99VetteFRC

Does anyone have pics of their oil pan fitting in a 68-72 Chevelle?

lownfast

iTrader: (4)

pm me your # i can text you my pics of my fbody pan fit, to crossmember and tie rods.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Ok. had some time to post some pictures of the CTS-V pan

Comparing to a notched F-Body pan.







With engine mounted. with moving the engine as low and forward as I could, contact



Moved the engine back a bit and rasised it some.




That about it...

BC

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

72 Olds 442, 1" setback mounts, CTS-V oil pan

oldgoat69

Canton pan using Canton oil filter mount. It does hang a bit low, but the engine sits VERY low.

99VetteFRC

Does the fbody pan have to be modded to fit? When I put the engine in the car, I left the trans where it was with the BBC and just set the LS in to the trans. The BBC measured 1.5" longer than the LS. I had to move the frame mounts back 1.5" and then raise the engine about .75" to get tie rod clearance. So I am wondering if fbody pan will work where I have the engine sitting now.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

The Stock un-mod'd F-Body pan is a hard fit.. Yes it will fit, I had it in, but didn't like how tight it fit.. with my 71 frame / firewall.. I used the Early BRP style of mounting the engine. You will end up with about 3/8" between the Pan and the Crossmember and about 3/8" between the passenger side head and firewall. The early BRP plates require you move the Frame Stands to relocate the engine to be centered. Another reason I didn't leave the Stock F-Body pan in was that it made installing and removing the engine very hard to do..! (i know, i've had to do it, read shoe horn, BFH, Jumping on it to sqeeze the engine in).

There is a reason BRP when with Design #2..

The Gen III/VI engine are about 1" short than a SBC engine. GM want to make the engine fit into smaller engine compartments.. How they did this. .was to shorting the block at the rear of the engine.. if you look at a SBC.. the flange where it bolts to the bell housing is about 1" to 1 1/2" wide.. the Gen III/VI is shorten by 1".. that is one of the reason why many say you have to move the engine back 1" (with 1" setback plates) to mate the engine up with the Trans/bell housing (if the trans was left in the stock location).

If you use standard plate (S&P or ATS) and the frames stand are now where the SBC frames would line up. No.. you would be just doing a S&P swap plates and would require a notch F-Body pan to clear the crossmember.

I have said the best thing to do is just mount the plates, engine mounts and Stand together and to the engine, then just drop it in, move the engine to where you want it to be and then mark the location where the stands end up, removed the engine and either bolt or weld the frame stands in place.

BC

99VetteFRC

Thanks for the info.... Thats exactly what I did. Bought standard location mounts but the engine was too far forward. So I put the mounts together and spaced it up where I wanted it and marked the holes and redrilled the frame. Just trying to get a pan that fits where I have the engine at now. Looks like Holley pan is best but cost more than I have. CTS-V pan seems best choice.

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

I am using a Holley pan now and it fits great. Had a Milodon and the real problem with it was I could not get the engine out with the trans installed. Would not pull fwd enough to get the input shaft out of the clutch.

The Holley pan looks like it will clear. The ground clearance is higher than the crossmember.

Tim

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I am using the RetroLS pan which is the Holley pan before they brought the design and rights to it. I got it from Shawn over at RetroLSX.com when he was first marketing them. Using it for my Nova project.

That and the MAST pan should fit just about everything due to the smaller rear sump. I wish they had a better inner baffle.

99VetteFRC

That Holley pan is so expensive. I got a CTS-V pan with windage, dipstick and gasket off Ebay this morning for $179.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

99'.. good score.. you do have to mount the engine up a bit and back some due to the pan mid slop between the front and back Sump areas...

BC

99VetteFRC

I was looking at the pisc you posted and from Gary68 and that made my desision. My engine is back about 1.5" and up about .75" to make the truck pan clear. there should be lots of room. I'll post some pics of the truck pan tonight.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

"Truck pan"? I hope you got the caddy CTS-V and not a truck pan.
The GM muscle car (H3) pan is deeper than the CTS-V and other truck pans even deeper than that.

99VetteFRC

truck pan on there now.... mistake... lol... CTS-V pan on the way.

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

I'm just going to notch cross member for f-body pan. Hopefully in next week or two.

I'm guessing you probably want to avoid that though...I think it comes down to mounts as well. So many variables with mounts, pan, headers, accessories, blah blah...

99VetteFRC

At this point I just wanna get the drivable. I wanna concentrate on getting the turbo stuff together. It would be really Killer to have all of this done by the end of April so I can take it the big show in Ocean City Md. I cracked the oil pan on the first test drive, now I'm even afraid to drive it around the lot at work.