Generation IV Internal Engine - Ts 224/224 or eps224/236

I am getting ready to order ....finally after hours and hours of reading For a fun street car that I daily drive and race twice a year on a fun Tueday night drag.
What would be your recommendations for a cam.
I am a little nervous on the EPS just because I am running stock LS1 heads with the Trunion upgrade so I don't want to break anything...600 rise and a big bigger cam

A 224/236 by EPS with 113lsa .600 rise or a TS 224/224 with 112lsa and .581 rise

I called both companies and that was theer recommendation with my mods I bought an ls6 intake Kook headers y pipe cat back flowmaster and a Yank SS3200

EPS hands down! They know their stuff, and have the papers to prove it!

+1 to pat G and Geoff!

I am leaning there as well I talk to Geoff wow He is incredebly knowledgeable

Have all the rite numbers...

IMO, I would lean towards the TS224/224 with LT headers, or even better yet a 224/228, possible even the EPS TT3 (224/230 111lsa). I just couldn't see going with the 224/236 EPS unless you were going to stick with stock exhaust manifolds.
http://www.engpwrsys.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=6

IMO, I would lean towards the TS224/224 with LT headers, or even better yet a 224/228, possible even the EPS TT3 (224/230 111lsa). I just couldn't see going with the 224/236 EPS unless you were going to stick with stock exhaust manifolds.
http://www.engpwrsys.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=6

I have a Yank ss3200 Kook headers 1 7/8 and 3" cat back set up a lid an LS6 intake and 3:42 gears and I am looking for the best cam set up. Chances are I will not changed the heads if I do it will be in a few years

The big split would probably help with nitrous or a supercharged app. Think its a bit over kill. I would also consider something in the 228r range. It can make a few more ponies then 224 without loss of drivability. Just my opinion but do so research on it.

The big split would probably help with nitrous or a supercharged app. Think its a bit over kill. I would also consider something in the 228r range. It can make a few more ponies then 224 without loss of drivability. Just my opinion but do so research on it.

My mechanic said the same thing He is a wiz if you ask me That guy has like 5 ls motors from supercharge to cam set up and he mentionned a 224 or a 228 and also a custom drind but the custom grind with dual spring was like a grand. So the more I look at it I need to talk to Geoff at ESP or just buy from TS the 228 or the 224 but they recommend the behive that scares me for spring breakage I wonder If I should just run the dual's with that set up. I thought I was close but I guess I need to do more reading and asking around....

Well if u do xer lobes u can go with comp 918s or the low lift pacs i think they r 1218s. I would recommend the better pacs 1518 i believe for the higher lifts on the eps over 0.600 there r some good duals out there i think Manley makes a good set.

I would go with the 224 since you already have a 3200 converter and you have 3.42 gears. The bigger cams really need 3600+ converter.

Should I put a dual spring set up on a 224/224 .581 lift 112lsa I am trying to keep her safe

If going with a cam is a roll of the dice, then I'll just install my LS6 intake and headers and keep her like that..... I just hoped to wake it up :-)

Do the 228r if you arent going the eps route. Its a little higher lift than the 224r and it will give you a little more horsepower

If you go with the 224 you are going to be disappointed. I had a 228R in a head/cam/3000 stall ls6 and it ran hard but for ls2/3 you can do so much more. The 228r is not much bigger than the 224 but like I said. With all your mods, go bigger

Take a look at the Futral F4 (226/226 112lsa, with .575" lift)
http://www.futralmotorsports.com/fms_partsgroup.asp?pf=1&pg=5

If you want to go a little over-kill,a set of PAC 1518s is more than enough!

Do the 228r if you arent going the eps route. Its a little higher lift than the 224r and it will give you a little more horsepower

Are you seriously giving advice on LS engines now?

I am getting ready to order ....finally after hours and hours of reading For a fun street car that I daily drive and race twice a year on a fun Tueday night drag.
What would be your recommendations for a cam.
I am a little nervous on the EPS just because I am running stock LS1 heads with the Trunion upgrade so I don't want to break anything...600 rise and a big bigger cam

A 224/236 by EPS with 113lsa .600 rise or a TS 224/224 with 112lsa and .581 rise

I called both companies and that was theer recommendation with my mods I bought an ls6 intake Kook headers y pipe cat back flowmaster and a Yank SS3200


I think you mean EPS 226/234...

Also, if this is truly a street car you race twice a year, you need to go smaller with the cam. A small cam that makes gobs of tq will put a smile on your face WAY faster than one that is on the medium to large side.

I would do a 222 226 if you're going the EPS route...

You could also do basically the same specs as the TR 224 but on EPS lobes and make more power and tq compared to the original TR224

I think you mean EPS 226/234...

Also, if this is truly a street car you race twice a year, you need to go smaller with the cam. A small cam that makes gobs of tq will put a smile on your face WAY faster than one that is on the medium to large side.

I would do a 222 226 if you're going the EPS route...

You could also do basically the same specs as the TR 224 but on EPS lobes and make more power and tq compared to the original TR224

I really appreciate the feedback I will be calling EPS and also would you go dual spring set up I was thinking it would be safer and do you change the springs every 20 to 30 000 miles

Good info in this section!!

+1 EPS Cam

I really appreciate the feedback I will be calling EPS and also would you go dual spring set up I was thinking it would be safer and do you change the springs every 20 to 30 000 miles

this is a good question ive been wondering about. what do people recommend when it comes to checking or replacing valve springs on engines pac 1218s, 1518s, or even the patiot golds or what ever with the 224r .581 range?

go with double springs, if you are looking at the 224 cam skip it and go eps 226/234 as stated earlier in this thread. Makes great power down low. I made 435 with that cam and TSP stage ! 23's through an A4.

I do not run either of those cams but something close. A 224/228 .581/.588 110+0 LSA. Had this cam in for 125,000 miles now. I change dual springs at about 60,000 miles. When I last changed them the ones that came out were still good to go. Car is a heads/cam and all the bolt ons dailey driver making 452/418. Comp ratio is 11.4 to 1 which a little higher than most folks run but I have had no problem with it. The power peaks at 6300-6400 and it makes 375 ft lbs, of TQ at 3000 rpms. A very usable power band for a street car and as I said valve springs last forever with this cams profile. Good luck to you which ever way you decide to go.

My mechanic said the same thing He is a wiz if you ask me That guy has like 5 ls motors from supercharge to cam set up and he mentionned a 224 or a 228 and also a custom drind but the custom grind with dual spring was like a grand. So the more I look at it I need to talk to Geoff at ESP or just buy from TS the 228 or the 224 but they recommend the behive that scares me for spring breakage I wonder If I should just run the dual's with that set up. I thought I was close but I guess I need to do more reading and asking around....

Who in the hell is charging 1000 for a custom ground cam kit?

Ours is 679.99 http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-polluter-v1-complete-camshaft-upgrade-package-for-ls1-or-ls6-engines/

As far as the 224/236 cam goes I actually have a buddy with a cam with the same specs(not an EPS cam) on a 110+3 and I have NEVER seen a 224 intake duration cam pull to 7000rpm like his did.

The reason for this is when you add that much exhaust duration to a cam with the intake duration where this one is, it ends up opening the exhaust valve earlier which when used in conjunction with the correct other valve events hangs the torque curve way on out there in the RPM range. The further you can hang the torque curve out the more hp you're going to make at higher RPM's.

Even though the power "peaked" at 6300rpm it was flat till 6900-7000rpm and pulled like a freight train all the way to there. It did not sacrifice any mid range or low end while still pulling to as high as it did. In a M6 car being able to hang the torque curve out there this far makes all the difference in the world in shift recovery since in a M6 car the drop in RPM between shifts is a lot more than in an automatic car with an aftermarket stall converter.

Just some things to think about.

great info! that description is spot on with how my car ran with the 226/234 cam.

great info! that description is spot on with how my car ran with the 226/234 cam.

I don't explain this stuff for my health that's for sure!:jest: