Corvette Performance - [PROCEDURE] - Fast 92 Intake, and LS2 Throttle Body Install (C5 Corvette)

Guys:

I installed a new FAST 92mm Intake, and new LS2 Throttle Body

I wrote a procedure on the install on my web site.
www.ToqueZ06.com
Scroll down to "Fast 92 intake, and LS2 Throttle Body install"



Here are the pictures and descriptions from my web site.


Installing a FAST 92mm Intake Manifold, and a LS2 Throttle Body on the C5 Corvette

What I got to perform this job:

I got a new FAST 92mm Intake Manifold, and send it to SpinMonster for porting and painting flat black. SpinMonster also sealed the intake for me with the FAST provided gasket.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast01.jpg

I got a new LS2 Throttle body, and send it to SpinMonster for porting.(Not ported in picture)

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast02.jpg

I got a new LS2 throttle body wiring harness from Casper Electronics (PN 108115)

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast03.jpg

You're going to need all the hardware that ships with the FAST intake.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast04.jpg

You're going to need the following parts to run a new vacuum line to your intake coupler before your throttle body.
The LS1/LS6 Throttle body has a vacuum line already on it. The LS2 Throttle body's does not.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast05.jpg
http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast06.jpg

My driver's side valve cover has a Factory GM plug in it.
If you have a vacuum line in yours then you should run that line to the intake coupler also.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast07.jpg

You're going to need some silicone for the MAP sensor at the back of the FAST intake.
You're going to need some contact cement for the air line that goes to the coupler.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast08.jpg

You're going to need a throttle body Bypass for the coolant lines.
The LS2 Throttle Body does not have these coolant lines.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast09.jpg

You're going to need a 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast10.jpg

Before starting install.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast11.jpg

Remove the Negative (-) battery terminal.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast12.jpg

Remove both of the engine covers.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast13.jpg

Remove the Air intake from the front of the engine.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast14.jpg

Remove the Throttle body.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast15.jpg

Take note of the orientation of the lines on the catch can (or stock setup). Disconnect both lines at the intake.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast16.jpg

Use the 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool to remove the fuel line.
Take my advice and put rubber gloves over the open fuel lines so they don't spill out.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast17.jpg

Remove all 8 fuel injector connectors. Lightly push on the metal clip and they come off.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast18.jpg

Remove these grey clips by squeezing the back side of them.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast19.jpg

Remove this connector at the drivers firewall. Push on the white clip and it comes off.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast20.jpg

Remove 8 of the intake bolts. Leave the 2x under the firewall for the next step.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast21.jpg

Loosen and lift the 2x intake bolts under the firewall.
Put a tie wrap or tape once you lift them slightly.
The goal here is NOT to scratch the head sealing surface as you remove the intake.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast22.jpg

Disconnect the Grey connector on both sides of the intake.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast23.jpg

Disconnect the Brake booster line right at the Brake booster.
Its a lot easier than disconnecting it in the rear of the intake..

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast24.jpg

Best have a friend help on this part.
Gently life the intake and move it forward a little.
Reach behind it and disconnect the MAP sensor cable, and the 1/8" Vacuum line under the MAP.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast25.jpg

Clean and vacuum the entire area. Be careful not to scratch the head sealing surfaces.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast26.jpg

Tape off the head ports so that no dirt gets in them.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast27.jpg

Clean off the fuel injector tips gently.
Lightly oil the o-rings. It makes them slip into the new intake much easier.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast28.jpg

Remove the Brake booster line, and the MAP from the old intake.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast29.jpg

Use some of the RTV silicon gasket maker and coat the MAP sensor. Install in new intake.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast30.jpg

Install the brake booster line into the new intake.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast31.jpg

Replace the 10 valley cover bolts with the low profile bolts supplied with the FAST.
Replace one bolt at a time and torque to 18 ft/lbs.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast32.jpg

Lightly oil the 8 gaskets, and insert into the new intake manifold.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast33.jpg

Install the fuel rails. Gently push the injectors into the new intake.
Having lightly oiled the o-rings, it should slip in very easliy. Be careful not to "cut" an o-ring.
Install the 4x mounting screws that holds down the fuel rail to the intake.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast34.jpg

Remove the center cowl plastic plug. The new intake will hit it.
Once the intake is in place you can go back and clip the length of the plug and re-install.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast35.jpg

The stock 10x intake long bolts reach further into the heads than the bolts suplied by Fast.
I used the stock bolts. Put 2x long bolts into intake before you slide it under the cowl.
Be sure to lift and tape the 2x bolts so as not to scratch the head seal surface.
Before sliding the new intake all the way back be sure to plug in the MAP sensor, and the 1/8" Vacuum line. Route the brake booster line as you slide the intake back into place.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast36.jpg

The stock intake had a place where this part mounted to. The new intake does not.
We tie wrapped it to the stock wiring, and removed the un-needed bracket.
Plug in the 8x injectors, 2x grey connectors, and black connector at drivers firewall.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast37.jpg

Plug your catch can, or stock connections back into the manifold.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast38.jpg

Start screwing in all 10x intake bolts. Only finger tight to start.
Make 2x passes on the torque sequence. 45inch lbs first pass, and 89 inch lbs second and final pass.
Follow the sequence listed below for both torque sequences.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast.jpg
http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast39.jpg

Reconnect the fuel line and clip.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast40.jpg

Install and route the new LS2 Throttle body Harness.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast41.jpg

Install the throttle body gasket into the new intake.
Fast did not supply proper throttle body mounting screws so I got 4x 45mm #6 Stainless bolts with washers/lock washers.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast42.jpg

Mount the LS2 throttle body, and connect the electrical connections to it.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast43.jpg

I installed the air coupler and the rest of the vararam to make sure everything fit right.
I also need to determine where to drill the hole for the vacuum line from the passenger side head.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast44.jpg

I drilled a 7/8" hole into my air coupler

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast45.jpg

This is the hose that I put together and used contact cement to connect to my air coupler.
Let dry over night to ensure a good seal and fit.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast46.jpg

Everything back together.
I will later have to shave my stock engine covers to fit the higher Fast Intake.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast47.jpg

Double check all connections before connecting the Negative (-) battery terminal.

Turn the ignition to the ON position (do not start) for a minute or so.

This will allow the fuel to pressurize the fuel rails before ignition.

Get your car Dyno tuned because you will be running lean after this install.


Enjoy your new FAST intake manifold !

Hope this helps someone out !
Toque

Guys:

I shaved my engine covers and got a perfect fit. :cool:


To shave the engine covers you will need the following.
I got a 2" drum sanding wheel with 80 Grit sand paper and used my drill.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast49.jpg


You can see the BEFORE covers on top, and the AFTER covers on the botttom.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast50.jpg


The 2" drum sanding wheel fits very well for the angles I was trying to achieve.
What I did was install the cover, make marks where it needed to be sanded, and started sanding.
I would then re-install the cover and make more marks where it needed to be sanded, and started sanding again.
I continued doing this over and over and over till I got the shape I was looking for.
I went slow with it so as not to over sand any given area.
I wanted it to look like it was designed to fit the intake from the factory.
I made sure that the covers snapped into place and there was adequate clearance around the intake.
After I achieved the fit I wanted, I went back and used 400 grit sandpaper smoothed the cut edges.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast51.jpg


This is how the Passenger side fits after sanding.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast52.jpg


This is how the Driver side fits after sanding.

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast53.jpg


Ready to hit the streets ! :rock:

http://www.toquez06.com/fast/fast54.jpg


Toque

Here are my actual results.

http://www.toquez06.com//fast/fast48.jpg

Nice write up...

Jeez Toque that is an awesome write up. Can we sticky to Vette performance section please?

Thanks guys !!! :chug:

very nicely done bro props, very clean engine bay, and detailed install procedure,

just a question did the fast 92 fit good after removing the cowl plug,
i have seen people and heard about having to shim the engine cradle with thee FAST 102 some have some have not,

i dont want to take a hit or miss chance with having to shim my cradle for the 102,

did the 92 clear well by the backside firewall?

also did you have too grind clearance your water pump and ls2 TB for it to fit?

i ask because i know with the 102 TB you have to grind some clearance into the water pump and some of the TB, thanks


Jay

very nicely done bro props, very clean engine bay, and detailed install procedure,

just a question did the fast 92 fit good after removing the cowl plug,
i have seen people and heard about having to shim the engine cradle with thee FAST 102 some have some have not,

i dont want to take a hit or miss chance with having to shim my cradle for the 102,

did the 92 clear well by the backside firewall?

also did you have too grind clearance your water pump and ls2 TB for it to fit?

i ask because i know with the 102 TB you have to grind some clearance into the water pump and some of the TB, thanks


Jay


Thanks Jay !

I had no issues with the single cowl plug at the back. I just pulled the plug when I installed the 92, then clipped the plug length a little, then re-installed the plug after the 92 was in place. No clearance issues at all.

I hear many having to shim the cradle with the 102 on the C5's. :nod:

No issues with clearance at the back firewall.

I did not have to grind the water pump for the LS2 TB to fit either.

The install went as smooth as my procedure shows. If I needed to grind, or shim, or anything like that..... I would have for sure documented it in the procedure.

I did not want to go with a 102 because the extra 5rwhp was not worth having to do all the extra work. Shim cradle, NW102 TB, New fuel rails etc...

I got a brand new LS2 TB off Amazon for $201 shipped. :D For a simple DIY in my garage it was perfect !

Good luck on your decision !
Toque