First heads and cam setup, have a plethora of questions and need advice.
02-04-2012, 07:18 PM
#1
First heads and cam setup, have a plethora of questions and need advice. I have an 04 CTS-V. My mods include long tube headers, CAI, LS7 clutch setup, "hi-flow" cats, and tune (of course a retune after the build). I'm going to list the products with links to the individual products, and my questions numbered so it's easier for those replying to the questions to help me out. As always, any input is greatly appreciated.
Now, here's what I've already purchased:
Texas Speed Magic Stick 3 Cam - 237/242 .603"/.609" with 112 LSA
Here's what I'm considering purchasing:
Patriot Stage 3 Heads
1. Will this work with a stock LS6 block? I've heard complaints about the ring on the heads being too small for the cylinder bore on my block, meaning there's a slight ledge. How relevant is this going to be?
2. Are the Patriot .650 Gold Dual springs good enough for this cam? I've heard of issues with these springs, but am not sure if it was someone blowing something out of proportion, or actually an issue with budget heads. If not, what are some good springs?
ARP 134-3610 Head Bolts
3. Are these the correct head bolts for this application? If no, which ones are?
GM Performance LS1/LS6 Cylinder Head Gasket Set
4. Is this the correct head gasket set for this setup? Is there a better set that I could use to keep stock compression, or will these do it?
5. I talked to TSP on the phone about what pushrods to use, and he told me with the stock 243 casting LS6 heads, I need 7.400in hardened pushrods (which I actually have at my disposal), with these Patriot Stage 3's does the 7.400 inch push rod still hold true?
Now, here's what I've already purchased:
Texas Speed Magic Stick 3 Cam - 237/242 .603"/.609" with 112 LSA
Here's what I'm considering purchasing:
Patriot Stage 3 Heads
1. Will this work with a stock LS6 block? I've heard complaints about the ring on the heads being too small for the cylinder bore on my block, meaning there's a slight ledge. How relevant is this going to be?
2. Are the Patriot .650 Gold Dual springs good enough for this cam? I've heard of issues with these springs, but am not sure if it was someone blowing something out of proportion, or actually an issue with budget heads. If not, what are some good springs?
ARP 134-3610 Head Bolts
3. Are these the correct head bolts for this application? If no, which ones are?
GM Performance LS1/LS6 Cylinder Head Gasket Set
4. Is this the correct head gasket set for this setup? Is there a better set that I could use to keep stock compression, or will these do it?
5. I talked to TSP on the phone about what pushrods to use, and he told me with the stock 243 casting LS6 heads, I need 7.400in hardened pushrods (which I actually have at my disposal), with these Patriot Stage 3's does the 7.400 inch push rod still hold true?
02-04-2012, 08:43 PM
#2
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I know that the springs will be plenty but I cannot really comment on the heads. Did you talk to tsp about their ported ls6 heads or even the 2.5 5.3 heads thay sell?
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02-05-2012, 06:56 PM
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I would say the main issue poeple are talking about would be focused on valve shrouding but that would'nt be a problem as You're talking about a head made for a 4" bore installed on a 3.945" bore so the closest the valve will be to the cylinder walls will occur only when the valve is all the way open and would be roughly .055" away compared to the stock head with valve open about .080" away from cylinder wall ,,,,,,,,,,,not a huge difference , but the 1 poster is right about a little less velocity equating to a lttle less low end ,,,,,,but from about 2000-2500 up the power will be higher than stock heads . I would agree with using the 6.0L gasket ,,,,,,,,which style is up to You .
02-06-2012, 06:36 PM
#10
your bore should be 3.898,get a stage 2 head .for the most power a Patrick-G cam would make better usable power.buy the cam last to make the whole combo work the best.look at some TSP heads,or go to vengeance racing and get some trick flows heads.
02-06-2012, 09:00 PM
#11
1. Those heads are designed for a 4" bore. You need a head with no bigger than 2.02/1.57 valves.
2. I would leave rod bolts alone. You already have the upgraded GM part.
3. Depends on the heads. I am guessing those stage III's have the chamber opened up for a 4" bore so in that case you would need LQ/LS2 gaskets..
2. I would leave rod bolts alone. You already have the upgraded GM part.
3. Depends on the heads. I am guessing those stage III's have the chamber opened up for a 4" bore so in that case you would need LQ/LS2 gaskets..
02-07-2012, 08:23 PM
#12
1. Those heads are designed for a 4" bore. You need a head with no bigger than 2.02/1.57 valves.
2. I would leave rod bolts alone. You already have the upgraded GM part.
3. Depends on the heads. I am guessing those stage III's have the chamber opened up for a 4" bore so in that case you would need LQ/LS2 gaskets..
2. I would leave rod bolts alone. You already have the upgraded GM part.
3. Depends on the heads. I am guessing those stage III's have the chamber opened up for a 4" bore so in that case you would need LQ/LS2 gaskets..
Now, I don't intend on taking these heads off for a VERY VERY long time. as a matter of fact, i will probably throw the car in the garbage with these heads on it a few years from now (like 234 years).
Are the GM/OEM Equivalent bolts OK, or do I need to purchase the ARP bolts?
I've already purchased these gaskets - head, timing, exhaust, and 2 water pump gaskets, and i got the valley cover gasket with my heads.
what else will I need?
