Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - SBC 383 was running now its not (help)

i have a c3 vette with a 383 stroker in it that is fairly new, only about 60 miles on it. motor was built by a company out in alabama. i was driving the car and it was running with no problems for some time. i backed it out of my garage and shut it off and repaired a transmission line that hooked up to the radiator, and tried to start it afterwards and no go. theres no clicking sound or anything just me turning a key and absolutley nothing happening. the battery reads 13 volts sitting around and when turning the key it reads 12 volts. when the key is turned on all the lights and gauges work. measured the voltage at the starter and it also reads 12 volts. we shorted the contacts on the starter as the car was powered on and the starter spun so i believe ( at least to my knowledge) the starter is ok. my friend suggested the starter solenoid but i dont know enough about ignition systems to figure out what is going on. any help or suggestions? its not related to my transmission repair i only touched the radiator and two clips comming off the radiator did not mess with anything else

just because a battery has 12 volts, doesnt mean it always starts the car. it requires CCA (cold cranking amps) to start. have the battery tested just to be sure. then go from there.

There are two wires to the starter, one is a large wire from the battery, the other is the wire from the key switch. Did you measure the small wire? If it has 12 volts the solenoid should "click" or pull in. Be sure to ground the black meter lead on the engine block, you may have a ground problem.

Al 95 Z28

There are two wires to the starter, one is a large wire from the battery, the other is the wire from the key switch. Did you measure the small wire? If it has 12 volts the solenoid should "click" or pull in. Be sure to ground the black meter lead on the engine block, you may have a ground problem.

Al 95 Z28

when this all first started i would turn the key and you could hear it click, then after a few tries it just stopped all together and now makes no sound at all. i think the battery may actually be it because about a month ago the same thing happened where it wouldnt crank or anything and it turned out that my power and ground wires to the alternator had broke off at some point and i had been driving a just battery alone for as long as it took to drain it to the point where it would not fire back up. we jumped it and drove it home ( 1-2 miles) on just battery then i repaired the wires to the alternator. ive driven it since then but just a 1/4 mile to the supermarket and the 1/4 mile back a few times. i think i did damage to the battery that may now have just taken its toll especially now that the temperatures have all fallen to the 30-40 just this week

well go the battery tested and the result was 12.40 volts and 628 CCA. the guy at advance wasnt sure if this was enough power to start even tho when shorting the starter it will spin but not crank. litteraly all it does is spin.

well go the battery tested and the result was 12.40 volts and 628 CCA. the guy at advance wasnt sure if this was enough power to start even tho when shorting the starter it will spin but not crank. litteraly all it does is spin.

Stop and re-group. Exactly what are you saying about the starter and what are you shorting? If you short the two big studs the starter will spin but not engage the flywheel. That's normal.

Al 95 Z28

i think i may have figured it out this morning. was looking for the little stupid things and found corrosion on the battery terminal connections. i cleaned them and scored them with a screw driver to expose bare metal and the car fired right up.