1971 stock 350 on boost
03-14-2012, 12:41 PM
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1971 stock 350 on boost As stated in the title stock everything. It's finally put together, but I'm having a issue trying to set the timing. I have a MSD BTM & a stock HEI dist. Some say weld the sliding plates in the dist before I try & set the timing. Can anyone help?!
03-14-2012, 02:20 PM
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Lock the advance and the btm sucks get the summit brand Mallory digital. Next weak link is bearings solve that with king bearings and a high volume high pressure oil pump. Then your pistons will start cracking, buy some cheap forged ones and then at 700hp you'll start cracking blocks.
03-17-2012, 09:56 AM
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How long this lives really depends on what stock parts are in the motor. If you are lucky enough to have an 010 block with a forged steel crank then this thing could last forever.
Some years back we built a 355 SBC. It had a chevy steel crank, Pink rods, and a cheap set of blower pistons that cost $300 back then. The head were stock chevy casting that I hacked up (errr ported) at home and a professional products Victory Jr ripoff Manifold that I converted to EFi. With a pair of misc Holset's we got off a couple of semi trucks at the scrap yard the motor made 620 at the wheels thru a th400 and a 9in.
That motor is still alive today in a buddies Chevelle and gets driven about 10K miles a year. I put 30K on it when I had it and my buddies put another 30K at least and it runs fine.
With all the SBC's we've put together over the years I've never found breaking of the 010 block on a turbo application and we've built some serious motors. The best HP we ever saw was mid 800's on a chassis dyno from a 355 with all forged parts and a killer top end. That motor lasted a full season in a true street car before he built a Dart block with the same top end and retired the short block. However The block will typically scatter it's self all over the place around 650-700HP in a nitrous application.
You need to know what;s in the motor before you can determine how much abuse it will take.
If it's a 2 bolt, cast crank, stock rods and pistons then I would stop around 500HP. If it's a 4 bolt with a forged crank and decent rods then 700-800 hp won't be a problem.
Some years back we built a 355 SBC. It had a chevy steel crank, Pink rods, and a cheap set of blower pistons that cost $300 back then. The head were stock chevy casting that I hacked up (errr ported) at home and a professional products Victory Jr ripoff Manifold that I converted to EFi. With a pair of misc Holset's we got off a couple of semi trucks at the scrap yard the motor made 620 at the wheels thru a th400 and a 9in.
That motor is still alive today in a buddies Chevelle and gets driven about 10K miles a year. I put 30K on it when I had it and my buddies put another 30K at least and it runs fine.
With all the SBC's we've put together over the years I've never found breaking of the 010 block on a turbo application and we've built some serious motors. The best HP we ever saw was mid 800's on a chassis dyno from a 355 with all forged parts and a killer top end. That motor lasted a full season in a true street car before he built a Dart block with the same top end and retired the short block. However The block will typically scatter it's self all over the place around 650-700HP in a nitrous application.
You need to know what;s in the motor before you can determine how much abuse it will take.
If it's a 2 bolt, cast crank, stock rods and pistons then I would stop around 500HP. If it's a 4 bolt with a forged crank and decent rods then 700-800 hp won't be a problem.
Last edited by dell; 03-17-2012 at 10:01 AM.
03-17-2012, 11:51 AM
#6
Go over to the turbo forums and look up "how long till it grenades". He did some amazing stuff with a stock truck motor trying to blow it up and never did. Car was running mid to low 9's with a shot of nitrous on top. Every motor is different but it goes to show that with a good tune and good fuel you can push stock motors pretty hard.
