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Turning crank by hand?

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Old 01-29-2012, 10:57 PM
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Default Turning crank by hand?

have the motor on the stand, stripped. I installed my crank and main bearings. 3 mains are set at .0018" of clearance, 2 mains are set at .0016" of clearance. My question is how easy should the crank turn? should it turn like butter, like sliding on ice? or should it turn with just a tiny bit of pressure? i ask because it seems to turn really easy but, for example if i tun the motor over by hand 15 times it turns really easy and nice but 2 out of those 15 times it feels like it hits a tinny tinny tight spot... nothing major just a tiny tight spot, not real tight but a slight bit more effort to turn then the rest... is this normal, maybe just machining that is off a tiny bit?

p.s. i followed the specs for setting the thruster bearing and torqued all the stock main bolts per spec and sequence.
Old 01-29-2012, 11:33 PM
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the inner bolts are 16 ft/lbs + 80*. if you went 16 ft/lbs + 81* or 82* on a few of the inner fasteners and lets say went 16 ft/lbs + 57* on some of the outer bolts instead of 53* could this cause my issue?
Old 01-29-2012, 11:45 PM
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I have read from guys on here that 45 ftlbs is about what it should take to turn shortblock, with heads on and compression building it should be more like 65-75ftlbs...it should at least but considerably more force to turn that what you know you got good compression
Old 01-29-2012, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by wildcamaro
I have read from guys on here that 45 ftlbs is about what it should take to turn shortblock, with heads on and compression building it should be more like 65-75ftlbs...it should at least but considerably more force to turn that what you know you got good compression
motor is torn down, the only thing in the block is the crank and the mains. i have read that with the crank, rods and pistons installed it should take no more than 15-16 ft/lbs to turn the crank.
It feels like to me there is a tight spot when turning the crank. If i stick my ear in the bore i can hear a slight friction noise when i feel the tight spot. as soon as it passes that spot i cant hear anything.
Old 01-30-2012, 06:24 AM
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I wonder why after so many turns it would hang up a little? Doesn't make much since. Pull each cap to see which bearing is being rubbed.
Old 01-30-2012, 07:35 AM
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My stuff is 20ftlb with evertthing but the plugs in it.

I would pull it back appart and see what is hitting.

I would also get the clearance on the mains a little closer. .016 to .18 is quite a bit of difference.

Tim
Old 01-30-2012, 11:18 AM
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i pulled the main caps off this morning and yeah something is diffidently not right. main cap bearing #1 looks ok #2 looks scraped but you cant feel it with your finger, #3 has a little scrapping, #4 has the same amount of scraping as #2, #5 looks ok. Pulled the crank out, the journals look good, the main bearings in the crank are fucked, they all look like they have scrapings (cant feel any of them by hand). it almost looks like debree caused the scraps but i cant find any debree. I cleaned the crank before installing (or so i thought), blew out the oil holes, wiped journals and entire crank down with solvent. Any one have any ideas?
im not going to run these bearings so looks like I need a new set quick status.

I will get some pics up in a few





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Old 01-30-2012, 11:27 AM
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Did you blow out all the oil holes? It's a must and pull the barbell restricter out and blow it out, too. You may want to get the crank mic'ed, too. Could be out of round. Are you using main bolts or studs? If studs it should be align honed. Just a few thoughts.
Old 01-30-2012, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by butler
Did you blow out all the oil holes? It's a must and pull the barbell restricter out and blow it out, too. You may want to get the crank mic'ed, too. Could be out of round. Are you using main bolts or studs? If studs it should be align honed. Just a few thoughts.
i blew all the oil holes out with air. what barbell restricter are you talking about? the crank was turned and then nitrate treated by the machine shop. I just picked it up a few days ago.

if it was debree that was causing my issue then shouldnt the crank have been harder to turn the entire time. the crank coasts like an ice hooky puck on ice untill it hit the tight spot then it takes 17 ft/lbs to get past that spot, then coasts again

Last edited by 3rdCoastPowerSports; 01-30-2012 at 11:44 AM.
Old 01-30-2012, 01:28 PM
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problem fixed, it turns out i didn't have the thrust bearing set properly. i took everything out, cleaned, lubed and reinstalled (this time beating the crank harder than last time). everything turns over by hand like glass. im re using the bearings, turns out it was just the protective coating that was wore off
Old 02-09-2012, 12:38 PM
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Exactly what process did you use to seat the thrust bearing? When it successfully seated...

I know how Ive read it to be done..just curious what you ended up doing.

J.
Old 02-09-2012, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ghettocruiser
Exactly what process did you use to seat the thrust bearing? When it successfully seated...

I know how Ive read it to be done..just curious what you ended up doing.

J.
the first time i set the thurst bearing i didnt beat the crank hard enough to get it set. the second time around i beat it like a a step kid. first forward, rearward and then finally forward one last time. you really got to smack the thing. rubber mallet or dead blow

by the way your interior looks sick
Old 02-10-2012, 06:29 AM
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Thanks. I miss that interior...haha. Hopefully if I get this 6.0 put together I get to enjoy it sometime soon.

Ok. Big dead blow it is. Thats pretty much what Ive read, but I figured I would get all the input I can. A little more tear down, and a crank kit, and I should be there!

J.
Old 02-10-2012, 06:38 AM
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You should not have to beat on the crank. Just pry it forward and rearword with a flat bar or big screwdriver or brass hammer. The protective coating is sometimes removed by hand bysome builders.



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