underdog51

iTrader: (5)

I have a L33 in a Brunton Stalker. I am running a C&R double pass radiator. My engine wants to idle around 205-210 and during operation it hits 220. Is this normal? I am trying to figure out why these temps are so high. I am getting the temps Via scanner from obd2 port. My gauge reads 15 higher which really had me alarmed. thanks

Scott

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Sounds normal. The stock thermostat is up around 205 I think. They run it that high to lower emissions.

Try a lower thermostat temp. I have a 160° unit and temps generally stay within 15° of that. That is with a single pass, single core radiator out of an Astro van.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Are you also running a manual or electrical fan ?.. and yes, those 200'ish temp are normal for a stock engine if you have not changed the T-Stat and if electrically controlled, the ECM fan settings for high/low fans.

What gauge setup are you running that show the temp to be 15 degree higher ?

BC

74novacustom

My car refuses to run those temps! If im driving its about 170. i just put a Temp Controller on it. on at 180 off at 170 i believe, My fans have only been on twice since i put it on a week ago. I drive it every day. Thats when im sitting in traffic down town, but the fans cool it fast!. Griffin Dual Row alum. radiator and dual Ls1 Fans.

TomM

iTrader: (56)

You have air trapped in your system, did you fill it from the top hose initially?

T,

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Mine tops out at 208 at idle. Runs around 195-205.

I'd check for air in the system if it hits 220. I have to bleed mine from the steam pipes where they bolt to the heads every time I fill it up.

underdog51

iTrader: (5)

Radiator cap is right near the same level as the steam pipes. I stick a radiator funnel in the top which seals off and when i fill that up it is well above everything in the system. The first thing I do is loosen the rear steam vent caps and let fluid flow through for 5-10 seconds. Then I remove the hose from the front vents (which runs into the area behind the thermostat) and let it flow coolant out the steam vent and the hose from the water pump to bleed the air there.
I have tried removing the thermostat and clamping a 1/2" hole washer in to the hose for restriction and no change. I can't raise the radiator up so I am thinking of putting in a swirl pot to have an effective high point in the system. I have also read that possibly running lines from both the front and rear steam vents to a higher point may be more effective. At a track day this weekend I hit 228 and pulled it off the track. I know its pushing the engine hard but there is plenty of air flow between 60 and 130 mph. When I pulled into pit and shut the engine off it got even hotter and pushed coolant out the overflow.
It seems really weird to have the thermostat on the return side of the radiator and may be part of why these run hot. But on the other hand i removed the thermostat and added the restriction with no change.
any thoughts?

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

I've got a dual pass radiator, front steam lines (only) vented into the waterpump, stock t'stat shimmed to 170°. The heater loop is completely blocked in the "off" position, and the radiator fill is the high point. I've never bled the system, the car never runs over 175° even idling with the A/C in in 100° weather. You might try the swirl pot thingy, seems like having a high-point bleed whether inherent or fabricated may be your answer.