99muscleam

Sorry for the old as time question about a cam, but I have been searching and haven't found the answer I need. Only my second post but I read alot of the post over the years. Hope I'm putting it in the right place.

Ok my 1999 Trans Am m6 mods= LT headers, dual exhaust, fake cats, no smog control, nkg plugs, msd wires, underdrive pulley, sun coast ram air hood w/full ram air and ls7 clutch. I think it is, cant remember to well about the clutch, been 4 years. Figure I would list them to help answer my question. And I have no tune yet.

Now the question. I need a new cam and all the stuff to go with it. I'm sure I can install it I just don't know what the parts are I need to get. I'm guessing cam, lifters, push rods, oil pump, springs. I am just in need of some specifics. As far as why I'm doing it, is cause the motor sounds like one or a few lifter are banging pretty loud when I start the motor maybe the rockers i just dont know So figured what the hell. I'll put the cam in too.

As far as cam. I don't plan on getting any heads. So as radical as I can get without having to tear the engine apart for a few years would be nice. I was driving the car to work everyday but I'm getting a company truck and now I just want it for fun.

Thanks in advance for any help. I just need to be pointed in the right direction. And I am sure the vast knowledge here is my best bet.

supersick99z

iTrader: (66)

First off if it's knocking at all I'd diagnose that problem before dropping money into a engine that may be on its last breathe. However, for a cam swap you need the following:

Cam, pushrods, timing chain, oil pump, spring kit, gaskets, new plugs/wires, and a tune. Also, not a bad idea to look into the trunion upgrade for the stock rockers.

It's not worth changing lifters because that requires pulling the heads and it's not worth it.

99muscleam

I was pretty sure it was a rod or lifter, but you are right I should be sure. I didn't know I had to remove heads to change lifters. Last motor I rebuilt was a 327 in my old 68 camaro. Jeez that was like 15 years ago. My plugs and wires have about 5000 miles on them. Would they still need changing? Just spent an hour looking into the trunion upgrade and that maybe another posability to the noise in the engine. Could be the rocker. I have 136000 miles on my TA. The thunder racing price is not bad for the upgrade. I really would feel better changing lifters if I'm going through all the trouble. Guess I could get heads polished and ported, or are stock heads even worth the time?
Thanks for the help.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

if i was you i would do the trunnion upgrade bc 130 is work it so you dont have to take the motor apart again...after you get all new internals for the cam swap you should be replacing whatever the problem is in theory, bt just inspect everything very closely bc these engines are a lil different than a traditional small blcok chevy...

on the cam swap....make sure, make sure, make sure....you buy a NEW and CORRECT oil pump pickeup oring bc thats the key to oil pressure with these motors..

also i would suggest pulling the heads to do the cam just because whenever i did my cam swap the lifters didnt stay up in the lifters trays like they were supposed to, but i was doing a head/cam swap at same time...its worth it to pull heads unless you buy the special lifter holding tool...also a head swap will only mean you have to clean gasket surface and buy new head bolts/gaskets which again is only like 150 more dollars...plus i dont like to change the valvesprings in the car if i dont HAVE to, bc that just gives the engine more chance of having something fall in it like dirt, nuts, tools, etc...

either way you do i figd i would let you know my indiivdual experience to help out...you are going to like it when its cammed...i have a 224/230 .58x lift 114lsa cam and with a mail order tune from pcmforless it pulls hard up to like 6700 rpm...have fun good luck

99muscleam

Ok I will remember to get the oring. Thanks is all this doable with the motor still in? Or would it be easier taking motor out?

Will the valve springs wear out quick with the cam you have? I would like to get the biggest choppy cam that has better low end than high.

I am going to try and get an intake while I'm at it also. Ls2 seem to be reasonable power for the price.

Thanks

garygnu

also check texas speed product (tsp) for parts.go to ls1howto.com for some helpful instructions.I wouldn't waste money on porting your current heads.consider some used 243/799 heads for $400.or save up for some ported heads from a vendor on this forum.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Like already stated figure out where the noise is coming from before you possibly throw good parts in a wasted motor..

LS6 intake is better than LS2....

read this. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

You can use 5/16 dowels or brakeline instead of the JRP tool.

Also you risk stripping the crank threads installing the pulley by the "how to" method. Get a proper pulley puller/installer and you will thank me... You will need a spring tool also and Speed Inc. and Comp sells nice ones that does two springs at a time....

TC gasket, coolant, and the stock pulley bolt is TTY so get an ARP.. Change belts if needed since you have to pull them anyway. Valve cover gaskets can prolly be used again.. Sure I am forgetting something but this thread will be a good start...

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Don't waste you time with ls2, go for ls6 it's way better...

It is way easier doing a head/cam with the engine/subframe out of the car, if you are lucky enough to have a lift to lift the body of the subframe...if doing it in the car the only hard bolts are the rear headbolts, they are tucked pretty good under the coal...but doable for sure I took a couple days just because I took my time...

99muscleam

Ok, I was fixing to take engine apart but I went ahead and go a mechanics opinion first. He said it sounds like a lose rocker, but I'm still going to go ahead and do all the work I had planed. I am looking for a LS6 intake to put on the motor after the rebuild. Yeah he said if your going to add that much torque to the 136000 mile engine might as well rebuild it. So I'm going to make sure I get all the part before I even start. Are these the right heads that were recommended?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-LS2-Corve...6#ht_492wt_582

I want to make sure befor I go ahead and buy them.

Going to try and take the front frame off and do a rebuild of the engine. Want to do it right. Might as well.
Thanks for the help.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I'd do:

GM LS7 lifters $140
Hardened pushrods (measure during assembly) $110
Fel-Pro PermaTorque MLS head gaskets: $50
Cam (take your pick) $400
Melling 10296 oil pump $110
Fel-Pro cam swap gasket set $50
Stock Cloyes LS2 timing set $75
Springs (vary depending on cam choice) $100-300
Trunion upgrade $140

99muscleam

Update

Took engine off with k- member under the car. Didn't find anything loose under the valve cover. Taking motor to machine shop and getting compleat rebuild.
Got a set of 799 heads. Getting ported, polished, gasket matched. Double springs with trunion upgrade. All new bottom with forged. Going with cam that the builder recommended. Said he used the same cam on another LS1 build that only had a lid and LT headers and it dynoed 425 at the wheels. Guess I should get a little more since I got the heads, LT, fake cats, ram air, polished throttle body. And going to go ahead and get some 30lb injectors.
Any other cheap upgrades I can do? Other than an intake. Unless there is a real cheap intake I can get. I can't see spending another $ 800 for 10hp. So far the cost for all the work is at about $3500, and that is about all I want to spend unless there is some real cheap HP I'm missing.