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O2 sensor not responding

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Old 02-25-2012, 12:59 PM
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Default O2 sensor not responding

Well, I am stumped. This engine is a 5.7 ls1, ecm is a 2000 I haven't any idea where the harness came from but it apears to be A/M. It came with the block. The engine is rebuilt with mti x1 cam. The base tune was done by frost tunning. I found out that my bank 1 bank 2 wires were crossed when the harness was made. Bank 1 sensor 1 should be pur/wht, tan /wht. On the harness the bank 2 had the bank 1 wires. Pur/wht, tan/wht.

I switched them to the right pin outs at the ecm. Bank 2, o2 is working corectly M.v start at 450 and come down when the key is turned on. Bank 1 o2 stays at 450 m.v . Like it isn't connected. The o2 heater circut is working and gets hot on bank 1. I back probed the wires on bank 1, they are showing a complete circut. Red and blk wire on harness to bank 1 plug shows 12 volts and ground.

What am I missing. Sensors are new. I checked bank 1 o2 sensor and it does move between 0 and .5...

This engine is in a 68 camaro. Long tube headers. I know o2's don't last to long in long tubes. At leastthats what I have read.


Btw I am using hp tunners software.

Any help would be appreciated.

Larry

Last edited by IntercooledC6; 02-25-2012 at 01:08 PM.
Old 02-25-2012, 03:18 PM
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Update

Even though I tested the wires with a multi meter and wires showed good, the pin on the end of the wire was not making contact with the ecu. It was seated correctly. I found this out by running new jumper wire across to the ecm and when i pressed on the wire to probe it, it would connect properly. I have no explanation why this happened to that pin. Maybe when I switched the wires from bank to bank?

I had a simular problem with my TPS sensor connector. Once I replaced it, Then it worked fine.
I Hope this helps somebody out in the future. This little issue cost me about $120 on buying new sensors ect... when it was a wiring issue all along Lol...
Old 02-25-2012, 11:31 PM
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I've seen pins do that in fuse panels under dashboards before...can't find a wire continuity problem, no blown fuse...and something that just doesn't turn on (like a radio, or dash lighting). Glad you got it fixed, sorry I didn't see your post before you were spending money on sensors...but at least you have spares now, and piece of mind that you've got fresh sensors running the engine.
Old 02-26-2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
I've seen pins do that in fuse panels under dashboards before...can't find a wire continuity problem, no blown fuse...and something that just doesn't turn on (like a radio, or dash lighting). Glad you got it fixed, sorry I didn't see your post before you were spending money on sensors...but at least you have spares now, and piece of mind that you've got fresh sensors running the engine.
Thanks mike, That little problem had me going. I even switched ecm's thinking
it was the problem. I could have ruined my new engine when I first started it up do to the
Banks 1 and 2 wires being switched. It was just dumping fuel down the cylnders lol.

That harness was on a engine that had thrown a rod out the side of the block.
Go figure lol. It would never run correctly with banks 1 and 2 o2 wires switched.

I have learned alot thru this build.

Long live LS1Tech.com
Old 06-17-2012, 02:11 PM
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I know, old thread, but I had a very similar problem I've been troubleshooting all day. Turns out the heater pin wasn't seated all the way in the connector. Thanks for the follow up post IntercooledC6!
Old 06-17-2012, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by poss
I know, old thread, but I had a very similar problem I've been troubleshooting all day. Turns out the heater pin wasn't seated all the way in the connector. Thanks for the follow up post IntercooledC6!

I glad you got it straighten out.

That type of issue can be very expensive and very frustrating
Don't ask me how I know lol.

Last edited by IntercooledC6; 06-17-2012 at 08:31 PM.



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