69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Did a search and can't find a confirmed fit/part # for a LQ4 with the truck acessories in a 69 Chevelle. I do have a Jeep GC steering box installed. One search said a Dorman 300-020 would work, but its still too big and hits the box. Any suggestions appreciated.

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

I'm gonna be in the same boat soon...I think someone said GM 10166335 is the pulley to use.

flywheel

iTrader: (2)

I thought it was GM 14100597 or the ford E7ua30673fb 95-96 150/250 v8 5.8l....
Rick

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

72 Olds, L59, Jeep box, Dorman 300-201
A couple links
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...2-build-3.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...swap-pics.html

oldgoat69

I used Dorman 300-123.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Is the 300-123 and 300-201's bolts-ons or does the pump/etc need to be shimmed/modified?

flywheel

iTrader: (2)

I spect it has to alot to do with the placement of the engine. Mounts/placement of engine. I used the brp mounts on my 71 and didn't need any different pulley or change of the AC unit w/ the trk acc drive......
Rick

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

The problem with the 201 is that if you push the pulley on the shaft to the correct depth, it's too far on to remove with a standard puller. A press can remove it though.
I used 3 spacers on the bolts between the pump and truck bracket so mine can be removed with the puller.
Not sure on other pulleys.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

I using just the standard-issue 1" setback plates with the original BBC mounts I had. I dont think they were the "tall" style. I do know that the engine sits slightly higher b/c my bellhousing seems to be touching the tunnel, requiring clearancing. I def dont want the engine higher.


Basically just moving the pump towards the rear right? How do you guys know when the puller is lined-up properly with the other pullies?

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Heck, how about we just push the plastic pulley all the way on and forget about shimming the pump. When (if ever) the pulley needs to come off, we just cut it Its only plastic right?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Honestly at under $15, I probably will just break it off to get to the bolts and remove the pump. But if I'm stuck in Roosterpuke, Arkansas and cant get a pulley, there's at least the option of reusing the pulley that's on there.
It only took me 15 minutes with a hole saw to cut 3 0.2" spacers out of aluminum.
To align any pulley, lay a strait edge across the balancer, measure to one of the groves/ridges on the balancer. Extend the strait edge to the new pulley and measure to the same groove/ridge. Install until they're the same measurement.
Or you can buy a laser alignment tool.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Thanks Gary, great tip!!!

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Anybody have issues with these plastic pullies just breaking during operation? Found horror stories regarding these things letting go several months down the road after installation

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Can't imagine one breaking - if - it was installed correctly (no hammering!) and not hitting on anything while running.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

I hear ya, but the search revealed what seemed to be reasonable people doing a reasonable install. But who knows - they could be using a socket and hammer for all I know. I would rather go steel if possible though - cant blame me.

spacemanspif

iTrader: (5)

Some of the plastic ones have metal collars in them where they are pressed onto the shaft. I know this because I needed to pull one of mine for some reason but had pushed it on extra far, tried to use a 3 jaw puller and broke the pulley...after busting the rest of it off I still had to cut off the collar to fully remove everything.

I have 2 pulleys sitting in my basement GM 10166335 and Ford: E8UA-3d673-BA. Both approximately the same outer diameter. If you want to try the 2 of them to test things out, I'll sell them cheap if you come pick them up...I'm in Philly burbs in NJ.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Yes. Installed with a press and it broke at random one day when I tried to start my car. I can think of no reason to use a plastic pulley when metal ones are available. A combination of being pressed on a tab more and shimming the pump gets everything lined up and the pulley still removable with a tool. As mentioned, the metal collar left after the plastic breaks is a pain in the ***.

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

The dorman replacement number for ford e150 van is 300-010. Has anyone tried this one yet?

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

The kind of puller you want to use is like this (pulls on the hub), NOT one that pulls on the plastic OD:

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

Yes, the above puller is what you need. I have used it with success. I have heard it called a "clamshell" puller. The jaw-style pullers are just going to tear up you pulley.