more suited for higher temperatures than the 304 stainless the other companies use.

We have had great experience with Kook's headers on the installs we have done. 321 stainless is much better for high heat because of the alloy that it is made of.

XS power is very good, I have them as well!

We have had great experience with Kook's headers on the installs we have done. 321 stainless is much better for high heat because of the alloy that it is made of.


I know that's why I said it.

wow glenster thats great times, i knew these cars were capable of running 12s, i cant wait to get my 12, should be here in a month

very nice times, 430 to the wheels is insane!!

Most bolt on m6 cars can hit the 430 mark if you run an under drive crank pulley and have a good tuner. The average ls3 bolt on car without a pulley is usually around 415-420rwhp.

Dynos can vary greatly though...if you get a heartbreaker you may only barely surpass 400 with bolt ons (I have seen that happen as well)

But for the most part like I said...with the right bolt ons and a good tune 430-440 has been done many times.

The difference after headers and a tune was incredible...it felt like I added a cam lol. The cars have a lot of torque management when stock as well. Have your tuner get rid of it completely (most will for the most part without asking)

I can't stress the change after tune and intake, its hard to believe. I do know my 2000 Z28 ran 12.3's before the tune and 11.7 afterwards. Dyno went from 360 to 415 so tuning is a must when the package is finished.

Most bolt on m6 cars can hit the 430 mark if you run an under drive crank pulley and have a good tuner. The average ls3 bolt on car without a pulley is usually around 415-420rwhp.

Dynos can vary greatly though...if you get a heartbreaker you may only barely surpass 400 with bolt ons (I have seen that happen as well)

But for the most part like I said...with the right bolt ons and a good tune 430-440 has been done many times.

The difference after headers and a tune was incredible...it felt like I added a cam lol. The cars have a lot of torque management when stock as well. Have your tuner get rid of it completely (most will for the most part without asking)

I can't stress the change after tune and intake, its hard to believe. I do know my 2000 Z28 ran 12.3's before the tune and 11.7 afterwards. Dyno went from 360 to 415 so tuning is a must when the package is finished.

do u need to tune the car if u put a CAI on it?

do u need to tune the car if u put a CAI on it?

A tune even on a stock car will help a lot...but the warranty is voided. I would not waste the time, money or the warranty on a tune unless you at least have headers.

A CAI is just fine without a tune...it will not hurt the car. You can pretty much do all bolt ons besides headers without having to worry about a tune.

do u need to tune the car if u put a CAI on it?

No not necessarily, We just dynoed a ls7 z06 the other day with the air raid kit installed on it and found 30rwhp after the first pull. You can use a handheld programmer to get yourself a little bit more than just the cold air alone. Diablosport has tunes specifically for vehicles with air intake kits installed.

do u need to tune the car if u put a CAI on it?

No, but I think the real benefits are not realized until its tuned. You may have btter throttle response.

A tune even on a stock car will help a lot...but the warranty is voided. I would not waste the time, money or the warranty on a tune unless you at least have headers.

A CAI is just fine without a tune...it will not hurt the car. You can pretty much do all bolt ons besides headers without having to worry about a tune.

No not necessarily, We just dynoed a ls7 z06 the other day with the air raid kit installed on it and found 30rwhp after the first pull. You can use a handheld programmer to get yourself a little bit more than just the cold air alone. Diablosport has tunes specifically for vehicles with air intake kits installed.

No, but I think the real benefits are not realized until its tuned. You may have btter throttle response.


Ok cool, wow 30rwhp is good, would that be around the same for a Camaro?
Looking at the Halltech ones

Ok cool, wow 30rwhp is good, would that be around the same for a Camaro?
Looking at the Halltech ones

Halltech is your best option for a air intake. ADM, Cold Air Inductions and Halltech are the top three. Halltech is the only one out of those 3 that has a plastic tube and an inverted tip air filter. The other 2 have aluminum tubes that are coated, the coating doesn't do anything despite what you might hear. I have a CAI so I'm basing my opinion off personal experience. I had to install a piece of pipe insulation over my tube to bring down the air temp to the engine and reduce the under hood air temp. The bare tube is like a flame thrower.

Get the Roto-Fab washer bottle replacement and the ADM scoop. You should see an increase of 18rwhp with any of those 3. They did not get 30rwhp more just from an air intake, 15rwhp to 18rwhp is the most you will ever see

yeah you won't regret it, intakes make shit stoopid fast

Ok cool, wow 30rwhp is good, would that be around the same for a Camaro?
Looking at the Halltech ones

That was for the ls7 motor. We just used that as an example of what one can expect for gains if the factory air box is somewhat restrictive.

Halltech is your best option for a air intake. ADM, Cold Air Inductions and Halltech are the top three. Halltech is the only one out of those 3 that has a plastic tube and an inverted tip air filter. The other 2 have aluminum tubes that are coated, the coating doesn't do anything despite what you might hear. I have a CAI so I'm basing my opinion off personal experience. I had to install a piece of pipe insulation over my tube to bring down the air temp to the engine and reduce the under hood air temp. The bare tube is like a flame thrower.

Get the Roto-Fab washer bottle replacement and the ADM scoop. You should see an increase of 18rwhp with any of those 3. They did not get 30rwhp more just from an air intake, 15rwhp to 18rwhp is the most you will ever see

That was for the ls7 motor. We just used that as an example of what one can expect for gains if the factory air box is somewhat restrictive.

gotcha, still not a bad increase at all, how much is the rotofab and the adm scoop?

gotcha, still not a bad increase at all, how much is the rotofab and the adm scoop?

The Roto Fab washer bottle is about $95 and the ADM scoop is $75.

Get the washer bottle replacement for sure. It frees up the space below the air intake so cold air can be pulled in from the ground. The scoop is easy to install

The 1st thing I would do to a 5th gen is put gears in it. Especially if it's a 6sp. 4.33's would work nice with the tall ass 20's on it.

The 1st thing I would do to a 5th gen is put gears in it. Especially if it's a 6sp. 4.33's would work nice with the tall ass 20's on it.

I don't understand why I don't hear of more people trying this.

The 1st thing I would do to a 5th gen is put gears in it. Especially if it's a 6sp. 4.33's would work nice with the tall ass 20's on it.

True if you are staying at bolt on power levels. If you are staying with the stock differential 4.33's and a sticky tire wouldnt be the most reliable set up.

From what I have gathered the AAM 3.91 gears are the best all around and the strongest when used on the stock differential. After about 500-550 rwhp one is going to want the 9 inch irs set up or the new 12 bolt irs hammerhead set up that is on the horizon from the driveshaft shop. Though automatic cars can get away with the stock differential at higher power levels than the stick.

Not sure If I will do an upgraded stock diff (billet caps, cover, aam gears, posi mod and axles) or the hammerhead set up. I will be h/c and in the ballpark of 520 rwhp...with an m6. Borderline for sure....but I dont track very often. You will have less drivetrain loss with a stockish diff set up and be faster on the street but not as good for the track. Not sure what I will do yet.

$200 gear changes are history and the 4.10's are getting a rap for breaking easy. These cars really need a set of at least 4.10's, I can trap at 111 in 3rd and hit the limiter a car length from the cone.
I just bought the Jannetty scoop and washer bottle kit for $135

$200 gear changes are history and the 4.10's are getting a rap for breaking easy. These cars really need a set of at least 4.10's, I can trap at 111 in 3rd and hit the limiter a car length from the cone.
I just bought the Jannetty scoop and washer bottle kit for $135

Richmond updated their gears. The new 4.11 ratio richmonds are supposed to be stronger. But yeah the original 4.10's were not very good from what I gathered. And with 4.33's you are just asking for trouble IMO.

The AAM 3.91's are supposed to be factory quiet and stronger than the richmonds. My car is a daily driver and I have poly diff mounts...worried that the richmonds may be too noisy among other reasons.

What are the gear ratios for an m6 5th gen? And what is the stock tire height, 28"?

What are the gear ratios for an m6 5th gen? And what is the stock tire height, 28"?

275/40/20= 28.66

TR6060 six-speed manual (SS)

First: 3.01
Second: 2.07
Third: 1.43
Fourth: 1.00
Fifth: 0.84
Sixth: 0.57
Reverse: 3.28
Final drive ratio: 3.45

275/40/20= 28.66

TR6060 six-speed manual (SS)

First: 3.01
Second: 2.07
Third: 1.43
Fourth: 1.00
Fifth: 0.84
Sixth: 0.57
Reverse: 3.28
Final drive ratio: 3.45

Wow, I can't believe they put a 3.45 final drive in it. MPG is the obvious answer, but a 4.10 would be a nice factory option. Playing with a gear calculator I agree with Hio, a 4.10 or 4.33 would help the 5th gen out a lot. Hopefully the aftermarket can get you guys some more durable options asap.

The gearing is the biggest thing holding those cars back. That and the couple it with those heavey ass 20's and you find there is ALOT of room for improvement. I bet with gear and proper wheel tire selection those cars could pick up .5 in the qtr.

The gearing is the biggest thing holding those cars back. That and the couple it with those heavey ass 20's and you find there is ALOT of room for improvement. I bet with gear and proper wheel tire selection those cars could pick up .5 in the qtr.

We will see soon
Im going to put some weld rt on the car for the track

Maybe some mid low 11s with bolt ons

True if you are staying at bolt on power levels. If you are staying with the stock differential 4.33's and a sticky tire wouldnt be the most reliable set up.

From what I have gathered the AAM 3.91 gears are the best all around and the strongest when used on the stock differential. After about 500-550 rwhp one is going to want the 9 inch irs set up or the new 12 bolt irs hammerhead set up that is on the horizon from the driveshaft shop. Though automatic cars can get away with the stock differential at higher power levels than the stick.

Not sure If I will do an upgraded stock diff (billet caps, cover, aam gears, posi mod and axles) or the hammerhead set up. I will be h/c and in the ballpark of 520 rwhp...with an m6. Borderline for sure....but I dont track very often. You will have less drivetrain loss with a stockish diff set up and be faster on the street but not as good for the track. Not sure what I will do yet.


If you have a manual the 3.91 gears are the best for the quarter mile. AAM makes better gears than Richmond, even if Richmond has improved I would let someone else find out if it was true. Most like 4.11's for the street. That could be because they never tried the 3.91's.

Very few people are running the 3.91's because they are relativity new, but the people who are using them love them.

If you have an Automatic the 3.70's are the best set up. I kind of think the 3.45's might be better on an Auto for the quarter mile if you have 600rwhp or more, but I have never driven an Auto with 3.45's. I have drive an Auto with 3.70's pushing 700rwhp and it felt like it got a little flat at the end of the quarter. Also it was hard to get traction until 40mph or 50mph with the 3.70's

FWIW, I had 4.33's and loved them for the 300-400 miles they lasted. I'm done pissing money away on the stock differential. Going to place an order for the 9" within the next month and it's going to have a 4.30 gear.

If you have a manual the 3.91 gears are the best for the quarter mile. AAM makes better gears than Richmond, even if Richmond has improved I would let someone else find out if it was true. Most like 4.11's for the street. That could be because they never tried the 3.91's.

What makes the 3.91 a better option over the 4.11 at the strip? What rpm are you trapping at in 4th gear with the 3.91?

FWIW, I had 4.33's and loved them for the 300-400 miles they lasted. I'm done pissing money away on the stock differential. Going to place an order for the 9" within the next month and it's going to have a 4.30 gear.

Let me know how this goes cause I'd like 2 upgrade to a 9 with 430

We will see soon
Im going to put some weld rt on the car for the track

Maybe some mid low 11s with bolt ons

Good luck man! You are running awesome times for being on 20s still... I hope I run that after my cam and some nittos :eyes:

Good luck man! You are running awesome times for being on 20s still... I hope I run that after my cam and some nittos :eyes:

Thanks

I hope that it will get a lil faster yet as it only has 5k miles on it

I bought it for the wife and kids to have fun with and a excuse for me to have a fast car ... Lol. Didn't think it would b this fast

I want to take some weight out of it. Stuff I can unbolt and put back on
What can I take off? Anyone know?
Seats.. Etc


The trick to running a good time in these cars is all in the 60ft

What makes the 3.91 a better option over the 4.11 at the strip? What rpm are you trapping at in 4th gear with the 3.91?


I should clarify, it was a six speed transmission. I wasn't thinking some of you had 4 speeds, sorry.

I should clarify, it was a six speed transmission. I wasn't thinking some of you had 4 speeds, sorry.

They are both 6speeds

Auto and manual

I should clarify, it was a six speed transmission. I wasn't thinking some of you had 4 speeds, sorry.

I knew you were talking about a six speed manual, but with a 3.91 gear that puts you in 4th gear as you cross the 1/4mi mark, does it not? I'm just a little confused as to why you believe a 3.91 is better than a 4.11 or 4.33 for the strip. I'm not being critical, just inquiring.

The Roto Fab washer bottle is about $95 and the ADM scoop is $75.

Get the washer bottle replacement for sure. It frees up the space below the air intake so cold air can be pulled in from the ground. The scoop is easy to install

thats not bad at all, easy to install too?

thats not bad at all, easy to install too?

Both are easy to install. The bottle washer is really fast. Let them know what kind of air intake you have because there are adapters for the CAI intake and there might be some for others.

The scoop is a little more difficult, you have to jack the car up and cut a small piece off the shroud by the radiator with a die grinder or dremmel. I didn't believe the BS about the scoop when I heard about it so I built one myself and it does work well. Its like ram air, the faster you go the more HP you gain. Here is a pic of the one I built. Its made out of Aluminum so it isn't as heavy as it looks.

They are both 6speeds

Auto and manual

I know both Gen 5 Camaro transmissions are 6 speeds, I was referring to some of the members who don't have Gen 5's that might have 4 speeds.

I knew you were talking about a six speed manual, but with a 3.91 gear that puts you in 4th gear as you cross the 1/4mi mark, does it not? I'm just a little confused as to why you believe a 3.91 is better than a 4.11 or 4.33 for the strip. I'm not being critical, just inquiring.


I have an Auto, the only Gen 5 car I have driven with a manual is a friend of mines 800rwhp monster. He had 4.11's and recently went to 3.91's, the track doesn't open up for a few months so I can't tell you the time difference but he's not having the problems with traction as much as he did with the 4.11's

Gear ratio and rwhp go hand in hand. What rwhp are you at right now? Another thing that's a factor is what kind of forced induction you have. If you have a whipple or maggie you will like the 3.91's more than the 4.11's for the quarter mile.

As far as what gear I was in with his car, I was well into 6 gear with 4.11s (not my car so I didn't want to go too high on the rpms) so I can't see the 3.91's making that big a difference there. It was traction that made him go to the 3.91's, he has a maggie for force air and they give punch right from the start. He is having a hard time getting traction when he launches even with suspension mods and Nitto NT05'R'S

Both are easy to install. The bottle washer is really fast. Let them know what kind of air intake you have because there are adapters for the CAI intake and there might be some for others.

The scoop is a little more difficult, you have to jack the car up and cut a small piece off the shroud by the radiator with a die grinder or dremmel. I didn't believe the BS about the scoop when I heard about it so I built one myself and it does work well. Its like ram air, the faster you go the more HP you gain. Here is a pic of the one I built. Its made out of Aluminum so it isn't as heavy as it looks.

very nice, it looks good, ill let u know wut kind of CAI i go with

.... If its an Automatic trans don't bother with the Vmax throttle body, you won't like it. ...

Whats the problem using a VMAX TB with a automatic transmission? Thanks.

Whats the problem using a VMAX TB with a automatic transmission? Thanks.

I bought a VMAX throttle body and did not like it. VMAX has an outstanding customer service policy. I sent them my original throttle body and told them I wanted that one ported and sent back to me and they did. When I got my original throttle body back I was pleased with it.

I think it has something to do with the VVT system. Most of the time when someone with a automatic buys a VMAX they either don't like it or don't notice any difference.

The VVT system reads the throttle body to anticipate where the cam should be. The system must be calibrated to that throttle body and when you put a different throttle body on it you throw the system off. That's my theory, I have no proof

Let me know how this goes cause I'd like 2 upgrade to a 9 with 430

Hey JD racer, the order was placed this morning for the DSS 9" kit with one change.....I went 4.56 instead of 4.30. I'll keep you posted for sure....can't wait to get it to a track.

Hey JD racer, the order was placed this morning for the DSS 9" kit with one change.....I went 4.56 instead of 4.30. I'll keep you posted for sure....can't wait to get it to a track.

Sweet

Let me know when u get it installed
I'd like to take a ride

If u still have stock size tires 28.5 in tall
Your 4.56 will be around a 4.26 gear

When u go to the track
If u don't have. Sticky tire u can us my stockers with m/t dr

Sweet

Let me know when u get it installed
I'd like to take a ride

If u still have stock size tires 28.5 in tall
Your 4.56 will be around a 4.26 gear

When u go to the track
If u don't have. Sticky tire u can us my stockers with m/t dr

Yup, the taller tire is why I went ahead with the 4.56. Thanks for the offer on the m/t's, I may take you up on that. What size are they?

Yup, the taller tire is why I went ahead with the 4.56. Thanks for the offer on the m/t's, I may take you up on that. What size are they?

I think 305/35 20
same height as stock
Lil 2 wide for stock rim but ther ok

The stock size is actually shorter and I diidnt want car to set lower in rear than the front