View Full Version : Rattle while coming to a stop, gone when driving off..


20SS06
02-10-2012, 11:14 AM
I've been having a really frustrating problem with a metallic rattling noise coming from somewhere in the middle. The noise starts especially when I come to a stop and can be heard inside the car and on the outside, then gets a little louder for about a second when I press the gas to drive away and then disappears. I have taken it to a couple of places around town to have it checked but no one was able to pinpoint it. I also took it to a transmission shop to have them check and try to pinpoint it but with no luck. I had suggested that it might be the torque converter but still they said everything seems normal. If anyone has had the same problem please let me know! Thanks.

P.S. the noise also goes away when I put it on first.

rm08gxp
02-10-2012, 08:54 PM
check the heat shield and see if its loose...(exhaust), specific to cat area

mcdonald77
02-26-2012, 08:25 AM
might be the flaps in the mufflers. Its the biggest complaint about them. I also picked up a couple to run on my Jimmy.

BuddahMan22
04-05-2012, 02:19 PM
I kno this thread is old as hell but i deffinitley have the same rattling issue when coming to a stop.

V8ImpSS
04-05-2012, 05:54 PM
try putting the shifter in "3", if it goes away then its the trans, more specifically the converter

BuddahMan22
04-05-2012, 09:44 PM
trans converter? is that the cat conveter?? or is there a trans converter, srry not a gear head to all the facts...

V8ImpSS
04-05-2012, 10:45 PM
the torque converter, which goes inbetween the Engine's flywheel and the transmission's input shaft.

did putting it in 3 fix it?

BuddahMan22
04-07-2012, 01:56 AM
If it is the Torque converter how much is that gunna set me back? and how much were your springs and strutts after everything was done?

baltsk8er69
04-07-2012, 07:03 AM
With your core you can get a precision industries converter for like 250-300 then you have to pay for install, not sure on the cost of install though.

V8ImpSS
04-07-2012, 01:33 PM
Install is expensive, you have to drop the entire drivetrain assembly, then remove the engine, big pain in the ass. Ive been riding around with my car in "3" for a few months now to avoid the problem until the 6t75 trans programming is all figured out. Them I'm doing the 6t75, either with a 5.3 aluminum truck block, or hopefully an LS2. Both engines would end up running the LS4 crank and accessories. So I'm waiting to do everything in 1 swoop, saves time and money.

I did all my suspension upgrades in 1 swoop as well, just counting the springs and struts it was around $1500 IIRC, plus I spend another good $650 on the control arms, bushings, sway bar end links, and the STB's

BuddahMan22
04-08-2012, 12:46 PM
Well damn looks like im gunna keep mine stock till i get outa grad school lol

Dom87SS
04-08-2012, 08:01 PM
Install is expensive, you have to drop the entire drivetrain assembly, then remove the engine, big pain in the ass. Ive been riding around with my car in "3" for a few months now to avoid the problem until the 6t75 trans programming is all figured out. Them I'm doing the 6t75, either with a 5.3 aluminum truck block, or hopefully an LS2. Both engines would end up running the LS4 crank and accessories. So I'm waiting to do everything in 1 swoop, saves time and money.

I did all my suspension upgrades in 1 swoop as well, just counting the springs and struts it was around $1500 IIRC, plus I spend another good $650 on the control arms, bushings, sway bar end links, and the STB's

Will the truck blck bolt up to that? Most FWD trans have a different bolt pattern than RWD. Which is why we have a special block with the FWD v6 style pattern cast into it. Aside from that, would it even fit in? Not sure if the blocks OD is the same as ours. I know the front drive stuff is narrowed down some 13mm or so from other LS motors but nit sure about the actual block.

V8ImpSS
04-08-2012, 08:26 PM
Yes, the 6t75 comes mated only to the 3.6 and 3.0 which have the same bolt pattern as all the other v8's. Besides the bell housing bolt pattern thedimensions of the ls4 block are the same as all the other gen4 ls motors. All i have to do is run the ls4 crank and ls4 accessory drive and it will almost bolt in. Plus the truck block will have a starter mout that may or maynot work with the 6t75. That could save me from having to fab one up custom. Plus the truck block can be bored to ls6 spec to make some more power for not much more money because i can still use regular gm parts. With milled ls6 heads an intake and a cam im expected 500 horse