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1988 lsxfox finally finished

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Old 01-15-2012, 02:55 PM
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Default 1988 lsxfox finally finished

Details of the build will be posted later, any questions about future lsxfox builds I'll do my best to help out



so I bought this 1988 5.0 lx because it came pretty modded, ran great and came with a procharger. price was 3k after talking him down.

a good friend of mine owns calspeed in bakersfield ca and he has always done builds i fell in love with.

he gave me the inspiration to do this swap. so I sold motor trans and procharger for 3k and bought most of the parts for an lsx swap.

5.3 cast iron with 40k with 4l60e with low miles
conversion harness
mounts
camaro 2010 manifolds
b&m pro shift shifter
f body pan
f body radiator/fans/ trans lines.
etc.

anyways. when I installed the engine and trans instantly ran into a few problems.

motor sits too high even with a cowl hood.
im thinking tomorrow im going to grab the lower car intake with rails and injectors.

the alt was wrong and wouldnt even mount. but anyways its still too tall.
what bracket should I use for this set up to relocate the alt and where will it end up?

stock fuel lines, what do I need to connect them to lsx rails? all the build threads ive read they use SS lines from tank to engine. my budget didnt allow for that, if I have too so be it but id rather not at this point.

im using the 2010 camaro manifolds and it still hits my steering shaft.
I can move the motor slightly to more to the passenger side but still dont think its gonna be enough. are there extension with swivels or something I can run to fix this problem?

for now those are the problems im trying to over come, there will be more so thanks for the patience and no flaming or bashing im looking for advise here. thanks

eye candy:










Last edited by bakomack; 07-24-2012 at 10:08 PM.
Old 01-15-2012, 06:11 PM
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I think your motor mounts are part of the problem with the motor sitting too high. How much clearance do you have between the oil pan and steering rack? I kept mine to about 1/2" and just barely need a cowl hood to clear the throttle body.
Old 01-15-2012, 06:26 PM
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Steering rack to oil pan is right at 1"
There are 2 slots on my k member for mounts to slide into, I'm going to try putting the mounts in the rear slot to move the motor back 1.5ish" and then kinda nudge the motor more to the passenger side to see if I can clear the steering shaft at the manifold flange.
Old 01-15-2012, 09:15 PM
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Why dont you just grind the flange? Make it clear. That cast iron is plenty strong.
Old 01-15-2012, 11:06 PM
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It looks like I'd have to grind off more material than is there and I'd have an exhaust leak, I'd like to see if there is a way to lengthen my steering shaft to fit around the exhaust manifold flange
Old 01-16-2012, 01:52 AM
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Nice build.


What k member and mounts are you using?

What are you going to do about the driveshaft??
Old 01-16-2012, 08:45 AM
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That motor is sitting up way too high. Not only are you experiencing problems with manifold clearance but you may experience driveline angle issues resulting in nasty vibrations. I'd modify the motor mounts or change k-members to get the engine down to where it should be.
Old 01-16-2012, 10:37 AM
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Unsure of k member came on the car, using aluminum driveline from gto having it shortens and flanged for. 8.8

The motor sits only an inch above rack the Trans sits even on Trans member
Old 01-16-2012, 12:03 PM
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Stock Mustang steering shaft and power steering rack??
Old 01-16-2012, 12:48 PM
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Yes stock rack and steering shaft, if I could lengthen the steering shaft with another swivel it would clear fine. I'm going to move the motor back a few inches tonight and nudge it a little more to the passenger side. Should make enough room. Might even make the hood shut doing that as I believe it's hitting the top most edge of the throttle body
Old 01-16-2012, 03:26 PM
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AJE K MEMBER bro, 280 plus 65 for the mounts and enjoy, nice project man.
Old 01-16-2012, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JAX04
AJE K MEMBER bro, 280 plus 65 for the mounts and enjoy, nice project man.
Thanks for compliment, I moved to motor back to second slot on k member hood closes steering shaft should clear when I put column back in, going to have to modify trans member but no big deal.
I'm waiting for conversion harness to get injector plugs changed then starting wiring.

I'm going to use the f body cluster I was told I need a f body cluster pig tail and just re pin the plug to make the cluster Work. Anyone have info on this?

Oh and I'm staying DBW
Old 01-17-2012, 07:08 PM
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Does anyone know how to re pin the pig tail to use f body cluster
Old 01-17-2012, 08:16 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ow-inside.html
Old 01-17-2012, 11:12 PM
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Thanks for the link, will get me started but I would like to get a fully functional cluster all lights and gauges. Can it be done?
Old 07-24-2012, 01:00 AM
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Finished up the swap last week. Runs perfect.

I'd like to come back and add details to everything I had to do to make the swap work so if if anyone has any questions feel free to ask ill do my best to help people with their fox swaps
Old 07-24-2012, 06:48 PM
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Congrats on finishing your swap!
Old 07-24-2012, 07:38 PM
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Thanks it took me about 6 months to do, as soon as gauges are in gonna start Savin for cam/valve train
Old 07-24-2012, 08:45 PM
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what did you end up doing for gauges? Do you have any pics of the engine bay now? I'm gathering parts & info for my upcoming swap & I'm really curious about the gauges. Did the 2010 manifolds end up fitting?
Old 07-24-2012, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Nsty98LS1
what did you end up doing for gauges? Do you have any pics of the engine bay now? I'm gathering parts & info for my upcoming swap & I'm really curious about the gauges. Did the 2010 manifolds end up fitting?

2010 manifolds worked perfect plenty of Clarence and hug the block nicely.

For gauges I tried wiring up the f body cluster but didn't do something right so they didn't work.

Ended up biting the bullet and buying autometer ultra lite gauges with a cluster housing from Florida 5.0

Gauges haven't came in yet but I'll post a pic of the engine bay in a minute


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