leon phelps

Hello,

Doing an LS1 conversion into a 65 Impala. My starter wires are sometimes on my exhaust. I have used the webbing that is around the O2 sensors to cover the starter wires. I am unsure if this is enough to stop the wires from eventually melting.

Any suggestions appreciated.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Even if they don't melt, as they become hotter the wires lose their ability to carry current, so if they (and the solenoid) become too hot you could end up with common non-starting-after-driving-and-sitting condition. Something to look into might be a painless/ madelectrical/ etc remote solenoid kit, running (and safely routing) newer, better wire to the starter. I'm going to do this next week if the parts come in.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

You can try some of the Heat shielding, like that Thermo-Tec heat sleeves or any other brand...

you can try running the wire through a alum tube then wrap it..

Bc

leon phelps

shouldnt the mesh around the O2 sensors do the same thing? I have yet to hear of these sensors not working from the wires melting.

FatfreeGTO

Leon do whatever you have to do to get those wires off your exhaust even if it means replacing the wires. Chuck is right on on this.

Hey Chuck i was just thinking about doing the "ford" solenoid as well. It seems that there could be a problem with run-on at the starter if you do it that way. This is a big issue with mini starters because they are permanent magnet starters. Apparently the LS starters are the same. I don't like the idea of the large live battery + at the starter but it seems like there isn't a way to get around that.


Why does my starter seem to "run on" after the switch is released?

This is a common complaint on Ford permanent magnet starters, although it can occur on any permanent magnet starter in the right conditions. This situation develops when the ignition terminal on the starter is "jumpered" to the battery terminal on the starter and a remote solenoid is used. Permanent magnet starters can actually produce power if they are driven from an outside source (i.e. the starter will act like an alternator once the engine fires and starts spinning). The current produced in the starter for this second or so will flow from the starter's battery terminal to the starters ignition terminal and hold the solenoid in. This will cause the one to two second delay in the solenoid release and an irritating noise. The solution is to wire the starter per the instruction sheet, which will ensure that the ignition switch terminal goes dead the instance the key is released.

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/faq-starter.html

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

That was kind of a concern of mine as well but I figured I'd rather it potentially run on than potentially not start. Whenever I get a minute I was going to call the madelectrical guy and see what he thinks; probably going to order his 'new system' and battery relocation stuff anyway.

psiconversion

iTrader: (5)

Agreed with FatfreeGTO, Ford Solenoid is going to give you starter run-on.

Jon
PSI

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I have a 1966 GTO with a 2006 GTO LS2 & T56 as well and I jumpered the battery terminal from the starter to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid with a two inch piece of 10 ga. wire and 2 ring terminals, I then have my battery cable running to the Ford solenoid I got from Autozone and the other battery side of the Ford solenoid to the car battery and my large purple wire from my original GTO harness goes to the "S" teminal of my Ford solenoid and it works fine, I do not have any unusual noises or starter run-on? I had purchased a kit from MAD Electrical a few years back for my chevelle and I liked how it worked I learned the hard way what happens when a live battery cable shorts out on a set of headers it was like the fourth of July under the hood by the time I pulled over and got the hood open and then burnt the crap out of my hand trying to disconnect the glowing red positve and negative cables and hoping the battery wouldnt blow up in my face as I was trying to get it disconnected. This time I decided I wasnt going to pay $30.00for a solenoid and a few pieces of wire and their little jumper piece of metal, I bought the solenoid at Autozone for like $12.00 and already had the wire and terminals.

It has worked fine on my GTO for over a 1000 miles so far, although the other day I went to start the car and it smoked by the solenoid, I traced it to when I hit the key and the battery cable that goes to the starter was slightly touching my homemade solenoid bracket a little trimming of the bracket took care of that, but it saved me that the battery cable was only live when i was turning the key.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

So, just for the sake of clarity are you saying the mad electrical stuff worked or did not work?

K11PER

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't worry about wrapping them as much as moving them/relocating wires to get off the exhaust and then covering them for good measure.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Man. Can't believe anyone would advocate using a remote solenoid as a safety back up for wire shorting to the headers. Route the wires and secure them such that they never touch the exhaust.

Also IMO if you are using a remote start solenoid to cut the power to the main starter lug you are doing it wrong. The idea is to cut down on resistance going to the stater motor. Adding a second set of contacts (one in the remote solenoid, the second still in the starter solenoid) is making things worse, not better.

All you need the remote start solenoid to do is provide a full voltage source for the S terminal. It bypasses all the potential bad connections in the key start switch circuit that can keep the starter solenoid from fully engaging (especially when hot). Remote solenoids usually have a second set of contact for switching the S circuit. Just use that and leave the big lugs disconnected. Has the added advantage of preventing starter run on.

In fact, I'm not sure why people use the heavy *** Ford relays in the first place. Why not use a standard relay to switch just the S terminal straight to the battery?

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Chuckd yes the mad solenoid worked fine, Summit also sells he same kit for even less, I just thought it was overpriced for what it is and I just made my own kit for my GTO following the mad design.

PopWood IMO the ford solenoid is just a better design and in the old days everybody used the ford solenoid on Chevys due to the starters and solenoid having heat soak problems due to the installation of headers, in a oem stock exhaust manifold it is usually not a issue. I just don't like the battery positive cable being live in a high heat, hard to access area, with the ford system the battery cable is only live during cranking. Another benefit was on a race motor where you are having to constantly adjust the valves due to a solid lifter motor it is a easy access point to connect a remote starter to just slightly bump the motor over for valve adjustments.