Fresh turbo back from T-netics leaking oil....WTF??
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Fresh turbo back from T-netics leaking oil....WTF??
Hey guys. I'm dealing with a freaking nightmare turbo here. Got this thing used and found out it was blown. Go figure. Sent it back to turbonetics and they did a complete rebuild on it, and basically replaced everything. $850 later, I get it back and all bolted back up on the car. I fired it up and let it run till warm, and notice an oil drop on the ground. After feeling around, the bottom of the turbo was wet. Figured it was the drain line but it's not. It's actually seaping oil from where the compressor housing bolts to the center section. WTF.
I have a -4 feed and -10 return. 45* fitting off the bottom of the turbo into a downward sloped line and into the pan above the oil level. Sounds like a correct setup to me. It's a 76mm ball bearing turbo. No oil restrictor because T-netics didn't recommend one. I've got about 30 psi at idle for oil pressure, and am currently running 5w-30 synthetic in the motor (heavier oil maybe??). I really hope someone can give me some good tips to try so I don't have to ONCE AGAIN, ship this god forsaken thing back to turbonetics.
I have a -4 feed and -10 return. 45* fitting off the bottom of the turbo into a downward sloped line and into the pan above the oil level. Sounds like a correct setup to me. It's a 76mm ball bearing turbo. No oil restrictor because T-netics didn't recommend one. I've got about 30 psi at idle for oil pressure, and am currently running 5w-30 synthetic in the motor (heavier oil maybe??). I really hope someone can give me some good tips to try so I don't have to ONCE AGAIN, ship this god forsaken thing back to turbonetics.
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Im having the same problem, but running a scavaging pump from turbowerx. Ive got a thread a lines down, it appears my 6an drain running into my pump is too small and could be causing my issue. Mine is a 3an into the turbo 6an out...leaks out the back of the housing. Attached a pic of my 'problem', also found small amount of oil in the innercooler when I took it off for inspection.
#4
Hey guys. I'm dealing with a freaking nightmare turbo here. Got this thing used and found out it was blown. Go figure. Sent it back to turbonetics and they did a complete rebuild on it, and basically replaced everything. $850 later, I get it back and all bolted back up on the car. I fired it up and let it run till warm, and notice an oil drop on the ground. After feeling around, the bottom of the turbo was wet. Figured it was the drain line but it's not. It's actually seaping oil from where the compressor housing bolts to the center section. WTF.
I have a -4 feed and -10 return. 45* fitting off the bottom of the turbo into a downward sloped line and into the pan above the oil level. Sounds like a correct setup to me. It's a 76mm ball bearing turbo. No oil restrictor because T-netics didn't recommend one. I've got about 30 psi at idle for oil pressure, and am currently running 5w-30 synthetic in the motor (heavier oil maybe??). I really hope someone can give me some good tips to try so I don't have to ONCE AGAIN, ship this god forsaken thing back to turbonetics.
I have a -4 feed and -10 return. 45* fitting off the bottom of the turbo into a downward sloped line and into the pan above the oil level. Sounds like a correct setup to me. It's a 76mm ball bearing turbo. No oil restrictor because T-netics didn't recommend one. I've got about 30 psi at idle for oil pressure, and am currently running 5w-30 synthetic in the motor (heavier oil maybe??). I really hope someone can give me some good tips to try so I don't have to ONCE AGAIN, ship this god forsaken thing back to turbonetics.
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I'll be honest with you.....I doubt its the turbo. Something has to be up in the oil system. Once they swap the piston ring out to a new one, that is all they can do to the turbo. If its leaking then oil is somehow being pushed past that piston ring. Need to dig in to it a little deeper. Turbos simply do not leak oil that quickly unless they just flat left the piston ring off the unit. Highly doubtful.
As for the feed line, it is a -4 line and I have no restrictor. T-netics said there is no need for a restrictor under 90 psi on thier turbos. I am drawing a blank. Like I said, I really don't know what else to check, so any ideas would be great.
#7
I may have your answer... you could have coked oil clogging up the return. The turbo seals are like main bearing seals, they are supposed to seal oil but not necissarily under much pressure. A perfect rebuild with a clogged return could still cause pressure and could cause the turbo to leak. Here is a real good artical on that particular topic, check it out http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...aust-With-Pics!
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I may have your answer... you could have coked oil clogging up the return. The turbo seals are like main bearing seals, they are supposed to seal oil but not necissarily under much pressure. A perfect rebuild with a clogged return could still cause pressure and could cause the turbo to leak. Here is a real good artical on that particular topic, check it out http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...aust-With-Pics!
I was actually curious about this. I have an RX performance catch can setup with the "suction" port plumbed into the rear spot on the drivers side valve cover and the vacuum port hooked to the intake manifold. There is a 3rd port that goes to the turbo intake which I havn't set up yet since it's not ready to see boost at the time being. I read that someone removed thier oil fill cap and the leaking seemed to stop on thier turbo. I will have to try this, but I would assume I'm getting a good suction through the catch can??
Thats what it seems like, but T-netics swears I don't need a restrictor unless the turbo is getting 90+ PSI of pressure, which it is nowhere near. The guy at T-netics told me to try a -3 feed line instead of the -4 I have, but thats such a waste of money since once I use it, I'm stuck with it. AN stuff gets expensive. It pisses me off because the instructions with the turbo clearly say use EITHER a -4 or -3 feed line.
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Hey guys. Just fired the car up to check it out. After running for a few minutes, I pulled off the oil fill cap for the hell of it and it made a loud wooosh noise, almost like a blowoff valve. Held my hand over it and it's got a pretty good vacuum because it starts to suck my hand to it. I'm wondering if this is my problem?? I'll throw a breather in place and check it out, but in you guys opinions, could this be whats pushing oil past the seals on the turbo?
I had the catch can hooked to manifold vacuum but no breather in the system anywhere. Do you generally want a breather somewhere with a vacuum assisted catch can setup?
I had the catch can hooked to manifold vacuum but no breather in the system anywhere. Do you generally want a breather somewhere with a vacuum assisted catch can setup?
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Not really, you actually want a vacuum. But I am curious if your set up has ANY type of venting during boost. I would assume that there is some form of a check valve preventing boost from going from the inlet to the crank case. Do you just have the line that is supposed to go to the turbo inlet going to atmosphere?
As for the feed lines, we always use a -4 on large T6 turbos, -3 on T4 sized turbos and a restrictor on ball bearings....but if they say no restrictor is necessary, I guess they know their turbos better than anyone! We have actually had to use a minor restrictor on -4 lines with t4 sized turbo Borg Warner turbos before to keep them from smoking. It was basically just to neck it down from -4 to -3 size.
As for the feed lines, we always use a -4 on large T6 turbos, -3 on T4 sized turbos and a restrictor on ball bearings....but if they say no restrictor is necessary, I guess they know their turbos better than anyone! We have actually had to use a minor restrictor on -4 lines with t4 sized turbo Borg Warner turbos before to keep them from smoking. It was basically just to neck it down from -4 to -3 size.
#15
NightmareTA, I actually wasn't talking about clogged return lines, I was talking about inside the turbo itself before it gets to the return line. People will shut the car off after boost sometimes and it will burn the oil which turns to coke and can cause problems from restricting oil flow and building pressure. If you check out the link you will see what I mean, you dont need to read the whole thing just look at the middle pictures and look at the end. The fact its a new rebuild but a used turbo means there is def room for something like this to be going on. I understand not wanting to tear stuff apart if you dont have to but at least check out that link, see what im talking about and see if that makes sense to you with your used, rebuilt turbo. Also, keep us posted for sure when you do find out the real deal.
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Not really, you actually want a vacuum. But I am curious if your set up has ANY type of venting during boost. I would assume that there is some form of a check valve preventing boost from going from the inlet to the crank case. Do you just have the line that is supposed to go to the turbo inlet going to atmosphere?
As for the feed lines, we always use a -4 on large T6 turbos, -3 on T4 sized turbos and a restrictor on ball bearings....but if they say no restrictor is necessary, I guess they know their turbos better than anyone! We have actually had to use a minor restrictor on -4 lines with t4 sized turbo Borg Warner turbos before to keep them from smoking. It was basically just to neck it down from -4 to -3 size.
As for the feed lines, we always use a -4 on large T6 turbos, -3 on T4 sized turbos and a restrictor on ball bearings....but if they say no restrictor is necessary, I guess they know their turbos better than anyone! We have actually had to use a minor restrictor on -4 lines with t4 sized turbo Borg Warner turbos before to keep them from smoking. It was basically just to neck it down from -4 to -3 size.
As far as the feed line, if this remains a problem, thats something I'll have to try out. Probably gonna run me around $50, but hey if it fixes the problem, I guess it's worth it.
NightmareTA, I actually wasn't talking about clogged return lines, I was talking about inside the turbo itself before it gets to the return line. People will shut the car off after boost sometimes and it will burn the oil which turns to coke and can cause problems from restricting oil flow and building pressure. If you check out the link you will see what I mean, you dont need to read the whole thing just look at the middle pictures and look at the end. The fact its a new rebuild but a used turbo means there is def room for something like this to be going on. I understand not wanting to tear stuff apart if you dont have to but at least check out that link, see what im talking about and see if that makes sense to you with your used, rebuilt turbo. Also, keep us posted for sure when you do find out the real deal.
#17
I am fighting a very similar issue.
I also have the RX catch can with the three nipples. One was hooked to the air filter attached to the turbo compressor housing the middle nipple is a attached to a "T" with one side going to the rear drivers side valve cover and the other to the nipple on the valley cover. The last nipple is attached to the intake manifold right before the TB.
In my case I also have the optional breather filter that replaces the stock oil filler cap and I plugged the nipple on the front passenger valve cover.
I noticed a what looked like smoke or light mist coming off the filter on the filler cap and smoke coming out of the exhaust.
I also have the Exa-Pump and checked to make sure it was working by putting the drains from the turbos into a plastic container and then I put the hose from the oil return pump into the container. I started the car and unplugged he pump and the container started filler really fast but as soon as I turned the pump on it sucked up all the oil until the contained wad dry.
I have BB turbos with a pressure reducing/restrictor in the -3 lines going to each turbo.
I am about to throw the white flag myself.
BTW, I currently have the line from the turbo to the catch can unhooked because I removed the air filter while checking things out. Not sure it that would cause an increase in crank case pressure.
I also have the RX catch can with the three nipples. One was hooked to the air filter attached to the turbo compressor housing the middle nipple is a attached to a "T" with one side going to the rear drivers side valve cover and the other to the nipple on the valley cover. The last nipple is attached to the intake manifold right before the TB.
In my case I also have the optional breather filter that replaces the stock oil filler cap and I plugged the nipple on the front passenger valve cover.
I noticed a what looked like smoke or light mist coming off the filter on the filler cap and smoke coming out of the exhaust.
I also have the Exa-Pump and checked to make sure it was working by putting the drains from the turbos into a plastic container and then I put the hose from the oil return pump into the container. I started the car and unplugged he pump and the container started filler really fast but as soon as I turned the pump on it sucked up all the oil until the contained wad dry.
I have BB turbos with a pressure reducing/restrictor in the -3 lines going to each turbo.
I am about to throw the white flag myself.
BTW, I currently have the line from the turbo to the catch can unhooked because I removed the air filter while checking things out. Not sure it that would cause an increase in crank case pressure.