litle88

iTrader: (20)

I dont know how big of an oil cooler to run, Im almost done installing my new set up (see Sig) and I know I want to run an oil cooler because we know Ls3's run a lil hot. But Im not sure how big of oil cooler I should use? I ordered the improved racing slim oil cooler adapter and will be getting the thermostat as well, It will see mostly street time and Its only out in the summer here in Chicago. I would appreciate it if you would chime in and tell me about your set up and if possible post up some pics of your set up as well.

Thanks

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Look up "stacked plate oil cooler" That is the style you need.

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Thanks bud but do you know what size?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

You need a thermostat on this deal you know that right? EDIT never mind lol, reading rules me.

If you put the cooler where it can get a good bit of air you can use the smaller one, if not the larger.

If you are not road racing, running on the topside for extended periods of time or track daying this car I see no need for a cooler. Just my 2 cents.

I trackday my LS1 and dont have a cooler, I do change the oil every 2 events though and am looking into a cooler now as my driving is getting a little better.


EDIT 2, mount it like the instructions say. Fittings mounted on the side, hot oil in the top fitting. Dont mount the cooler with both fittings facing down or up, always to the side on this style cooler(Or so I read it somewhere)

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Sorry I didnt mention that but hell yea I will be heading out to the track now that I got my 9" lol I say once or twice a month. But with my mods and this heat here I think I will be needing it. Its all out and I have access to everything so while im in might as well add some insurance you know?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Drag racing and road course(Trackday's) are totally different. Trackday's are 30 minutes at a time wide open, drag racing 10-15 seconds at a time.

IMO, you are just adding un needed weight and the possibility of leaks to a car that doesn't need it.

Just run a good synthetic oil(Redline, Royal Purple etc.) you will be fine.

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Lol I know the difference between the two tracks bud, I'm not too concerned with weight and as far as leaks go I will be connecting them the right way so we'll see I'm ordering the B&M 70268 and derale 180* thermostat.

If anyone else has pics of their setup I'd appreciate that too!
Fastfatboy thanks for the chimes if you think of other stuff please chime in. Let me know what you think of those parts.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Agreed for the plate style cooler. The finned tube coolers are like half as efficient.

It's tough mounting coolers on a 'bird. I removed the washer bottle to mount oil & trans coolers.

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Got pics?

stock01ws6

you can use the c6z06, or the zr1. the z06 cooler will bolt right on the car using the z06 lines. the zr1 cooler is way more pricey and takes up more room. It bolts to the block just like the z06 but you have to remove a freeze plug. then run a hose from it to one fitting on the cooler and the other hose taps in the driver side rad hose. I would use one of these coolers do to the fact its OEM.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I'd be very curious to see if you can get that oil cooler adapter to work with f-body headers, especially ones with 2" primaries. I had 1-7/8" Kooks headers on my Camaro, and there just wasn't any room above the filter to run an adapter like that due to how the primaries are run. An oil cooler was something I had always wanted to do before I sold it, but I never got to it due to the amount of work (and money) it would have required to do it right.

crunkride

Can we get some feedback on this?

Derale 10 rows are on sale at Jegs right now...curious to know the right size, concerned about pressure losses also. (Road race setup LS1 swapped 240sx)

RGSS

iTrader: (2)

Used Dorman replacement lines for oil cooler adapter



First approach on install



Cut to size, flared with tube sleeve and tube nut



Used an AN8 T fitting for a custom oil temp sender install





Did not have another AN8 tube nut availiable, so I modified a Brass flare nut to accomodate the aluminum sender adapter



Header clearence after a little massage. this is with KOOKS HEADERS 1 7/8 primaries

RGSS

iTrader: (2)

This is the oil cooler I am using:
It is an EARLS stacked plate unit.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

How hot is your ls3 running and when you say hot are you talking about coolant temp or oil temp? My days are numbered with my motor so im planning on going with something like your motor.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

RG, your work looks great!

I think you should insulate the lines at the header tubes with some heat wrap or something.

I'd like to do the same but with -10 lines. And a remote filter.

onefast84

Do you really need -10an or is -8an sufficient? At which point do you need to move up to -10an? Just curious as I have not run a cooler. I have one sitting on the shelf and was thinking about installing it with some extra -8an line i have sitting around. RGSS what is the part number or application for the cooler lines?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

GM's oil cooler lines are typically the equalvlant to 1/2 inch which is a -8. Many of the better aftermarket kits are -10.

onefast84

I am just wondering if -8an is ok spinning 7000 RPM. If I have to spend $100 for -10an to plum it. I may just leave well enough alone. There is a bypass anyway isn't there. Sorry to highjack the thread, but its a good discussion on oil coolers.

RGSS

iTrader: (2)

Dorman lines:
They do have an internal bypass in case of too much pressure drop.
Ive always used AN8 in my oil cooler lines.