View Full Version : Using stock steering rack wo the pump in a race application


dnkynrbk
03-01-2012, 11:50 AM
Just wandered if anyone has just not used their power steering pump and took it off and used your stock steering rack and just made the hoses and loop into each other on the rack. Has anyone ran this vs doing a manual rack set up. The car is never driven on the street if anyone ask.

BlackScreaminMachine
03-01-2012, 12:04 PM
Trying to push something that is designed to use fluid to move makes it waaaay harder then it needs to be. IF your going that route, put a manual rack in it. Also if the car has a spool, I feel bad for you as trying to push a car that has that was incredibly tough @ 3000 race weight.

When driving, you should be "ok" but if your not making fwd progress and trying to turn, its very tough.

IF you can, disconnect the belt and drive it and see how you like it.

ATVracr
03-01-2012, 12:10 PM
Loop the line and you'll be fine. Drove mine like that for years.

TurboStangJON
03-01-2012, 01:41 PM
Loop the line and you'll be fine. Drove mine like that for years.

I did the same! Took a little muscle when at a stand still with the spool but it never bothered me.

Z28/2002
03-01-2012, 02:26 PM
Loop the line and you'll be fine. Drove mine like that for years.
:werd:

Been driving mine like that for almost 5 years

dnkynrbk
03-01-2012, 07:42 PM
Dam I knew I should have Pm you ATV. thanks guys for the help.

JL ws-6
03-02-2012, 08:00 AM
I ran mine like that, just cut the stock lines and put a loop of rubber hose on. Simple.

Does clean the engine bay up some and will get ya by until you feel like putting a manual rack in.

Street driving with a skinny tire will be fine, stock width 275 would be a bitch I would think, never tried that but I'm sure it wouldn't be a ton of fun trying to park the car anywhere.

midwestjunk
03-02-2012, 08:19 AM
^ JL are you running your belt like this?


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/savingcinderella/shortbeltmod.jpg

I am worried about throwing belts off at 7,000 rpm because of the small area the belt touches on the water pump. have you had any issues?

MM98
03-02-2012, 09:07 AM
^^Put your idler pulley back on & run a lil bit longer belt.

BlackScreaminMachine
03-02-2012, 09:09 AM
I agree with JL.

What I can say is running just a U/D pully, it was noticeable on turning with a hyd steering rack and stock Ws.6 17's. But with my 15 x 4 Convos turned very nice. Your just going to have to put more effort into it.

Just remember, everyone tolerance or what they can/want to deal with is different. Some love it, some hate it, some deal with it since its weight and cleans up the bay. Everyone needs to make the decision that works for them. If I ran skinnes and spool 100% of the time. I would just pony up for a K-member and appropriate rack and be done with it.

Just my 2 cents.

BlackScreaminMachine
03-02-2012, 09:11 AM
^ JL are you running your belt like this?


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/savingcinderella/shortbeltmod.jpg

I am worried about throwing belts off at 7,000 rpm because of the small area the belt touches on the water pump. have you had any issues?

I but a SLP U/D Pulley which has a high wall to avoid that or you can get a solid tensioner, should keep your in a good place. OR if your real worried, go for the elec W/P (race or street based on your needs)

Z28/2002
03-02-2012, 10:00 AM
midwestjunk

I run my setup like that with an underdrive pulley and a Katech adjustable tensioner, I've never thrown a belt and I used to shift my car at 7100-7200

foggedz
03-02-2012, 12:40 PM
I have been running my stock rack with the lines wide open for 8+ years. Street drive it like that for 6 years, and mainly a track only car the last 2. I have had no issues at all. I just took the fittings out of the rack, and ran it. Every car that I have seen with a actual manual rack has terrible turning radius. I area's that I can make a single turn they have to make multuple point turns.

tim99ws6
03-02-2012, 01:51 PM
I looped mine for a few years. It definitely takes a little effort, but nothing that you can't handle. At speed you really dont even notice it.

JL ws-6
03-02-2012, 02:33 PM
^ JL are you running your belt like this?


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/savingcinderella/shortbeltmod.jpg

I am worried about throwing belts off at 7,000 rpm because of the small area the belt touches on the water pump. have you had any issues?

No I never did it that way. I had an electric water pump on (race type without the stupid idler on it) and just ran the BMR alt bracket. Only thing I had to do was have the bracket milled down the thickness of the motor plate so that it would line up right. Wasn't a big deal local machinist did it for 20 bucks.

If I didn't have the motor plate I would have ran it the same way, and if I had to run the belt to the water pump like you are, as already stated I would put the other idler back on and get some more wrap on the water pump that way, and probably run a solid tensioner anyway just to be safe. Not sorth throwing that belt, thing can fly off and hit other stuff, damage something, etc. For the cost of the solid tensioner I would just do it.

95killerz
03-02-2012, 07:50 PM
Does anyone know what thread the fiittings are I was planning on looping mine for now, I'll get a manual rack when I do the front suspension in the future

TurboStangJON
03-02-2012, 08:45 PM
Does anyone know what thread the fiittings are I was planning on looping mine for now, I'll get a manual rack when I do the front suspension in the future

I have a manual rack but I would like to know this also for future reference on other cars. I tried to find a fitting to loop mine and Napa told me it was metric and they didn't have any fittings for that application.

RENE'S RAGE
03-03-2012, 05:01 PM
What exactly is the purpose of the BMR alt relocation bracket.
Anyone with a pic.

TurboStangJON
03-04-2012, 09:34 AM
What exactly is the purpose of the BMR alt relocation bracket.
Anyone with a pic.

It allows you to swing the alternator in order to tighten the belt down. In other words you don't run a tensioner and the belt tension is adjusted like an old school belt setup. I only run an alternator so it works out pretty nice plus eliminates the weight of the factory bracket an any other useless pullies.

dnkynrbk
03-04-2012, 11:56 AM
someone post up a picture of how thier belt is looped

ls1ya
03-04-2012, 01:28 PM
ran mine without the pump for 2 years. No problems. Just leave the tensioner and run a shorter belt.

RacerXLs1
03-04-2012, 01:33 PM
Good info here guys, I'm glad this came up...

Z28/2002
03-04-2012, 09:13 PM
someone post up a picture of how thier belt is looped
Mine is routed just like the picture posted

RENE'S RAGE
03-05-2012, 06:57 PM
It allows you to swing the alternator in order to tighten the belt down. In other words you don't run a tensioner and the belt tension is adjusted like an old school belt setup. I only run an alternator so it works out pretty nice plus eliminates the weight of the factory bracket an any other useless pullies.

Thanks, I always wondered, because it's left in the same location.

dnkynrbk
03-11-2012, 12:28 PM
anyone have any other pics on how they ran their belt. With the no powersteering pump way. thanks

02sleeperz28
03-19-2012, 04:29 AM
Wish I would have known about this before I got my manual rack.

subhumanzz
03-19-2012, 04:49 AM
My belt is routed the same as pictured. Shifted at 7900 with no problems.

Camaro396
12-28-2012, 01:03 PM
I looped mine and have no issues turning it. Tougher than stock obviously but my GF drives the car just fine. Sounds like you have a rack issue.

1999transamls1
12-29-2012, 11:42 AM
It's somewhat better now, but it's pretty easy to turn right, but quite a bit harder to turn left, not sure what's up with it

MUSTANGBRKR02
12-30-2012, 12:24 PM
I think rackdoctordotcom makes a manual rack out of your stock one for cheap too.

StangEaterSS
12-28-2013, 04:53 PM
It's somewhat better now, but it's pretty easy to turn right, but quite a bit harder to turn left, not sure what's up with it

I would assume because the fluid is being compressed w nowhere to go in the one direction. Maybe drain the rack and run it wide open w no fittings like foggedz did. May turn easier.

manfred717
01-07-2014, 12:16 PM
Anyone have a pic of which lines to loop and did you guys drain all the fluid out?

DietCoke
01-07-2014, 12:54 PM
Open the rack up, cut off the hydraulic seal, put it back together and weld or RTV the ports shut. That way you aren't fighting hydraulic pressure. My rack is done like this and drives fine on the street. Much less effort then a looped rack