Forced Induction - Total cost of procharger for my car?

Ok so I want to start with the D-1sc procharger kit from brute speed. From what I see this kit is pretty much complete for $6700 shipped. It has the extra fuel components and stuff so hopefully I shouldn't have to spend way to much more. Here is the list

•ATI 1GJ204-SCI D-1SC Serpentine Race Kit with larger head unit options
•Siemens 60lb Fuel Injectors with 80lb Siemens option
•Walbro GSS340 Fuel Pump with 2nd pump option
•ATI Performance Products 918853 Harmonic Balancer
•ATI ProCharger Crank Pinning Kit

I would like to stay with stock heads and cam, stock short block, so pretty much full stock internal engine. I want to run 8-9 psi and make from 480-500rwhp. If I figure in dynotune, gauges, boost controller and other misc parts will run me another $1200 so I should be looking at about $7800-8k to get this thing running reliable with my desired rwhp above. Is this about right? Anybody add in what they think I will need to and what you think it will cost to get this running "reliablly" with 480-500rwhp? I just want this to last me a year or so until I can save up for a forged motor. Shortly after installing the procharger I will aslo likely buy a built flt tranny to hold the power, but right now I just want to know everything I need to get the engine running reliable with the procharger for minimum cost. I want to start out with the stock motor and not make crazy power and later down the road I will go forged and run high boost. Does 8k sound about right? Add w/e else you guys think will be necesary. I have full bolt-ons right now.

No boost controller required. Tune is going to run about $650.00+

Plan on 9-10k buying all new parts.

How are you thinking 9-10k? Give me a parts list that adds up to 10k.

Can find good price on used kits going for half the price that would be your best bet unless you don't mind spending that much

How could it be so expensive? I know a local guy selling a complete p1sc which is fine for the power you want for $2500. Get some used 60lb inj for $200 - $250, about $400 for dual Walbro setup. Tune... You can get hp tuners for $750 and tune it yourself. If you spend 9 - 10k your doing it wrong. I bought my 98ss for 10k with full suspension, nice wheels, built 408 with pt88 turbo full 4 inch exhaust, twin disc clutch, built 6 speed.

. I bought my 98ss for 10k with full suspension, nice wheels, built 408 with pt88 turbo full 4 inch exhaust, twin disc clutch, built 6 speed.[/QUOTE]

Wat jealous :engarde: to other person, you can find a built car like above, and also find good deals on used.. I would look through the classifieds..

No boost controller required. Tune is going to run about $650.00+

WOWZA! Where are you going?? I've been getting away with murder for the past 5 years then :D

How could it be so expensive? I know a local guy selling a complete p1sc which is fine for the power you want for $2500. Get some used 60lb inj for $200 - $250, about $400 for dual Walbro setup. Tune... You can get hp tuners for $750 and tune it yourself. If you spend 9 - 10k your doing it wrong. I bought my 98ss for 10k with full suspension, nice wheels, built 408 with pt88 turbo full 4 inch exhaust, twin disc clutch, built 6 speed.

I am into my setup about 10K. Includes tune, turbo kit, fuel system, wheels, tires, gauges, LCA's, built trans with stall and HP Tuners...tuned as well. All this was installed by myself. But keep in mind the cost of the SC kit and everything else.

I am into my setup about 10K. Includes tune, turbo kit, fuel system, wheels, tires, gauges, LCA's, built trans with stall and HP Tuners...tuned as well. All this was installed by myself. But keep in mind the cost of the SC kit and everything else.

Yes, but I'm not talking about that. I already have wheels, lca's, drag shocks, dr's, full engine bolt-ons, etc, etc... And this kit for $6700 comes with the upgraded fuel components needed. I plan on getting built FLT trans shortly after the procharger, but that's not the question I'm asking. I think I can do the full procharger for under $8k new. Or I might just do what was mentioned above and find a good used kit. I am a certified mechanic, but I really don't have any experience with boost so buying a used kit and coming up short on parts scares me a bit.

Best bet make a list of what you need and start with looking for a used kit that has everything on the list you need. If you rather buy a new kit because it has everything and it will be new out a box then go that route either way you should be fine. I personally would buy it used.. Save more money that way

Best bet make a list of what you need and start with looking for a used kit that has everything on the list you need. If you rather buy a new kit because it has everything and it will be new out a box then go that route either way you should be fine. I personally would buy it used.. Save more money that way

This is looking like my best bet. Than I will have money to build the trans at the same time

It can be overwhelming at first, but it sounds like your on the right path. Jut double...tripple check your list before making any purchases. I've been around boosted cars for a while now and it still can be a headache sometimes.

I would recommend a used kit also. I pieced my kit together bc i went with a front mount set up. If you have any questions, talk to bob beam at brute speed. He has helped me out a lot. I couldnt see you going over more than 6K if you pieced a kit together. im at about 7k and i did cam, springs, pushrods, oil pump, timing set. Just take your time and allow some wiggle room in your budget bc its the nickel and dime stuff that adds up real quick.

I would personaly try and get everything that uvwill will need even when u go forged and up the boost so u dnt have to repurchase everything like injectors might as well get 80s or u will be buying them down the road after u go forged and up the powaaa. And also a nice dual pump setup with rails lines and a fmfpr. Just my 2 cents

I did not read this thread entirely because Im on break, but let me go ahead and give you the run down, as I am still in the process of building my procharged car. I have not bought all this yet, but I have the estimates all saved, and I am open to suggestion. I am working on the new motor now, then the fuel, and tranny and rear end. Then ill grab some slicks and hit the track.

D1sc kit from Bob---6700
Lonnies Double pumper with steel braided lines and regulator and fuel rails---$1180
Stage 5 4l60e from FLT is $2000
MWC 9'' Rear end and suspension to handle that newfound power---$3700
New AES 390 since I blew the stock ls1 on the dyno during tuning....$8400--Fully Assembled Longblock with heads and cam ready to be dropped in the engine bay.
Miscellaneous tools and products for install--$120
Aster Bracket for Belt Stability is $750
3.4 blower pulley $60


So I would say ALL IN ALL with everything needed to run it properly, and using new parts, it is around 14-15k and that was before the motor was added in. These kits can be run with minimalist concepts in mind, but I am all about longevity and having things done right, and this all relates back to the sticky at the top of the FI section labeled the Real Cost Of Forced Induction. Take those figures and subtract the things you will decide not to use or do without as long as possible and there is your number. Hope this helps.

8 rib D1SC kit with 4.5" I/c's and polished plenium from Bob at Brute speed. Installed it myself. Single pump wouldn't keep up so went with twins from Lonnie. 750 for a lifetime tune from g-force. I also put in an extra spal fan to help keep it cool, and arp head studs. Of course this doesn't count the needed clutch drivetrain or rear end needed to put down the power. Made 562/505 sae corrected on 7.5 psi I was just stating what it actually cost ME not a hypothetical build with used parts FI is not cheap

Oh and I forgot the boost and fuel pressure gauges which were several hundred with pillar pod

I8UR4RD very much agree with your post!! Longevity and having things done right, this is what I took into mind when going FI myself. I am not saying there is anything wrong with used parts at all. Even with new parts there are QC issues. Its a piece of mind to be able to return it if not right when buying new.

Oh and I forgot the boost and fuel pressure gauges which were several hundred with pillar pod

yeah i did too...haha. been so long since i have had them in...havent even drove the car with them on. wideband 02 was 180 the pod was 60 and the others were 50 a piece. i also paid to have them installed because I hate wiring. so there is at least 350-400 there.

I got mine from procharger and they look great. Made by auto meter. We're not cheap though lol

I got mine from procharger and they look great. Made by auto meter. We're not cheap though lol

Can u take a night shot of them with them on ive been lookin at them and curious as how they look.

Alright so here is the pricing I've figured up... $12,500 total

Forged rotating assembly installed-$3200
Brute Speed pro kit-$6700
Flt LVL 5 tranny-$2000
Dyno tune-$500

I have about 28k into my f1a build that didn't include trans and rearend.

I have about 28k into my f1a build that didn't include trans and rearend.

I would geuss u have a 7-8 sec car?

Nah that's for new longblock motor f1a kit with fmic,aster bracket,big red race valve,all the gauges gaskets and so on all new fuel system going into my 02 SS that's also having it all done professionally so it's tuned and everything.

But I'm also doing this so if I wanted to I can drive anywhere without a hiccup.
Can it be done for cheaper sure would it be reliable dought it plus if I need to I can still turn it up. Cars going to be 3800lbs with 800-950rwhp drive anywhere car, not just a drag car.

I just did this last summer so it's really fresh in my mind. I spent around 9500 in parts. D1SC, FMIC, fuel pump, injectors, AlkyControl meth kit, big red race bypass valve, hardened push rods, valve springs, Autometer triple pillar pod with fuel, vacuum/boost, and A/F gauges, fuel pump with hot wire kit, 160 thermo stat with LS2 water pump, Aster tensioner bracket, custom AL intake off the head unit, and a few odd and end things.

I got well over 10K just in the procharger and necc equipment to make the procharger work. not counting motor,trans,converter,rearend.

Yeah it bites when you go over 700rwhp because you need to redo whole fuel system that over a grand right there.

But I'm also doing this so if I wanted to I can drive anywhere without a hiccup.
Can it be done for cheaper sure would it be reliable dought it plus if I need to I can still turn it up. Cars going to be 3800lbs with 800-950rwhp drive anywhere car, not just a drag car.

Yea and I can see where the differences in my setup and yours come in

Your motor I will guess 10k? Mine 3200 to put in forged internals.
Your f1 kit probably 9k? Mine would be $6700
Your paying to have installed 1-2k? Mine will be free by myself.

I think I could do it all right for $12,500. Or I could run 8lbs of boost and run on stock tranny and engine until tranny gives and have like $7500 in it and fix stuff as it breaks. I know the tranny won't last long with the extra power. I would think on 8lbs of boost the engine would be able to go for a long long time if everything was right.

id forge the motor first. cuz then youll just be taking the whole procharger kit back off. thats what i was told to do, and i didnt listen. thought my motor would last at least long enough to save the money for internals. 4 dyno pulls later she was gone.

id forge the motor first. cuz then youll just be taking the whole procharger kit back off. thats what i was told to do, and i didnt listen. thought my motor would last at least long enough to save the money for internals. 4 dyno pulls later she was gone.

That doesn't make any sense for an ls engine to only go 4 pulls though. Something had to have been wrong with the engine before or the dyno shop messed up badely.

I have stock internals on 8 psi and have put about 6K miles on my set-up. Been running flawlessly. I only had 17K miles on the car when I installed it though. Plenty of people running around 8 psi on LS1's for years and years. It's usually when you increase boost upwards of 11-12 psi with stock internals where I've seen issues. Typically it's the pistons that go first. Of course, like any FI build, the tune is key.

I have stock internals on 8 psi and have put about 6K miles on my set-up. Been running flawlessly. I only had 17K miles on the car when I installed it though. Plenty of people running around 8 psi on LS1's for years and years. It's usually when you increase boost upwards of 11-12 psi with stock internals where I've seen issues. Typically it's the pistons that go first. Of course, like any FI build, the tune is key.

I just hit 48k.. I would think if I went 7-8lbs tops and did the meth injection it should last a good bit... Hell I might even go 6-7lbs. I just think it would be alot of fun hearing the procharger and feeling it pull. And than when I save up some more $ I will go ahead and upgrade the tranny and go forged internals

I put down 500rwhp and it feels like hell on wheels to me, especially since it hooks really hard. With 1-7/8 LT's, 3" ORY, LMII and the open bypass valve it sounds pretty sick. I did the opposite though. I built the car from the ground up before adding power. Wanted to be able to plant the power and not worry about the rear, clutch, tranny etc. So far so good.

I put down 500rwhp and it feels like hell on wheels to me, especially since it hooks really hard. With 1-7/8 LT's, 3" ORY, LMII and the open bypass valve it sounds pretty sick. I did the opposite though. I built the car from the ground up before adding power. Wanted to be able to plant the power and not worry about the rear, clutch, tranny etc. So far so good.

That's what i did as well. OP i think you'll be fine if you can stay around 7-8 lbs but again it may last it may not, needs a great tune and meth for sure. if you can live with the smaller boost til you can get it forged should be fun.

Alright so here is the pricing I've figured up... $12,500 total

Forged rotating assembly installed-$3200
Brute Speed pro kit-$6700
Flt LVL 5 tranny-$2000
Dyno tune-$500

You need to add in 9 inch rear end, torque arm, drive shaft and loop. Easy $3+K here but easy to install at home.

You need to add in 9 inch rear end, torque arm, drive shaft and loop. Easy $3+K here but easy to install at home.

I don't think the rear will break. I have an auto and I never launch it hard unless at the track and I hardly ever make it to the track....

Op...I ran my D1SC kit on my stock bottom end for over 50K miles. I was running 10psi with methanol and was laying down 590/563 and I by no mean babied her lol. I think your allotments are pretty on par but always remeber to set a little extra aside or incendetals IE Fluids, Vaccum caps, New plugs and wires etc. Its all in the tune...if you have a real good tuner....your FAR less likely to have an issue. Its typically the ring land that lets loose on # 7 due to a lean condition. I would just plan to have that trans show up pretty soon after completing the install haha

Op...I ran my D1SC kit on my stock bottom end for over 50K miles. I was running 10psi with methanol and was laying down 590/563 and I by no mean babied her lol. I think your allotments are pretty on par but always remeber to set a little extra aside or incendetals IE Fluids, Vaccum caps, New plugs and wires etc. Its all in the tune...if you have a real good tuner....your FAR less likely to have an issue. Its typically the ring land that lets loose on # 7 due to a lean condition. I would just plan to have that trans show up pretty soon after completing the install haha

LOL yea I'm not thinking it will last too long. I really think I might pull the trigger soon and just tune it safely at 6 psi untill I can afford the forged internals. I mean 6 psi should make about the same power as my 100 shot does I would think and than with the d1sc after I build my motor and trans I can push 12psi or so and make a shit tone more power. And while I leave it on 6psi it should be plenty of fun