ToxicWS6

friend and i are about to start putting together a front mount turbo kit using C6 manifold and 6.0 truck mani and keep the ac, this is the plan of parts im thinkin of going with and what im using, let me know what yall think or any suggestions

BMR turbo Kmember

CBR performance alternator relocation kit

340lph pump with ether 60LB or 80LB injectors

C6 manifold with flange and gasket kit

6.0 manifold with flange and gasket kit

-4 oil feed line from the mount above the oil filter

-10 drain line, into timing cover or oil pan

2.5 inch mandrel bent U bends from summit, 3-4

31x11.75x3in intercooler with 2.5in inlet/outlet

2.5in intercooler piping probably routed same way as Killer-ls1 did in his "how to DIY truck manifold" thread

T4 flange and gasket

for running 6-8psi stock block, then maybe 10psi with 317 heads in the future, would that be the correct size fuel pump and would i be better off with 60 or 80LB injectors

is -4 oil line for feed going to hurt anything/be to much oil and should i use -3? or is it fine, i have a feed fitting with restrictor in it

the above is all stuff im planning on getting, haven't quite decided on waste gate or BOV yet, any one got any suggestions on ether that arnt crazy expensive but good quality ones, and were to get them other the ebay for cheapies let me know

things i already have layin around and what made me start thinking of doing this are

MP T76 turbo 1.00 AR

AEM A/F gauge, in car

Boost gauge, in car

boost controller

basically combing a couple users diff ways of how they ran there and see what works out best.

my plan on how im going to go about this, as this is on my DD, do the Kmember and alternator kit, get car back on the road and aligned, get that all straight and working, then do the radiator stand up and fans next, get car driving again, then order in all the piping and manifolds and rest of stuff and then start that, keep minimum amount of down time on it, have a spare vehicle but its my trail truck so lol

for the radiator im gunna try to keep stock rad and just lower an inch or so and stand it up and forward, then reuse my stock fans reconfigured onto the front of it and then just reverse the wires around to turn them into pushers, will this work? if so will it work well enough to be used? would i be better off using the griffin radiator everyone uses (P/N GRI-1-25241-X) and using my stock fans on that? any one have pusher fans they've used that they havnt had over heating problems? any suggestions are appreciated

most the links i got my ideas from and how im goin about this, not stealing anyones ideas just borrowing

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...turbo-kit.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...manifolds.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ld-w-pics.html


thanks guys!

a4ls2goat

interesting.!!
do post pics

ToxicWS6

I plan on takin some pics as i go along, keep a price tag on everything i buy and see how it comes out, looks like ill be able to keep it around $2k, i already have the turbo and guages which helps me save $$ but, will see lol

dville_gt

iTrader: (5)

not to rain on your parade, but i'd highly recommend not doing this to your daily driver that you plan to keep running throughout the entire build. just my 2 cents.

evo462

iTrader: (27)

Having done a very similar build...I think it will be highly unlikely you will be able to use your car as a daily driver during the build process.

There are a LOT of little time consuming things you're overlooking in your list, and you're making the assumption you do everything properly and/or everything works on the first try.

I don't think you'll have rooms to put the stock fans in front of the radiator - there isn't a whole lot of space up there as it is, and you will be stuffing an intercooler up front too. That's assuming you can even reverse polarity on the stock fans and the blades push the right direction (I don't know).

Keep in mind, if you're keeping the AC and you change the angle or location of the radiator\condenser in any way, you will have to account for the changes in the HVAC components.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

This is exactly what I was thinking with the a/c and the fans having enough room to fit. O.P., I Applaude your thinking as I will no doubt try this my self when and if it works out for you. Been waiting for this, subscribed...

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

Where are you located? I have a c6 6.0 manifold setup. Your number one issue is going to be cooling with the ac on in the city. I just finished a modified ac line today so ill have a chance to test out my griffen radiTor/saab puller fan setup. Look out for a thread if it works.

ToxicWS6

I know it probably wont be a problem free install on anything (though i wish lol) and i dont NEED the car as my dd, if do the kmember and plan on it taking a weekend and it takes a week in a half thats fine, i have my truck to drive, just also doing that as steps too get on thing done, it works cool, next thing done cool it works. Im plan on it probably being undriveable 90% of this whole build, just few test drives here and there after each step make sure things work as should

And any one have a set of pusher fans theyve used on the griffon rad and havnt had to much over heating problems or any?

do apprtiate the input and concern though!

Im located in Newport News VA

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

Definitely interested in your results. I was planning something like this, but had to put it off for various reasons....($$$$ haha)

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

You need a shrouded puller set up to have any chance of ac that actually works.

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

my -4 oil line pushes so much oil, i had to put a restrictor in it. You'd be fine with a -3. its very easy to upgrade in the future if you really think you need it.

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

also, im really happy with my SPAL fans. I melted a flex-a-lite fan. i dont think the stock fans will work as pushers

ToxicWS6

if u were to guess ur oil restrictor hole size would u say like a 1/16th ish? and ill probably go with -3 then, ive had oil issues in the past

and were did u get those fans at? if u have the exact type (expample, 12 inch XXCFM pusher model XXX) or a link or website id appreciate it alot!

i was gunna experiment a little with the stock rad and fans since that wont be wasting $$ but if its tried and tested and ur setup works, let me know lol

thanks guys! im excited to do this, probably order kmember and alternator kit next week! and get going on it, deff gunna try to remember to get lots of pics of before and after and how it went in fun lol

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

One thing I can add is be carefull what you use for a gasket on the C6 manifold. It gets pretty hot at the flange and gaskets dont last. Better off with just perfectly flat flanges and no gaskets or a v band.

ToxicWS6

I heard the 2 bolts arnt the best but, ima see if the welder im under at work can weld cast iron if so ill get some Vbands, also thought, would i be able to weld the 2 bolt stock flanges together and add a Vband a little further down the hot side, not sure though yet. So perfectly clean flanges, im getting 1/2flanges to go to it, will seal up good enough if u just bolt them down good?

dville_gt

iTrader: (5)

I found some 1/2" c6 flanges that were cnc cut out of mild on ebay and just used ultra copper gasket maker on the flat surfaces. been fine so far.

ToxicWS6

Yeah those are tthe flanges i found lol, and ok cool sounds good!

dville_gt

iTrader: (5)

I am running a c6/truck manifold kit on my car w/ac, it's a mustang but the basics are the same, you should read through my thread.

ToxicWS6

well got it done over the weekend and the Kmember is in, just need to head to an alignment shop when i get a chance, heres the pics i got, all and all probably would of takin one day but we fought with the control arm bushings pressing old out new in for almost 2 hrs : \

the BMR instructions were pretty helpful, only thing i did different when following them is i took the AC compressor off as i felt it was way easier taking it and the bracket off then fighting trying to get hte bolts on the engine mount off

just so yall know im not working out of a huge fancy garage with a lift, this is what i had to work with lol



supporting the car and getting ready



comparing the 2 Kmembers, tubular one was way lighter the i was expecting



Kmember in, just need to put everything else back and up were it belongs



all done and ready for alignment shop, deffintly a lot more room under there now


side shot



now just waiting for alternator relocation kit to come in, after doing kmember it would of been easier to do the relocation kit while doing the kmembe cause u already have Alternator out and room to move stuff around

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Good job, I am considering a tubular k member myself. I have to ask, how did you support the engine and other stuff required for this swap, any helpful pointers to pass along? Thanks...