Pontiac Firebird 1967-2002 - Door Locks, Trunk release & Interior Lights not working.. Please Help!!
02-23-2012, 08:25 PM
Greetings fellow T-A & Firebird lovers,
I recently purchased a 2000 Ws6 and would appriciate it if anyone could help. My electric door locks will not work. When i press the unlock or lock button from inside the car, with the car on, instead of my doors unlocking my chime comes on when i press the unlock/lock and both doors. Also, my interior lights do not come on neither the rear one or the map ones in the mirror. I also noticed that the trunk release hatch does not open either. But instead when I press the button with the car on... again... instead of opening the hatch... the chime rings.....
Also... I read on the forum of people before having similar issues & I checked the courtesy fuse & it looks fine... Any advice would be appreciated
Any body... I was looking at other threads of people having issues with the bcm... or it possibly having a "hairline crack" which may be re sodered... but I'm thinking that I am getting power... due to the chime working when I press either the door unlocks or the trunk hatch with my drivers side door open.... any other suggesstions?...
I have also tried these features with my factory remote and still nothing happens... The only thing that happens is my lights go up and down when I click the unlock button.... =/
Just noticed... When I press my lock or unlock on my factory remote... The lights flash outside the vehicle... but the doors will not lock/unlock... hmmmmm.... anyone think it might be a simple wiring issue.... or the classic case of a bad/cracked bcm?....
02-25-2012, 11:35 AM
The hairline crack ..... I had a 97 TA, and the Windows, radio, lights, and a few other things were controlled by a relay on the BCM that had the crack. Sometimes they would work....sometimes not. I have fixed a few for people I have met. Easy to do. I have pics of this....but a the moment I can post them. I will be able to later. Not sure if this will help you out or not:
On the passenger side kick panel there are a few phillips screws that hold it in place, near the door. remove those. Remove the panel. Then there will be a little black "box" (retanngle) with a wire harness. Remove it. Open this thing up...its the BCM. Looks like a computer card. On it will be Relays. The way they are mounted, stress gets to them. Through vibrations, age, ect... They will get a HAIRLINR CRACK on them. I couldnt see one at forst, and thought this was B.S. So I took out my nikon camer, snaped a few picks of the connections, uploaded to my computer, and zoomed in. At that point I could see the cracks plain as day. Pulled out the soldering gun, heated up the solder and fixed the problem....and then added "extra" solder to it. When I post the pics you will see them. Look in my albums on my page. I MIGHT have a pic or two in there. Not sawing this is your problem....mine never chimed. Just didnt work at all when they acted up. TO ME.....I am thinking failed relay. BUT I am not 100% I will PM you when I post the pics. I am at work now, so the option is not there
02-25-2012, 12:28 PM
Thanks alot... I look forward to seeing the pictures... As for the relays... Is there any particular one that I should be looking at?
02-25-2012, 01:03 PM
I would look at the ones on the BCM for now, however they are soldered to the board. Never removed them, and not sure how hard it would be to do that.....but anything could be done. Now once you get the BCM cover off and the BCM still pluged up, try locking the doors....did the relay click? All relays that I know of click. I only GUESS that these would do the same. ALSO, do the doors lock with the door lock rocker switch?
02-25-2012, 02:57 PM
Cool... I will definetly check the BCM out and try that.... If i press the unlock/lock buttons on either door nothing happens.... except for the chime coming on... but I can lock/unlock the doors manually...either by moving the door lock/unlock lever front or back.... or i can lock/unlock with the key throught the outside.... also.... with regards to the soldering.... if i go to lowes/home depot... is there a specific type of solder that I should be looking for before I start on this project.. or any will do?....
I know these questions might seem a little dumb... but I am a beginner when it comes to electronics...
02-25-2012, 04:48 PM
Not sure what I have at the hous as far as solder goes, but I know its in a clear round tube, alittle bigger than a chap stick tube. They should have one that has flux on it "w/flux". If you dont see any like that.... get some flux as well. The solder I use is pretty thin as well. I wont be home until real late, so I will be able to see what it says in the morning and let you know the brand and specs as well.
02-26-2012, 03:22 PM
I removed the bcm today... and it appears that it has already been rewired before.... THere is 18 guage wire that the previous owner sodered in to solve the burn connections before... After attempting to do the same... I realized that it might be better off to buy a new or possibly re-manufactured unit....
If you install a re-manufactured BCM... Do they reset the settings when they are re-manufactured.. so that I can plug & play.... Or is there more to installing a re-manufactured bcm?.... :S
Also... Does anyone have any recommendations where to get a unit...
I preferably want a new one so that it can recognize my current key & re-program itself... or if the re-manufactured ones will work in the same way then I might buy one of those....
anyone have any advice on which one or where to buy to get the best deal?.....
the model # is: 09353691
02-26-2012, 07:58 PM
Sorry it took so long to get these pics up. Copy them to your computer, and you will be able to zoom in on the cracks.... look at the yellow circled area