CS2 Sasuke XD

iTrader: (2)

Okay, my Ls1 is heading towards the *******. Thus I have been buying rebuild parts for the top end. But I keep hearing Lq9 this, Lq9 that. So, now I am interested.

Parts I have thus far

Full Ls1 motor
Stage 2.5 LS6 Heads
228r cam
SLP Double timing chain
Meiling Oil pump
.......
that's it

Parts I am still getting
LS6 intake manifold w/TB
LS7 lifters
pushrods.

So here are my questions.

What is the Lq9? Is it just an Iron block version of the LS6?
Will I be able to use my existing LS6 heads, intake and cam?
I've been told I will need to relocate my accessories, does this mean I cam just buy the Lq9 with it's own access's or can I only use my Ls1 access's?
Where to I get one for the best price with the rotating assembly. Or Could I buy one complete for 1500 or so and that do the job?
will it built right into my A4 Transmission and produce POWER!!..?
How much POWER?
Jeremy Clarkson moment..
Just some minor questions to determine what path I should take. Buy an lq9 bare block and build it? Buy an Lq9 block with rotating assembly and then build it? Or buy a full lq9 truck motor minus intake, oart it out and then build it? Just need some advice. and The last and ultimate question. Should I stay with my LS1 with 120k miles and add bigger power and rick it or go with the Lq9 with less miles? Mind you, I am on a strict Budget.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

the lq9 is an iron 6.0 out of silverado ss and escalades. its similar to the lq4 which is in the 2500 gmc/chevy trucks. the only difference is the lq9 has flat top pistons where as lq4 has dished (correct me if im wrong) for a slightly higher compression. all your ls1 parts will swap over but i think you need to drill a spot for the alternator bracket. with your heads/cam.ls6 intake, youll have a pretty stout combo.

CS2 Sasuke XD

iTrader: (2)

I've learned over the years. It's not that simple. what about the wire harness. Is that one reason it has to be a 24x reluctor? Which route should I even go. Preserve my LS1 and make it happen or go big with the 6.0. Is it even worth the Horse power?

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

It's that simple, lol. The LQ4/9 is simply an iron ls1 with a 4in bore. Other than drilling the hole for the alternator bracket and swapping over all of your accessories, pan, and pickup, you'll need to swap your oil sender from your f-body (trucks used a 3-wire, f-body is 1-wire iirc). The 98s are a little odd wiring wise (mine is a 93 so I know all about odd one-year only stuff, lol), but that's it.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Your best bet for a hassle free install would be to get a short block and just bolt all your **** up to it.

It really is that easy.....

CS2 Sasuke XD

iTrader: (2)

Kick *** guys. thanks. I am feeling more up to the job. so how cheap could I get a short block for. any rough estimates?

CMKworm

iTrader: (2)

Would it be easier/cheaper to pull and stroke the ls1 to a 4.0 than buy an iron block?

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

I picked up a running LQ4 for $950 out the door. I then tore it down and put the LS2 rods and pistons in it (they ran me about $125). I'm running the LS3 top end (intake, rails, injectors, and hardware - $300, LS3 heads - $714).

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Depends on what you're going for, aftermarket LS rotating assemblies are expensive and the stock LS2 bottom end is pretty stout. It would be cheaper to go with a stock bottom end 6.0 over a stroked LS1, but if you tear down the 6.0, it would be the same process as building up the LS1 as far as ease of install goes.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

3.905 is the most I would want to / feel comfortable taking out of an LS1. Guys have went bigger, but they also installed sleeves....

3.90 bore with stock internals yields you the 347
3.905 with 6.125 rods and 4" crank gets you the 383

And finally, 3.905 with a 4.1 crank will get you a 395. Reliabilty has been a question though, and I've only ever came across 2 guys on the boards that have them, and I'm not sure if they were their DD's.