blacknyellow

iTrader: (3)

What is the best oil I can put in my ls1 with a 228r?

Jontall

I use Mobil 1 0W40 and it works great in all weather; a lot of additives/detergent too.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You are going to get nothing but opinion. Most folks do not use "used oil analysis" to verify their decisions but are quick to make unsupported claims about what is "good".

"this is what I use and it works fine" is not supporting an opinion either any API rated oil in a weight somewhere near recommended will pass that "test".

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php is where I would look for data supported oil research.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

^^^ I recommend BITOG as well.
My personal preference is Redline Oil.

Track_FC

iTrader: (2)

I will be using Mobil 1. I've used it in my DD for the last 4 years and I've been happy with it.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Any upper shelf synthetic oil will do you well. Stay on the lower weight side like a 10W-30. Personally, I run German Castrol 0W-30, it's highly regarded on BITOG.

A much better question to ask is what oil filter should I run? Reach for a Mobil One Extended filter. K&N, Amsoil, Wix/CarQuest, Hastings, all have the goods for proper filtration. Fleetguard is the best, Fram, STP, Penzoil, Fram and most store brands are the worst.

ls1 1990 VN

Royal Purple, Redline, German Castrol, even Valvoline Durablend has an excellent shear factor. Really a good quality oil & changed regularly.
Mobil 1 is crap.

baalic

iTrader: (8)

not just Royal Purple as they changed their blends, go with the HPS Royal Purple oil.....its the one with the best blend for a street car.... RP also has a filter thats manufactured by the same people who manufacture the K&N Filter but apparently it's made to filter a little bit better and is an "extended life" filter..... I havn't used the new HPS oil yet as they just recently changed the blend or the oil filter but K&N Filters seem to be a good oil filter and the old RP oil seemed to work good for me, but its all a matter of opinion. we all like different ****.

TransAmcoupe98

iTrader: (10)

Differences are negligable between most of the full synthetics. I use penzoil FS.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

anything non synthetic, that has a lot of zinc in it...
I run Valvoline Vr1 10-30 non synthetic..

RikkiTorment

Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30 or their Signature Series 5W-30. I go between them for summer and winter driving. Royal Purple is all a marketing hoax, it darkens your internals, it is based mostly off of recycled stocks, and it breaks down prematurely.

http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_artic...mW6PM,bbb6mDbC

butler

lubrication engineers.

CamaroSS27

iTrader: (6)

Mobile 1 5w-30 is great oil and what I use in all my vehicles including my head/cam ls1

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

RP is no doubt good stuff but too expensive. There's other oils & filters on the market just as good for less coin.

baxsom

iTrader: (6)

wow, ask this on the corvetteforum and anyone that says anything other than mobil 1 is automatically branded an infidel. still go to www.bobistheoilguy.com.

hundreds of used oil analysis reports uploaded to show how different oils wear

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Ls1 is made to run on synthetic, you only need high zinc oil to break in flat tappet cams...roller cam don't need that stuff, also roller cam doesn't need moly lube when installing, just regular Mobil 5w-30 is best in my opinion

redsilv

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13290598705363

If I did this right; here is another link that has interesting
readings

Originally posted in 2010
from another ls1 tech member

The tests were surprising to me seeing as i always
thought Mobile 1 was a superb oil
I was using that stuff for years
I do have a bearing issue in the truck and started using
valvoline durablend and im still driving the truck daily with
over 2000 miles since the bearing issue

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

you are very wrong...

ask top engine builders about zinc..
zinc is always beneficial...
the reason more car companies dont put in a high zinc content from the factory is because it can be hard on your catalytic converter...

you are also wrong thinking that a cam doesnt need moly lube on install
there are cam journals that rest on bearings that need lube...
just because it is a hydraulic roller cam doesnt offset the fact that it is new metal...there is still friction...the little roller at the end of the lifter does not roll with zero friction, it does partially slide, just not as much as a flat tappet...
take a look at a cam new, and compare it to one with only a few thousand miles....there is a difference


also, running synthetic, from the factory is not an issue because your motor has already been broken in before it even goes in the car, so you dont need to seat the rings in a factory car..
they actually break in the engines with a "dino"(meaning petroleum non synthetic) oil that has a high Zinc content..
if you buy a brand new engine and install it yourself, it needs to be broken in properly and synthetic oil will keep it from being able to seal and seat the rings properly...its actually too slick and it will not allow the rings to rub against the cylinder wall and seal properly. they are designed so that the 2 pieces rub on one another, and knock off all the rough edges and mate to each others shape to seal correctly.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Used Oil Analysis in a specific application like what you are using is THE test of oils.

The tests like in the link from the last poster will actually show BLEACH to work well but I don't think any of us will be filling the crankcase with that. Sure it tells you something about the oils and no surprise is exposes the companies who spend more on marketing than R&D but it is a long long ways from the whole story about how an oil will work in a specific engine.

The above link even compares 5w-30 to 5w-60 and one was "similar to a 20w-50" boy that is scientific. For their next test maybe they should try "packing" front wheelbearings with engine oil and see how it compares to proper grease??

Also I saw comments about the LS being "made to run on synthetics" can you verify that somehow? I looked up a 2000 Camaro owner's manual online and it just said 5w-30 or 10w-30 no mention of synthetics except for if you plan to operate below -20f and even then is says CONSIDER using synthetic.

redsilv

If you have emissions its also something to consider
as Sound Engineer had stated

I would read all that i could and make my best opinionated
decision from my own research
Every body is going to have opinions
which is what makes this forum