Cadillac CTS-V - Going up on blocks for mods.




View Full Version : Going up on blocks for mods.


heavymetals
03-22-2012, 03:46 PM
This project/hobby is finally getting attention again.

I had some minor surgery that put me back a few weeks, but now is looking good.

Motor mounts (for the THIRD time), clutch (replacing the Monster stage 3), carbon fiber driveshaft, KW shock and spring setup.

I figure two weeks (I take a lot of breaks).

Anyone interested in the Monster clutch, pm me.

Very low mileage (about 5k).


FuzzyLog1c
03-22-2012, 05:06 PM
What do you want for the clutch? Is the flywheel included?

heavymetals
03-22-2012, 05:44 PM
What do you want for the clutch? Is the flywheel included?

Flywheel and slave included as I won't need or use any of it.

I am replacing with a twin.

It won't be off the car till next week probably.


FuzzyLog1c
03-22-2012, 06:07 PM
Price?

heavymetals
03-22-2012, 07:29 PM
This project/hobby is finally getting attention again.

I had some minor surgery that put me back a few weeks, but now is looking good.

Motor mounts (for the THIRD time), clutch (replacing the Monster stage 3), carbon fiber driveshaft, KW shock and spring setup.

I figure two weeks (I take a lot of breaks).

Anyone interested in the Monster clutch, pm me.

Very low mileage (about 5k).

Price?

Cost me $950.00 (light flywheel)

http://www.monsterclutches.com/shop/index.php/gm/ctsv12/monster-clutch-level-3-ctsv-package.html

I would like to get north of $600.

FuzzyLog1c
03-22-2012, 07:31 PM
No thanks. I'm good where I'm at. :)

rand49er
03-22-2012, 08:33 PM
I was thinking about you the other day, heavy, and wondered where you were. Glad you're back at the wrench and the computer.

Let us know about that carbon fiber driveshaft and how it drives.

heavymetals
03-22-2012, 09:03 PM
Thanks for thinking bout me.

Just took a break from the CF and worked on stuff that was more important.

Turned out anything was more important.

LOL

heavymetals
04-02-2012, 01:48 PM
Up on blocks (way UP).

Exhaust is out, headers are out and PCM is in the mail (for modifications).

Drive shaft is coming out next.

I figure at least two weeks before I get it back together, and maybe another week before I get it all apart.

50% off on the Monster clutch if anybody is interested ($500.00).

CTSV_510
04-02-2012, 01:59 PM
Are you using the Creative Steel mounts this time? What did you have before?

What suspension did you have before? I have 75k miles and I'm sure shocks are coming due, but those KWs look pricey.

heavymetals
04-02-2012, 02:07 PM
After going through a set of stock ones and now on the second set of UUC (crap) I am going to try the UMI mounts.

Stock suspension (currently).

Creative steel axles.

The KW's are supposed so be the "hot setup", so I guess I will find out.

kl2onik
04-02-2012, 03:31 PM
why are you taking the monster out???anything you didn't like
about it

kl2onik
04-02-2012, 03:40 PM
also I need some close pics of the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate to see wear n tear.
Thanks

heavymetals
04-02-2012, 03:41 PM
why are you taking the monster out???anything you didn't like
about it

IT CHATTERED, and is very difficult to slip enough to get a good "launch".

Other then those "minor" things, it works very well.

Clutch has about 2-3k mi of wear.

Monster says the chatter can be "cured" by replacing the puck type disc with a full face (they offer one), but I decided to replace the whole thing with a twin disc.

AAIIIC
04-02-2012, 09:46 PM
Which twin disk are you going with?

heavymetals
04-02-2012, 10:00 PM
Katech LS9 kit.

cam3439
04-03-2012, 06:29 AM
^those are awesome...I have one, haha.

lollygagger8
04-03-2012, 08:24 AM
Katech LS9 kit.

How much did that set you back heavy?

And post a pic of your UUC MM's please.

heavymetals
04-03-2012, 11:13 AM
How much did that set you back heavy?

And post a pic of your UUC MM's please.

A lot. About $1300.00

The motor mounts are the yellow ones.

heavymetals
04-09-2012, 05:35 PM
HAHAHA

Things were going fairly smooth and I was doing a little at a time as the last time I replaced the clutch I phucked up my shoulders and it took 6 months to heal.

I have the transmission ready to come out and I get about 1/2 inch of it clear when I get hit with the most major leg cramp ever.

YEOWWWWW!!!!

My clutch leg(!) and I had one hell of a time putting Mr. Vette back in the garage.

Taped up like a racehorse at the moment and cooling it.

FuzzyLog1c
04-09-2012, 05:54 PM
Take it from a former national level swimmer (leg / foot cramps are common): the instant you get that muscular surging feeling (dead ringer for a major cramp incoming!), straighten out that leg as hard as you can and keep it there for at least 20-30 seconds. If it's in the arch of your foot, immediately grab your toes and pull up toward your knee as hard as you can. Whatever you do, don't bend your knees or point your toes and hold it for at least 20-30 seconds.

heavymetals
04-10-2012, 05:30 PM
Transmission is out!

That was it for today.

Tomorrow the bell housing and clutch.

Motor mounts next.

CTSV_510
04-10-2012, 06:27 PM
Heavy have you looked through this thread? How tight is your shifter? While you have the trans out you should really replace these bushings, it makes a world of difference:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1517800-b-m-shifter.html

heavymetals
04-10-2012, 07:03 PM
Heavy have you looked through this thread? How tight is your shifter? While you have the trans out you should really replace these bushings, it makes a world of difference:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1517800-b-m-shifter.html

That was done the first year!

UUC bushings & shifter.

CTSV_510
04-10-2012, 07:09 PM
That was done the first year!

UUC bushings & shifter.

Of course, but I mean the trans side bushings, not the ones right under the shifter. Maybe your shifter has no side to side play now, but I had quite a bit even with the UUC bushings and B&M shifter installed. It got worse over time, but maybe I'm hard on my shifter...

heavymetals
04-10-2012, 08:17 PM
Thanks for the heads up, I'll check them out.

The coupling to the UUC shifter has holes that are "sloppy" and I am looking at installing a bushing or something there.

One would have thought that for a Cadillac, they would have designed a shifter mechanism that would at least be as good "feel wise" as a Vette.

heavymetals
04-11-2012, 05:01 PM
Clutch & flywheel are out! :D

Look almost new.

Will post pics if anyone is interested in it.

Motor mounts are next.

CancerJCC
04-12-2012, 08:21 PM
Clutch & flywheel are out! :D

Look almost new.

Will post pics if anyone is interested in it.

Motor mounts are next.

:) Glad things are chugging along for you. If you weren't on an opposite coast I'd swing over and give you a hand! Been putting in some drugs on mine the last couple days. Mmmm Meth. :D

heavymetals
04-14-2012, 10:48 PM
Thanks for the offer, I have a friend who drops by to harass & help me if I really need another hand.

I got to say, a transmission jack is a nice thing to have.:nod:

I just turned a knob to line it up and the trans slid right out.

Last time I used furniture dollies and my floor jack.

I got the motor mounts done today, so now it is "working backwards", that is new clutch goes in next.

Since I am doing all this work, I am thinking about replacing the fuel pump also.

heavymetals
04-21-2012, 01:26 PM
Rear suspension is in!

KW coil over system, plus some really bitchin spherical bearings by PFADT for the rear strut to ride in instead of the rubber bushings.

Got some stainless bolts for the bell housing (overkill) but I galled a head on one of the OEMs so what the heck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310240543601?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1090wt_1396

Rear brake lines are next.

heavymetals
04-27-2012, 07:21 PM
Clutch is in!

beertime.

garrettg
04-28-2012, 02:32 PM
Rear suspension is in!

KW coil over system, plus some really bitchin spherical bearings by PFADT for the rear strut to ride in instead of the rubber bushings.

Got some stainless bolts for the bell housing (overkill) but I galled a head on one of the OEMs so what the heck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310240543601?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1090wt_1396

Rear brake lines are next.

Which spherical bearings did you use was this for the upper or lower mounts?

Either of these by chance? I have kw v3 kit ready to install as well so please do tell.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/234168-success-c5-c6-pfadt-shock-mounts.html

http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/23_29/products_id/201

heavymetals
04-28-2012, 06:00 PM
The ones you found on the Cad forum.

I don't know if they are still available.

heavymetals
05-01-2012, 06:55 PM
Transmission is in!

Took the wind out of my sail.

FYI I used threaded rod (4 pcs) as studs and with a nut on each end I pulled the transmission into the bell housing.

This time install was a bitch (compared to the Monster) because of the twin disc setup and the UMI mounts made it harder to angle the motor to mate up.

The captured disc mates with the spline a lot sooner then a single disc, so you have to have alignment correct right off the bat.

Anyone who has done a clutch job knows what a lack of space there is to work with.

Tomorrow I bleed the clutch and see if it binds.

Onefast V
05-01-2012, 08:05 PM
Did you preheat the flywheel to get it on? Turns out youre supposed to preheat it to 200f....

rand49er
05-01-2012, 08:48 PM
Did you preheat the flywheel to get it on? Turns out youre supposed to preheat it to 200f....^^^ Yeah that.



Transmission is in!

Took the wind out of my sail.

FYI I used threaded rod (4 pcs) as studs and with a nut on each end I pulled the transmission into the bell housing.

This time install was a bitch (compared to the Monster) because of the twin disc setup and the UMI mounts made it harder to angle the motor to mate up.

The captured disc mates with the spline a lot sooner then a single disc, so you have to have alignment correct right off the bat.

Anyone who has done a clutch job knows what a lack of space there is to work with.

Tomorrow I bleed the clutch and see if it binds.Dang. You make me glad I paid to have mine done.

When do you take it out for a spin?

heavymetals
05-01-2012, 09:12 PM
I said in an earlier post in another thread I felt like Betty Crocker waiting for the flywheel to be "done".

So yeah, it got heated and was very easy to install.

I fitted it cold and it would bind.

I could see where torquing on the bolts cold could tweak it.

As for taking it for a spin, even if I get the doggone thing done, I am currently PCM less.

That is a phucking story you don't even want to get me started on.

Anyway, I still need to finish doing brake lines and the front suspension.

I will do the clutch bleed tomorrow and then see if I fucked something up and it binds.

If that is jake, then reinstall the shifter and the cf driveshaft :hail: goes on.

lollygagger8
05-02-2012, 10:18 AM
Sounds good man.....post up pics, I wanna see that clutch!

heavymetals
05-02-2012, 11:27 AM
I was gonna take pics, but didn't this time.

The clutch looks bitchin, but I didn't buy it for looks.

I am just hoping that I can slip it enough to get a decent launch.

Onefast V
05-02-2012, 12:05 PM
Sounds good man.....post up pics, I wanna see that clutch!

here are some of the LS9X that just came out of my car..

lollygagger8
05-02-2012, 12:55 PM
I was gonna take pics, but didn't this time.

The clutch looks bitchin, but I didn't buy it for looks.

I am just hoping that I can slip it enough to get a decent launch.

I thought everyone bought clutches for the way they look? ;)

Let us know how you dig the twin disc.

heavymetals
05-02-2012, 04:25 PM
Got my friend to come by and help bleed the clutch.

With the remote bleeder it is "duck soup".

Stuck one end in the reservoir and he just slowly pumped it till there weren't any bubbles.

Used this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TQ0WM4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Then there was the BIG TEST.

I crawled underneath the car and had my friend step on the clutch pedal while I tried to turn the output shaft on the transmission.

I could feel the clutch disengage and then the output shaft turned freely by hand with no binding at all.

WHOO FUCKING WHOO!

Onefast V
05-02-2012, 05:31 PM
Got my friend to come by and help bleed the clutch.

With the remote bleeder it is "duck soup".

Stuck one end in the reservoir and he just slowly pumped it till there weren't any bubbles.

Used this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TQ0WM4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Then there was the BIG TEST.

I crawled underneath the car and had my friend step on the clutch pedal while I tried to turn the output shaft on the transmission.

I could feel the clutch disengage and then the output shaft turned freely by hand with no binding at all.

WHOO FUCKING WHOO!

you lucky SOB!

heavymetals
05-02-2012, 05:34 PM
you lucky SOB!

Thanks!

We shall see how lucky when I finally get to slip the clutch and see if I don't loosen up a filling.

heavymetals
05-04-2012, 12:30 PM
Is this sick or what?

I just took the clutch money (I sold my Monster) and ordered a 320 lph fuel pump. :judge:

Ordered the wrench also as the one for the Vette won't work (of course).

Here is a suggestion for those of you doing a clutch job:

If you are too cheap to buy long bolts or threaded rod to assist in the re-assembly, you can use the starter motor mounting bolts.

CTSV_510
05-04-2012, 12:53 PM
Is this sick or what?

I just took the clutch money (I sold my Monster) and ordered a 320 lph fuel pump. :judge:



Ready for more boost?

lollygagger8
05-04-2012, 12:58 PM
Is this sick or what?

I just took the clutch money (I sold my Monster) and ordered a 320 lph fuel pump. :judge:

Ordered the wrench also as the one for the Vette won't work (of course).

Here is a suggestion for those of you doing a clutch job:

If you are too cheap to buy long bolts or threaded rod to assist in the re-assembly, you can use the starter motor mounting bolts.

Nice find! You needed to take out starter, or just replacing? How the hell did you find that out?

heavymetals
05-04-2012, 01:57 PM
I removed the starter to do motor mounts and noticed the length and thread of the bolts matched what I used for re-install.

I may in fact have used them the first time I did the clutch.

heavymetals
05-04-2012, 02:01 PM
Ready for more boost?

Not at the moment, but I figured that since I am doing all this work, why the phuck not "fix" the fuel system?

If I do it now, I won't have to go through all the jacking up/down of the car plus the downtime (not that I care so much).

wcryan
05-04-2012, 02:33 PM
just be ready for the 9th ; )

heavymetals
05-04-2012, 03:08 PM
Would you believe it?

More good/great news on my phucking PCM! :hail:

Been screwing around with it since August (smog crap). :mad:

Was 1/2" away from getting the car all together and selling it. :bomb:

Things are looking up!

heavymetals
05-09-2012, 11:54 AM
Here is the rear shock support bearing converted to a spherical bearing.

PDAFT does not make these anymore, but I found another vendor (I think).

garrettg
05-09-2012, 03:06 PM
Here is the rear shock support bearing converted to a spherical bearing.

PDAFT does not make these anymore, but I found another vendor (I think).

Do you have a bigger picture by chance that is micro sized. I contacted PFADT and they stated the same deal, I also found a few vendors from online searches. I am trying to find somebody to go half with. I got Kw V3 kit installed and cs diff bushing it's like a proper car perhaps even bimmer like feedback.

heavymetals
05-09-2012, 03:23 PM
I have to finish putting my car back together.

I got sidetracked shipping out my old stuff.

Also, I sort of tweaked my back, but all is well now.

What sold me on the KW setup is when I saw a V set up with one.

The new driveshaft looks tits.

heavymetals
05-10-2012, 07:11 PM
HAHAHAHA

The joke is on me I guess.:jest:

Not less then an hour after I get the brake line shit sorted out then I run into another problem.:judge:

The driveshaft weights hit the shifter.

MOD HELL.

Onefast V
05-10-2012, 07:46 PM
Weird. Do you have a short shifter? Does shifter to transmission connection sit significantly lower than the oem shifter?

heavymetals
05-10-2012, 08:13 PM
One other person had the same GD problem with their driveshaft.

The diameter is quite a bit larger.

I have a UUC shifter.

lollygagger8
05-11-2012, 07:40 AM
I removed the starter to do motor mounts and noticed the length and thread of the bolts matched what I used for re-install.

I may in fact have used them the first time I did the clutch.

I've never had to remove my starter to do MM's.....but I always disconnected my battery since it's pretty close

branland
05-11-2012, 08:07 AM
One other person had the same GD problem with their driveshaft.

The diameter is quite a bit larger.

I have a UUC shifter.

I ended up raising the shifter about 1/2 inch by altering the way it was mounted in the car. I had also flipped the nylon bushing around that support the shifter ball, but that made the shifting to clunky.

That driveshaft seemed to really stiffen up the car. It took a little getting use to.

heavymetals
05-11-2012, 11:54 AM
I am waiting for an RA from the driveshaft people.

OH WELL.

I looked at grinding on the shifter, and I may when the shaft is out and I feel like taking the GD thing apart again.

MOD HELL

2c5s
05-17-2012, 04:44 PM
Why not go to someone local for a tune?

heavymetals
05-17-2012, 05:13 PM
I went to see Ryan, but my PCM has an old version of an OS that GM doesn't use anymore and the current version of HP tune does not support it.

However, from what I understand, HP has released a "patch" that makes that possible now.

So I may have it adjusted.

The original tuner (Stealth) would take data runs and "fine tune" it, so it runs very well as it is.

It was the smog crap that I needed looked at.

2c5s
05-17-2012, 05:57 PM
I went to see Ryan, but my PCM has an old version of an OS that GM doesn't use anymore and the current version of HP tune does not support it.

However, from what I understand, HP has released a "patch" that makes that possible now.

So I may have it adjusted.

The original tuner (Stealth) would take data runs and "fine tune" it, so it runs very well as it is.

It was the smog crap that I needed looked at.

I see.

heavymetals
05-17-2012, 06:32 PM
I had a nice long drive to Murrieta for naught. :judge:

2c5s
05-17-2012, 06:44 PM
I had a nice long drive to Murrieta for naught. :judge:

What OS is in the car?

heavymetals
05-17-2012, 07:00 PM
You are asking the wrong guy, I don't do software, I do hardware.

I know enough about software to know I don't want to do it.

Evidently, there was a time when the tune that was done to the car (EFI live), the OS GM used was funky in that current and old versions of HP tune were not compatible.

This is what the new tuner told me, and I believe him.

Ryan couldn't talk to the PCM when I went there and he thought the tuner had done something weird to the tune.

Supposedly, what I wanted got done and I am just waiting for the PCM to show up.

If anybody needs a mail order tune guy, let me know.

wcryan
05-18-2012, 01:46 AM
what shop does he work for?

heavymetals
05-18-2012, 10:12 AM
what shop does he work for?

http://www.hitechtuning.com/

heavymetals
05-26-2012, 07:06 PM
OK, all the brake lines are in.

Had to wait for a new transmission mount (Creative Steel) as the UUC had a stud that would just spin around.

Another Quality Product! :jest:

The two front struts and driveshaft are all that I want to do to finish.

I still have axles to install.

wcryan
05-26-2012, 07:47 PM
murrieta..... by temecula?

heavymetals
05-26-2012, 08:01 PM
murrieta..... by temecula?

YUP.

I just had to order a pair of tires also. :judge:

This is not a cheap project!

wcryan
05-26-2012, 08:59 PM
I just orderded some new tires too. Just for the rears for the meet. 590$ :(

heavymetals
05-26-2012, 10:51 PM
I just orderded some new tires too. Just for the rears for the meet. 590$ :(

Mine was $50 cheaper!

Whoo Hoo!

Free shipping.

255/45-18 MICHELIN PILOT SPORT A/S PLUS 99Y

heavymetals
05-28-2012, 11:56 PM
One down and one front strut left.

Sure took the wind out of my sail.

At least I didn't get smacked in the face when I disconnected the steering knuckle.

furbe
05-29-2012, 11:34 PM
Here is the rear shock support bearing converted to a spherical bearing.

PDAFT does not make these anymore, but I found another vendor (I think).

Thats also a corvette upper shock mount

heavymetals
05-30-2012, 06:23 PM
Thats also a corvette upper shock mount

YES it is, but today it is a CTS-V rear shock upper mount support.

AST makes a bitchin one for about $300.00 a pair.

So, driveshaft is in, and exhaust is hooked up. :hail:

One front strut and re-install the coils and wiring to go........

Oh yeah, and replace two tires.

wcryan
05-30-2012, 07:04 PM
Looks like the V will be making it on the 9th eh?

heavymetals
05-30-2012, 07:14 PM
Looks like the V will be making it on the 9th eh?

That is the goal.

I would like to have a week to drive it around and shake it out before then.

I went back and looked at my first post.

I figured two weeks and it was really two months.

At least it got worked on as before, I would put the V in storage and not see it for 6 months.

wcryan
05-30-2012, 08:31 PM
^ V's dont like storage...... they get angry

garrettg
05-30-2012, 09:38 PM
What are your middle of wheel to fender lip measurements with the kw's. I am seeing a large difference between the rear corners with a lot of weight on the rear passenger side. I have both side at extremes to get them even. Are you seeing similiar results?

heavymetals
05-30-2012, 10:23 PM
What are your middle of wheel to fender lip measurements with the kw's. I am seeing a large difference between the rear corners with a lot of weight on the rear passenger side. I have both side at extremes to get them even. Are you seeing similiar results?

Left front went from 6" to 5.25" (rim to lip) with the adjustment about 1/2 way up.

I still have the right to do.

The rears are up in the air but I expect a 0.750" drop @ halfway also.

Cadzilla
05-31-2012, 02:05 AM
Take it to someone with the right tools.

heavymetals
05-31-2012, 11:56 AM
Take it to someone with the right tools.

A very good suggestion if one doesn't.

heavymetals
05-31-2012, 12:00 PM
^ V's dont like storage...... they get angry

Well, Mr Vette gets the same treatment, even worse.

A 2003 Z06 and just clicked over 9k miles.

I had to buy new tires as the old ones just rotted away!

I said screw that and started swapping cars every six months.

heavymetals
05-31-2012, 08:41 PM
Last strut is in. :hail:

Tires didn't show up, but tomorrow is fine with me.

Bleeding the last brake.

Last things to do are mount the coils and wires and then tighten everything up and see if it runs.

wcryan
05-31-2012, 08:46 PM
ill cross my fingers for you

heavymetals
06-01-2012, 03:01 PM
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!:cheers:

I got no brakes (re bleed time).

I got no rear tires (yet).

My phucking neighbor behind me got an earful.

HAHAHA

He is lucky the cats are in.

Rattled his windows.

wcryan
06-01-2012, 04:26 PM
congratulations! Go drink a beer

heavymetals
06-01-2012, 11:42 PM
Left front went from 6" to 5.25" (rim to lip) with the adjustment about 1/2 way up.

I still have the right to do.

The rears are up in the air but I expect a 0.750" drop @ halfway also.

Boy, was I wrong.

Those measurements work when half the car (rear half) is on jackstands!

I have some major adjusting to do on the fronts.

That 5.25" I had dropped to 2.8"!

At least I have adjustment, but major winding on the C wrench.

The good news is that the new clutch is just what I wanted (so far).

I can sip it from a dead stop and it doesn't chatter.

This is with NO RUBBER DOUGHNUT either.

The solid coupling that comes with the driveshaft gives one pause, but it works as does the driveshaft.

The UMI motor mounts transfer more vibration, BFD.

Not so bad I want to yank them out, but definitely more vibs then the UUC's.

The exhaust is sounding better, but nothing was done except a reseal of all the gaskets.

Bad news is I think the ABS unit gulped some air, so I may have to take it in for a proper bleeding via Tech II.

The brakes work, but the pedal doesn't feel right.

The rear strut bearings haven't had a workout so no comments yet.

I do think that getting rid of the rubber bushings does help dial in the spring preload.

That was it for today.

Tomorrow, adjustments.

heavymetals
06-02-2012, 02:36 PM
Got it adjusted.

Rears are about 4.25-4.5" from rim to fender lip

Fronts are about 4.5-5" from rim to fender lip.

Not at the extremes as far as adjustment, but the first spring on the front is compressed.

AAIIIC
06-03-2012, 08:21 AM
Someone over on cadillacforums.com was commenting about having to guess at the ride height settings for the KWs. Mine came with 2 sets of instructions - 1 set for the install, and 1 set that detailed how/where to set the ride height (http://www.kw-store.com/extras/docs/BBXQ/35263001-eah68663001.pdf). I measured the ride height before I jacked the car up, figured out how much lower I wanted it to be, set the spring perches per KW's instructions, and it was basically dead nuts where it was supposed to be. I've been through the guessing technique with GC coil-overs on my Subaru, so the specific instructions were definitely nice to have.

Did your KWs not come with that second set of instructions that I linked above?

heavymetals
06-03-2012, 11:14 AM
The KW's came with instructions.

My mistake was measuring the before and after distance (front) while the rear was supported on jack stands.

DOH!

Took the V for a drive last night.

Clutch is bitchin.

There are a whole lot of new sympathetic vibrations and I am sure the motor mounts attributed to this.

catch2otwo
06-03-2012, 02:31 PM
This thread would be better with more pics!

heavymetals
06-03-2012, 02:46 PM
One reason I didn't post a bunch of pics, is that most of the mods I did are well documented on other V sites, including this one.

I might take a few of the driveshaft and couplings.

AF_John
06-03-2012, 02:57 PM
I might take a few of the driveshaft and couplings.


Yes please do

heavymetals
06-03-2012, 04:05 PM
Yes please do

Obviously not mounted completely.

The alum coupling replaces the doughnut.

This was before the weights were relocated as they hit the shifter. :eek2:

heavymetals
06-04-2012, 01:21 PM
I like it!

Spent a couple of hours and modified the shifter mount to give more clearance for the driveshaft.

I don't want to phuck that thing up!

Got a chance to put a few more miles on it this morning.

Definitely a stiffer "feel" to it and more responsive to steering wheel input (that could be due to new rear tires ergo the good back tires went on the front).

Drive train noise isn't any better or worse then what it was, although there are a couple of new cabin rattles I have to chase down.

The new driveshaft is TITS.

Car sits just a little lower then what it used to (stock), but not as low as it can go, kudos to the KW's.

The BEST part is the new clutch. :cheers:

Now I can take off from a dead stop, feed in power (I couldn't before without major chatter!) and slip the clutch enough to get a smooth launch.

What a difference!

Junior-1
06-15-2012, 04:16 PM
Heavy: so the fix for the driveshaft was basically having them move the weights to a different location and all is well?
Any issues with heat and exhaust clearance on the shaft?

garrettg
06-15-2012, 04:28 PM
Someone over on cadillacforums.com was commenting about having to guess at the ride height settings for the KWs. Mine came with 2 sets of instructions - 1 set for the install, and 1 set that detailed how/where to set the ride height (http://www.kw-store.com/extras/docs/BBXQ/35263001-eah68663001.pdf). I measured the ride height before I jacked the car up, figured out how much lower I wanted it to be, set the spring perches per KW's instructions, and it was basically dead nuts where it was supposed to be. I've been through the guessing technique with GC coil-overs on my Subaru, so the specific instructions were definitely nice to have.

Did your KWs not come with that second set of instructions that I linked above?

So you were able to adjust both rear perches the same amount and ended up with same ride height on both sides? I say this because mine isn't even close for the rears. I have the passenger side about at max and drivers side nearly at min to get same middle of wheel to frender height. I understand how this is possible with the stock load leveling shocks but with the kw v3 set this seems harder to get right without having equal weight on each corner. After corner balancing I doubt if they will still be equal but seems like a good place to start prior to corner weighting.

heavymetals
06-15-2012, 05:11 PM
Heavy: so the fix for the driveshaft was basically having them move the weights to a different location and all is well?
Any issues with heat and exhaust clearance on the shaft?

Yup, they moved the weights.

I think they do it to all of them now, but don't hold me to it.

I have a B&B with an "X" pipe and no issues.

heavymetals
06-15-2012, 05:16 PM
So you were able to adjust both rear perches the same amount and ended up with same ride height on both sides? I say this because mine isn't even close for the rears. I have the passenger side about at max and drivers side nearly at min to get same middle of wheel to frender height. I understand how this is possible with the stock load leveling shocks but with the kw v3 set this seems harder to get right without having equal weight on each corner. After corner balancing I doubt if they will still be equal but seems like a good place to start prior to corner weighting.

I am still adjusting, but the passenger side sits lower (compared to the same adjustment on the driver side)and I think it is because there is more weight on that side of the car.

I am trying for a <4" rim to lip for the rears and 3.75" for the front.

garrettg
06-15-2012, 11:38 PM
I have some 110N/mm rear springs ordered to help with the weight on the back in full utility mode.

heavymetals
06-17-2012, 11:42 AM
FYI, what I did was take 1/2 of the rim diameter (19.75") and then added the distance from the rim lip to fender lip.

Rather then screwing around with a tape measure trying to stay in the center of the wheel and then guessing on centerline.

So,

1/2 of 19.75" = 9.875"

9.875" + rim lip to fender lip distance (4") keeps me within the min/max range established by KW.

I was not trying to drop the car as low as it will go.