What could I recycle from my current build for future FI?
01-30-2012, 03:18 AM
#1
What could I recycle from my current build for future FI? I've wrapped up about every other project I've wanted to do to my car, and have been thinking a lot lately about starting to collect parts for a Truck manifold Turbo setup. But since parts aren't free, I need to figure out what all I might be able to salvage from my current build-up. I'd like to shoot for the 700-750 hp range, nothing to insane. Mostly a sunny day car with occasional "test-n-tune" days.
I really don't want to run consistently in the 9's as I don't want to have to re-do the entire car for that speed class, but consistant low 10's would be pretty sweet. (Gotta get 1 timeslip to frame though lol). Either way, it'll be on 26" tires. (should this factor in when figuring lag/turbo size?)
I figure the drivetrain is all good already. Maybe have the converter re-worked, but no biggie. The tranny (4L80), converter (Circle-D), rear end (Strange 12 bolt), driveshaft and suspension parts (Spohn & BMR) are all strong enough.
I have an Aeromotive 1000 fuel pump, but would have to re-do the lines and get a different regulator & fuel rails. Probably gonna have to upgrade the injectors (currently SVO 42#).
Not sure if I'll be able to do this with the stock PCM and HPT 2-Bar programming or not. Still researching.
What about the aluminum LS2 block and 4" forged crank/rods? I see lots of people go to iron blocks, but since this one's paid for, can it be used? Will I need it machined for larger ARP studs?
I think I bought the short block from SDPC 6 years ago with 12cc dished pistons. Can they be re-worked or would it be cheaper to just buy new ones? The car has sat a lot due to various mechanical issues, so there's not many miles on the motor at all.
About the heads. I have ET 245's with 59cc chambers. They're nice heads, but would it cost too much to have the chambers re-worked to hit a better compression ratio?
Given the option, should I adjust the pistons or heads first to tweak the compression ratio?
I assume I can keep the FAST 90mm intake/TB I'm using as long as I keep to under ~14# of boost? (still using a factory hood, to an alternate choice has to stay low clearance)
My current tune isn't using the factory o2 sensors. Did you all plumb in bungs for them on your builds?
As far as new stuff I'll have to buy:
Injectors/Rails/Regulator
Camshaft
Griffin Radiator & Fan(s) (found nice writeups on vertical mounting)
FMIC (lord help me, this'll be fun)
Manifolds, clamps, pipes, flanges (found in sticky's)
Turbo (I still have no idea how to research these, sadly. But I've been reading Killer-LS1's build with great intrest)
Wastegate/BOV (adjustable or "set it and forget it"?)
Vacuum and Turbo oil feed/return lines
I'd like to start this project over next winter so a little pre-planning will give me time to shop the classifieds and accumulate the parts.
(My wife loves this car, she's gonna break down and cry when she see's me taking a cutoff wheel to the radiator support
)
Thanks for any useful input everyone.
I really don't want to run consistently in the 9's as I don't want to have to re-do the entire car for that speed class, but consistant low 10's would be pretty sweet. (Gotta get 1 timeslip to frame though lol). Either way, it'll be on 26" tires. (should this factor in when figuring lag/turbo size?)
I figure the drivetrain is all good already. Maybe have the converter re-worked, but no biggie. The tranny (4L80), converter (Circle-D), rear end (Strange 12 bolt), driveshaft and suspension parts (Spohn & BMR) are all strong enough.
I have an Aeromotive 1000 fuel pump, but would have to re-do the lines and get a different regulator & fuel rails. Probably gonna have to upgrade the injectors (currently SVO 42#).
Not sure if I'll be able to do this with the stock PCM and HPT 2-Bar programming or not. Still researching.
What about the aluminum LS2 block and 4" forged crank/rods? I see lots of people go to iron blocks, but since this one's paid for, can it be used? Will I need it machined for larger ARP studs?
I think I bought the short block from SDPC 6 years ago with 12cc dished pistons. Can they be re-worked or would it be cheaper to just buy new ones? The car has sat a lot due to various mechanical issues, so there's not many miles on the motor at all.
About the heads. I have ET 245's with 59cc chambers. They're nice heads, but would it cost too much to have the chambers re-worked to hit a better compression ratio?
Given the option, should I adjust the pistons or heads first to tweak the compression ratio?
I assume I can keep the FAST 90mm intake/TB I'm using as long as I keep to under ~14# of boost? (still using a factory hood, to an alternate choice has to stay low clearance)
My current tune isn't using the factory o2 sensors. Did you all plumb in bungs for them on your builds?
As far as new stuff I'll have to buy:
Injectors/Rails/Regulator
Camshaft
Griffin Radiator & Fan(s) (found nice writeups on vertical mounting)
FMIC (lord help me, this'll be fun)
Manifolds, clamps, pipes, flanges (found in sticky's)
Turbo (I still have no idea how to research these, sadly. But I've been reading Killer-LS1's build with great intrest)
Wastegate/BOV (adjustable or "set it and forget it"?)
Vacuum and Turbo oil feed/return lines
I'd like to start this project over next winter so a little pre-planning will give me time to shop the classifieds and accumulate the parts.
(My wife loves this car, she's gonna break down and cry when she see's me taking a cutoff wheel to the radiator support
)Thanks for any useful input everyone.
