Drag Racing Tech - Drag Bar ripped from frame. OOPS!!

I guess it wasn't welded good enough or not in the right place.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg15/coker112/photobucket-3523-1331165576750.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg15/coker112/photobucket-5324-1331165715397.jpg

Added a little extra material. Hope it stays now.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg15/coker112/photobucket-4152-1331166036360.jpg

who's drag bar is it cuz my drag bar bracket is different its a umi drag bar

damn, was it fully welded before?

damn, was it fully welded before?

Looks like there were an abundance of stress risers, with the incomplete weld passes, and questionable penetration..........The new install looks a lot better.

Its a MWC bar.

It was hard to get to the inside of the bracket to weld. So only thee sides were welded. This was on a 4500 launch, wheel hopped twice and broke. May have happened just as the nitrous came on too.

Just tape it itll hold.

Was that JB Weld? :lol: Nice carnage!

Didn't have enough heat in the welds. There's no penetration onto the frame.

Agree with the others.... bad weld with no penetration

It ripped the top layer off the frame all the way around the outside of the weld. I didn't know there where different layers until now. The metal you can see is the next layer!!!

Ya who welded that?

it took off the top layer of metal. holy crap!

it looks decieving in the photo, but everyone IS seeing the metal is literally torn off the frame right?

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e147/cls-chicago/9a9876ac.jpg

yes it penetrated fine, but this is why I install angle iron pieces for that tab, so it is fully welded all the way around the curved part of the frame and makes it stronger as well. It tore the first layer of the "frame" off the chassis.

I guess because i saw it in person it was easier to see.

I put a plate on the frame rails there where the tabs for my wolfe went on, probably a good thing now after seeing that!

But, the weld didn't penetrate thru the first layer into the 2nd, from the look of that the first weld didn't have enough heat in it, if ya had cranked the welder up another power setting or 2, and it probably wouldn't have happened. Even if you had to stitch weld it, it would have been better off that way.

I put a plate on the frame rails there where the tabs for my wolfe went on, probably a good thing now after seeing that!

But, the weld didn't penetrate thru the first layer into the 2nd, from the look of that the first weld didn't have enough heat in it, if ya had cranked the welder up another power setting or 2, and it probably wouldn't have happened. Even if you had to stitch weld it, it would have been better off that way.

JL I'm all for people questing things, and tring stuff. Not they just coping the 1st guy to do something, or whats easier and cheaper. But you always compare something to your car that I dont think you even race anymore? And thats has nothing to do whats really going on with the thread if you read the post. You look at what he did to fix it, the angle iron with the plug weld, is way better then your plate. And its on a plate too. That spot is covers in the think under coating so you can't see whats there. But it's a bunch of channel and L shape profiles over lapping, and there just spot welded. Be fore it ripped the outer layer off if you would have noticed it was pulling the layer off, and flexing it to the spot weld till it rips them off ( the 3 white spots)
You can just weld the taps to a plate ans weld them on, but you if you get the the under coating off you can see the edges of the spot welded layers you want to weld up, and down that area.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/Picture022.jpg

What kind of welder do you have you can turn it up 2 setting and weld behind stuff? And not just bast thu the ends of sheet metal. I need to get one of those.

Pal my junks going to be running soon enough, I want to see you build a 25.3 car with bottom 7 second capability on a working mans budget.....Take you a while to do it as well without whacking a credit card.

Wolfe supplied a set of similar tabs with their anti rollbar, which were deemed not strong enough when the bar went on, so a set of plates about 3in by 2 in we're weed to the frame.... Total contact was about 500% more then the tabs would provide, and we drilled 1/4 inch holes in the plates, and in the body, and filled the holes. Back up with weld. If the proper heat was used, there would have been better penetration thru to the 2 nd layer as well, can be done with any adjustable mig. I wouldn't call that blowing thru the metal if you are making a solid joint with multiple layers of material.

:corn:

Your junk is coming along fine, can't wait to see it after it gets out of Fab.

Before someone jumps all over that, roll cage work I have done for a reason.... That's my life if there's a bad crash and it fails. I leave that to a pro, pictures coming soon, the tubing is going in the car right now.... Rear frame needed a lot of notching to fit the tires and pull them in where I wanted them. 6 inches off both tubes, to give a rough idea for those that have done it.