Header and Y pipe install questions (F-body)
01-08-2012, 09:19 PM
#1
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Header and Y pipe install questions (F-body) Hey guys, Just recently bought a set of SLP LT's and am going to do my install in about another month but would like to get the rest of my stuff purchased first and have quite a few questions in the meantime. feel free to answer 1 or all, any help is appreciated
1. What gasket should I use for the headers?
2. Im considering buying electric cutouts or manual cutouts (havent decided yet but likely to go with electric).Any advice on which brand to buy of either for any specific reasons
3. I will most likely be using cats.We have emissions in my state but its only from the OBD 2 scanner. My questions is concerning y pipes though. I know the SLP stuff will fit but am unsure of others. One person told me the Texas speed catted y would fit but have not been able to find any info on that? What brands y pipes other than SLP will fit the SLP headers if any.
4. If I decide to go with a ory (and then no cutouts therefore) what are the drawbacks? Can I expect a lot of popping without cats?
5. Whether I go with ORY or cats/cutouts, what should i do concerning the rear o2 sensors? simulators or have them tuned out?
6.motor/trans mounts? Seems like a lot of people do 1 or both when installing headers and wondering if I should really do it and how much of a pita they are. my fbody is a 98 with 115,xxx miles on it btw
7.SLP install? I have heard horror stories from a lot of people about grinding on k member and adjusting motor mounts/lifting motor to install but SLP claims a direct fit with no adjusting necessary and some have backed that up so wondering if its really is direct fitment or maybe people do not know what they are doing when installing?
8. I bought the headers with the AIR and EGR so i was planning on running them both but seems a lot of people suggest having them tuned out when they do the rear o2's? If i do not need to tune them out would their be any advantages/disadvantages to doing so?
9. Should I do plugs and wires at the same time. suppose it would be easier and most seem to do it but my plugs only have about 9xxx miles on them so dont really need to be replaced yet? is it that much easier doing it at the same time?
-Sorry I have so many questions but just want to get things cleared up so when I get it up on the lift its as simple and easy as possible and so that I have everything ready to go. Im already eager to get these things on and if I have to look at the car on the lift for more than a day because of not having everything im going to be going insane.lol
1998 Camaro Z28
A4, 3.73 rear, SLP lid
SLP LM1 catback
1. What gasket should I use for the headers?
2. Im considering buying electric cutouts or manual cutouts (havent decided yet but likely to go with electric).Any advice on which brand to buy of either for any specific reasons
3. I will most likely be using cats.We have emissions in my state but its only from the OBD 2 scanner. My questions is concerning y pipes though. I know the SLP stuff will fit but am unsure of others. One person told me the Texas speed catted y would fit but have not been able to find any info on that? What brands y pipes other than SLP will fit the SLP headers if any.
4. If I decide to go with a ory (and then no cutouts therefore) what are the drawbacks? Can I expect a lot of popping without cats?
5. Whether I go with ORY or cats/cutouts, what should i do concerning the rear o2 sensors? simulators or have them tuned out?
6.motor/trans mounts? Seems like a lot of people do 1 or both when installing headers and wondering if I should really do it and how much of a pita they are. my fbody is a 98 with 115,xxx miles on it btw
7.SLP install? I have heard horror stories from a lot of people about grinding on k member and adjusting motor mounts/lifting motor to install but SLP claims a direct fit with no adjusting necessary and some have backed that up so wondering if its really is direct fitment or maybe people do not know what they are doing when installing?
8. I bought the headers with the AIR and EGR so i was planning on running them both but seems a lot of people suggest having them tuned out when they do the rear o2's? If i do not need to tune them out would their be any advantages/disadvantages to doing so?
9. Should I do plugs and wires at the same time. suppose it would be easier and most seem to do it but my plugs only have about 9xxx miles on them so dont really need to be replaced yet? is it that much easier doing it at the same time?
-Sorry I have so many questions but just want to get things cleared up so when I get it up on the lift its as simple and easy as possible and so that I have everything ready to go. Im already eager to get these things on and if I have to look at the car on the lift for more than a day because of not having everything im going to be going insane.lol
1998 Camaro Z28
A4, 3.73 rear, SLP lid
SLP LM1 catback
01-09-2012, 11:49 AM
#2
Ditch the air and egr..get them welded shut or get.block off plates fitted to the openings
Motor mounts would be wise. If you didn't you will regret it later.
You can just reuse your stock gaskets
Depends how much you want to spend on cutout. DMH has best warrranty. QTP has a quality piece. One cutout in the I pipe will be fine. I have dual DMH low pro cutouts awaiting install. For the money cant beat a manual cutout, but gets tiring crawling under car over and over. I like open/close with a flick of a button. Look up a 3" cutout
I see you have a lm1. If you plan on doing Lt/ory pepare for your ears to bleed. It will be insanely loud. Some can handle the drone better than others, but a lot of people swap the resonator for.a.bullet like dynomax,magnaflow,Norma (dynomouth,magnamouth,borlamouth)... I swapped my lm1 resonator with a magnaflow bullet part# 14419 I believe
Motor mounts would be wise. If you didn't you will regret it later.
You can just reuse your stock gaskets
Depends how much you want to spend on cutout. DMH has best warrranty. QTP has a quality piece. One cutout in the I pipe will be fine. I have dual DMH low pro cutouts awaiting install. For the money cant beat a manual cutout, but gets tiring crawling under car over and over. I like open/close with a flick of a button. Look up a 3" cutout
I see you have a lm1. If you plan on doing Lt/ory pepare for your ears to bleed. It will be insanely loud. Some can handle the drone better than others, but a lot of people swap the resonator for.a.bullet like dynomax,magnaflow,Norma (dynomouth,magnamouth,borlamouth)... I swapped my lm1 resonator with a magnaflow bullet part# 14419 I believe
Last edited by DeLaRosa25; 01-09-2012 at 11:55 AM.
01-09-2012, 12:14 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
Hey guys, Just recently bought a set of SLP LT's and am going to do my install in about another month but would like to get the rest of my stuff purchased first and have quite a few questions in the meantime. feel free to answer 1 or all, any help is appreciated
1. What gasket should I use for the headers? you can try re-using the stock ones on it but I would advise getting a new set of GM MLS gaskets just in case (~$25 from ws6store.com)
2. Im considering buying electric cutouts or manual cutouts (havent decided yet but likely to go with electric).Any advice on which brand to buy of either for any specific reasons I believe common opinion is that QTP electrics are pretty good
3. I will most likely be using cats.We have emissions in my state but its only from the OBD 2 scanner. My questions is concerning y pipes though. I know the SLP stuff will fit but am unsure of others. One person told me the Texas speed catted y would fit but have not been able to find any info on that? What brands y pipes other than SLP will fit the SLP headers if any. Not sure of off the shelf fitment. You could get a custom fabbed one with hollow cats just for visual
4. If I decide to go with a ory (and then no cutouts therefore) what are the drawbacks? Can I expect a lot of popping without cats? I have ORY and the rasp is kind of bad if I sit at 2k rpm for a while but just normal driving there isn't much rasp or popping at all. Some popping at WOT when the car shifts but I also have intercooled exhaust tips which add to the popping a little i'm sure
5. Whether I go with ORY or cats/cutouts, what should i do concerning the rear o2 sensors? simulators or have them tuned out? Most ORY have O2 bungs even though they are useless. Just stick broken O2's or something in there or plugs. I have the other 2 O2s from the stock exhaust in mine just sitting there not connected to anything. A tune will tune them out so it will pass emissions from OBDII
6.motor/trans mounts? Seems like a lot of people do 1 or both when installing headers and wondering if I should really do it and how much of a pita they are. my fbody is a 98 with 115,xxx miles on it btw Only do poly motor mounts. DO NOT change the trans mount. It is not necessary and can cause problems. most people to MM's and keep the rubber trans mount. My MM's were a pain in the ***, longest part of the install for sure, but they help prop up the motor for better ground clearance.
7.SLP install? I have heard horror stories from a lot of people about grinding on k member and adjusting motor mounts/lifting motor to install but SLP claims a direct fit with no adjusting necessary and some have backed that up so wondering if its really is direct fitment or maybe people do not know what they are doing when installing? I have heard bad things about SLP header fitment, especially the older style. No install is the same. My ARH pretty much slid in. You may have to rock the engine to get them in though.
8. I bought the headers with the AIR and EGR so i was planning on running them both but seems a lot of people suggest having them tuned out when they do the rear o2's? If i do not need to tune them out would their be any advantages/disadvantages to doing so? Deleting them will save a little weight and they are pretty useless anyway. Other than saving weight and the buzzing from the AIR on startup there isn't really an advantage either way. But it does clean up the engine bay a little bit
9. Should I do plugs and wires at the same time. suppose it would be easier and most seem to do it but my plugs only have about 9xxx miles on them so dont really need to be replaced yet? is it that much easier doing it at the same time? Plugs would be a good idea, NGK V-Power TR55's are a good choice. Wires are not a must unless yours look like they are going bad. With only 9xxx miles on them you might not have to worry about the plugs though.
1. What gasket should I use for the headers? you can try re-using the stock ones on it but I would advise getting a new set of GM MLS gaskets just in case (~$25 from ws6store.com)
2. Im considering buying electric cutouts or manual cutouts (havent decided yet but likely to go with electric).Any advice on which brand to buy of either for any specific reasons I believe common opinion is that QTP electrics are pretty good
3. I will most likely be using cats.We have emissions in my state but its only from the OBD 2 scanner. My questions is concerning y pipes though. I know the SLP stuff will fit but am unsure of others. One person told me the Texas speed catted y would fit but have not been able to find any info on that? What brands y pipes other than SLP will fit the SLP headers if any. Not sure of off the shelf fitment. You could get a custom fabbed one with hollow cats just for visual
4. If I decide to go with a ory (and then no cutouts therefore) what are the drawbacks? Can I expect a lot of popping without cats? I have ORY and the rasp is kind of bad if I sit at 2k rpm for a while but just normal driving there isn't much rasp or popping at all. Some popping at WOT when the car shifts but I also have intercooled exhaust tips which add to the popping a little i'm sure
5. Whether I go with ORY or cats/cutouts, what should i do concerning the rear o2 sensors? simulators or have them tuned out? Most ORY have O2 bungs even though they are useless. Just stick broken O2's or something in there or plugs. I have the other 2 O2s from the stock exhaust in mine just sitting there not connected to anything. A tune will tune them out so it will pass emissions from OBDII
6.motor/trans mounts? Seems like a lot of people do 1 or both when installing headers and wondering if I should really do it and how much of a pita they are. my fbody is a 98 with 115,xxx miles on it btw Only do poly motor mounts. DO NOT change the trans mount. It is not necessary and can cause problems. most people to MM's and keep the rubber trans mount. My MM's were a pain in the ***, longest part of the install for sure, but they help prop up the motor for better ground clearance.
7.SLP install? I have heard horror stories from a lot of people about grinding on k member and adjusting motor mounts/lifting motor to install but SLP claims a direct fit with no adjusting necessary and some have backed that up so wondering if its really is direct fitment or maybe people do not know what they are doing when installing? I have heard bad things about SLP header fitment, especially the older style. No install is the same. My ARH pretty much slid in. You may have to rock the engine to get them in though.
8. I bought the headers with the AIR and EGR so i was planning on running them both but seems a lot of people suggest having them tuned out when they do the rear o2's? If i do not need to tune them out would their be any advantages/disadvantages to doing so? Deleting them will save a little weight and they are pretty useless anyway. Other than saving weight and the buzzing from the AIR on startup there isn't really an advantage either way. But it does clean up the engine bay a little bit
9. Should I do plugs and wires at the same time. suppose it would be easier and most seem to do it but my plugs only have about 9xxx miles on them so dont really need to be replaced yet? is it that much easier doing it at the same time? Plugs would be a good idea, NGK V-Power TR55's are a good choice. Wires are not a must unless yours look like they are going bad. With only 9xxx miles on them you might not have to worry about the plugs though.
01-14-2012, 02:30 PM
#5
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sadly enough this is honestly the first time since my original post ive had enough time to sit down and respond.lol I looked up DMH and better reviews and better pricing so deff think ill go with them. Motor mounts seem like a good idea too and potentially plugs/wires(ill check em out once I get it on the lift). I bought the correct headers for a 98-99 ls1 so Ill prolly just end up hooking up AIR and EGR. cheaper than having it welded shut and then I dont have to pay extra to have it tuned out.ill check out the WS6 store as id prefer to replace the gasket and might even get new header bolts as well.
As far as the y pipe Im thinking LT's to dual electric cutouts, custom y pipe (just bring both lines together after the cutouts) and then 1 high flow cat before the exhaust connects back into the LM1 catback. Any downfall to doing it this way? I considering using a y pipe off of the LT's and then putting a single elec cutout and then 1 cat into LM1 (saving money by buying just one cutout) but seems kind of pointless to have longtubes and then shove all that air together into 1 3" pipe before using a cutout. Opinions??
As far as the y pipe Im thinking LT's to dual electric cutouts, custom y pipe (just bring both lines together after the cutouts) and then 1 high flow cat before the exhaust connects back into the LM1 catback. Any downfall to doing it this way? I considering using a y pipe off of the LT's and then putting a single elec cutout and then 1 cat into LM1 (saving money by buying just one cutout) but seems kind of pointless to have longtubes and then shove all that air together into 1 3" pipe before using a cutout. Opinions??
