ricky levins

Do they need to be replaced or will they still be good after I have them tanked? Along with the block and heads. My pops told me I should replace them but I figured I'd get ya'lls opinions cause he's been out of the hot rod scene for awhile. Here's some pics, of the block and heads and what not. I ain't even sure if I'm going to use these heads yet, I might try to find some 243s cause it'll be awhile before this motor goes in my car. This is a 5.3 too btw. This is the farthest I've ever even been into a motor so this is all a new learning experience, this website has been really helpful with info so far.

Drivers side

Passengers side

ZQ8LS1

iTrader: (3)

Those pistons are not looking good.

ANTICOP RAM AIR

iTrader: (7)

Why waste the time on a worn out stock piston?

Camaroking1996

Those cylinders dont look to healthy either..

ricky levins

Yeah thats what I was thinking on the pistons. I was lookin on texas speed and the pistons confused me, -4cc and this that and the other not sure about all that. What about the stock rods? Would they need to be tossed too or would they be good? And also the cylinders aren't as bad as the picture makes em out to be, that is where I sprayed em with wd-40 but I'm probably gonna bore it if need be.

ANTICOP RAM AIR

iTrader: (7)

first clean the block, see if it can be salvaged. It looks like that thing got hot as hell then sat for a while...

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

That thing definitely sat with water in the bores for a awhile. Getting those
rusted rings unstuck would take a near miracle...then the cylinders would
still need a lengthy honing procedure to produce a nice crosshatch for new
rings to seal. You may have best results with boring it out to 3.898" and
getting new hypereutectic 5.7 pistons, then rebalance the crank. It all
depends on the funds available.

ricky levins

How much would that run a guy? Funds aren't an issue I can just wait to build it, also how much would you have to bore it to get to that and would it be reliable?

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

From 3.78" to 3.898"======.118"

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

It likely is going to cost the same and is much smarter to get a ls1 longblock off Summit than build that motor. 3287.00 on Summit new from GM http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-88893287/
Scoggin Dickey has them even cheaper at 2999 and they claim to come with a 3 year warranty. http://sdparts.com/details/gm-goodwr...gines/88893287

ricky levins

And you could use the stock 5.3 crank and just get 5.7 pistons? Or would ya need a 5.7 crank? Sorry for all the questions

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

5.3 engines have the same stroke as LS1 so crank can be reused. With all that sludge and varnish though the heads might not be able to be reused and that block may be junk also. You can pay a shop 500 in machine work just to find that block is no good.

ScottyBG

The cranks are the same, only the bore is different. You could check out Thompson, sponsor at the side. They have packages using the 5.3 iron block, bored over to 3.90" if that is what you are interested in. That may be more cost effective than working with what you have there? Another option would be to look for another pull out in better shape? 5.3 pullouts are cheap, compared to parts and machine work. You can easily spend as much on a set of pistons as a nice low mileage 5.3 pullout. It depends on what your goal for this motor is.

ricky levins

I guess I'll just take it to get checked out, I hate to know its trashed I only have about $700 in it with the trans and harness so maybe it can be salvaged guess I'll see and go from there.

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

Also check the heads to make sure there not the 5.3 cast tech kind. There is a bulletin on them from GM for being porous and cannot be fixed no matter what.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

I would CLEAN CLEAN AND CLEAN.

ricky levins

I'm more than likely ditching those heads anyhow, just as well get some better flowing heads if I build this block up

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

Is this a iron or aluminum 5.3? I did not see it clarified anywhere. If its aluminum it can only be honed minimally and might not be enough to salvage. To fully do a block most machine shops charge about 500 and then you still have all the parts to buy. You can likely get a brand new iron 5.3 block for around 200 that does not need machine work.

CamaroSS27

iTrader: (6)

Ya that looks pretty torn up

ricky levins

Its iron block