New to LSs. A few questions.
03-27-2012, 11:28 AM
#1
New to LSs. A few questions. Hello everyone,
I'm building a 1937 Chevrolet for my wife. It will have a 5.3 LS1 with a 4L60E trans and an 8.8 rear end from a '99 Ford Explorer. I have two questions.
Could someone explain what I'll need to make the fuel system. I am completely in the dark on fuel injected systems. I will need to get a new gask tank and from what I've read so far it seems that an external pump would make things easier in the future. That's about all I know. I'm not sure what parts I'll need to connect everything to the engine and what kind of lines to run etc.
What sensors should I keep on the motor? I'm going to have the computer reflashed so I can remove any sensors I want. It seems like it might be a wise idea to keep the diagnostic port. I'm not sure if I need both 02 sensors, or just one set of them or what all sensors I can keep and get rid of. I plan on eliminating the cats since it will be pre-emission.
If anyone is interested, here is a link to my build thread:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=1&reverse=1
Thank you,
Brnadon
I'm building a 1937 Chevrolet for my wife. It will have a 5.3 LS1 with a 4L60E trans and an 8.8 rear end from a '99 Ford Explorer. I have two questions.
Could someone explain what I'll need to make the fuel system. I am completely in the dark on fuel injected systems. I will need to get a new gask tank and from what I've read so far it seems that an external pump would make things easier in the future. That's about all I know. I'm not sure what parts I'll need to connect everything to the engine and what kind of lines to run etc.
What sensors should I keep on the motor? I'm going to have the computer reflashed so I can remove any sensors I want. It seems like it might be a wise idea to keep the diagnostic port. I'm not sure if I need both 02 sensors, or just one set of them or what all sensors I can keep and get rid of. I plan on eliminating the cats since it will be pre-emission.
If anyone is interested, here is a link to my build thread:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=1&reverse=1
Thank you,
Brnadon
03-27-2012, 03:15 PM
#2
Brandon,
Here is a thread from the 'stickeys' in the CONVERSION section.
While the thread is based on a 67-69 F-Body, the fuel system post will be useful to you. In that thread, barbed fuel fittings are used. Instead of the barbed fittings, you can use Russell quick connect fittings and braided fuel line.
You might try placing your thread in the Conversion section. You may even find some people there who have already done a 37 LS1 or something similar!
Good luck!
Here is a thread from the 'stickeys' in the CONVERSION section.
While the thread is based on a 67-69 F-Body, the fuel system post will be useful to you. In that thread, barbed fuel fittings are used. Instead of the barbed fittings, you can use Russell quick connect fittings and braided fuel line.
You might try placing your thread in the Conversion section. You may even find some people there who have already done a 37 LS1 or something similar!
Good luck!
03-27-2012, 11:37 PM
#4
It would have helped some if I had included the link to the page I posted about. 
Here it is, post #4... https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ro-basics.html
I'm guessing that you won't be using your electric locks, an alarm system, or the conveniences that come with the 4th gen of f-bodies & LS1 trucks?
If not, the engine and body harness can be revised to exclude the body stuff, so that you end up with an engine stand-alone harness. You can figure this out by reading & asking questions, or, by having a vendor accomplish this for you. Or, you can purchase a new, stand-alone engine harness outright.
....If you won't be using the Vehicle Anti-Theft system (VATS), then, VATS needs to be disabled in your ECM/computer by a competent tuner, or by you...if you have the program to do so.
Theory...Depending upon the year of the vehicle which the LS1 came from, VATS may work differently. In my case (98), when the key is inserted to the ignition, a specified resistance from the key is recognized by the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM then puts out a 300 cycle signal which, in turn enables fuel to be delivered to the engine. Without this signal...no fuel.
If you decide against the alarm, locks, etc, you won't require the BCM. In the absence of the BCM signal, then, VATS must be disabled (so the ECM no longer looks for, or depends upon a signal to deliver fuel).
As an alternative, let's say that you don't turn VATS off in the ECM. How will the engine see the proper signal for fueling? The answer is that you can buy a VATS signal generator, depending upon your year. This generator can be used as a cheap "VATS" system. By inserting a switch into the signal generator circuit, you can hide this switch, and use it to cut off fuel.
One more...where would you like to mount your ECM? Some like to hide them. Mine's in the glove box. Some just mount them in the engine bay..like stock. In this case, you'll need to know how much harness length is available so that your location will work.
Here it is, post #4... https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ro-basics.html
I'm guessing that you won't be using your electric locks, an alarm system, or the conveniences that come with the 4th gen of f-bodies & LS1 trucks?
If not, the engine and body harness can be revised to exclude the body stuff, so that you end up with an engine stand-alone harness. You can figure this out by reading & asking questions, or, by having a vendor accomplish this for you. Or, you can purchase a new, stand-alone engine harness outright.
....If you won't be using the Vehicle Anti-Theft system (VATS), then, VATS needs to be disabled in your ECM/computer by a competent tuner, or by you...if you have the program to do so.
Theory...Depending upon the year of the vehicle which the LS1 came from, VATS may work differently. In my case (98), when the key is inserted to the ignition, a specified resistance from the key is recognized by the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM then puts out a 300 cycle signal which, in turn enables fuel to be delivered to the engine. Without this signal...no fuel.
If you decide against the alarm, locks, etc, you won't require the BCM. In the absence of the BCM signal, then, VATS must be disabled (so the ECM no longer looks for, or depends upon a signal to deliver fuel).
As an alternative, let's say that you don't turn VATS off in the ECM. How will the engine see the proper signal for fueling? The answer is that you can buy a VATS signal generator, depending upon your year. This generator can be used as a cheap "VATS" system. By inserting a switch into the signal generator circuit, you can hide this switch, and use it to cut off fuel.
One more...where would you like to mount your ECM? Some like to hide them. Mine's in the glove box. Some just mount them in the engine bay..like stock. In this case, you'll need to know how much harness length is available so that your location will work.
03-27-2012, 11:51 PM
#5
That's some really useful information. Thanks!
My engine is from an '03 or '04 Chevrolet 1500. I'm sorry, I should stated that and the other information in the post. I will not be using power locks or power windows or an alarm system. About the only modern things I'm going to include that would have power that weren't on the original would be a newer radio and vintage heat and air and things pertaining to the engine like an electric fan. I do intend to have cruise control as well.
I did want to install a hidden kill switch. It sounds like the VATS system you mentioned would be perfect. Is that something that could be left on at all times and only turned off when needed or would it need to be turned off every time the car is turned off?
Thanks a lot for the help and tips, this is stuff I definitely didn't know and hadn't thought of. I'm going to check into the links now and try to figure out what the order for my fuel system. I've got to get that pretty quick because it's about time to mock that up. I want to get everything mocked up before I send the frame out to be powdercoated.
Thanks,
Brandon
My engine is from an '03 or '04 Chevrolet 1500. I'm sorry, I should stated that and the other information in the post. I will not be using power locks or power windows or an alarm system. About the only modern things I'm going to include that would have power that weren't on the original would be a newer radio and vintage heat and air and things pertaining to the engine like an electric fan. I do intend to have cruise control as well.
I did want to install a hidden kill switch. It sounds like the VATS system you mentioned would be perfect. Is that something that could be left on at all times and only turned off when needed or would it need to be turned off every time the car is turned off?
Thanks a lot for the help and tips, this is stuff I definitely didn't know and hadn't thought of. I'm going to check into the links now and try to figure out what the order for my fuel system. I've got to get that pretty quick because it's about time to mock that up. I want to get everything mocked up before I send the frame out to be powdercoated.
Thanks,
Brandon
03-28-2012, 07:18 PM
#6
Just to review...
the preferred method...1)you can have the VATS disabled in the ECM. I would recommend this route, and almost everyone does it this way. Once it's turned off, you don't have to think about anything interfering with your fuel system.
With this method, you can always wire a hidden on/off switch to your fuel pump (kind of like your own "VATS" system!). You can leave this on until you decide to disable the fuel.
option 2)..you can leave VATS enabled, then buy a signal generator to defeat VATS, so that your fuel pump will work.
The weakness of this option is that if your generator stops working, you'll be marooned wherever you are....(in the middle of the night, in the Bronx!)
the preferred method...1)you can have the VATS disabled in the ECM. I would recommend this route, and almost everyone does it this way. Once it's turned off, you don't have to think about anything interfering with your fuel system.
With this method, you can always wire a hidden on/off switch to your fuel pump (kind of like your own "VATS" system!). You can leave this on until you decide to disable the fuel.
option 2)..you can leave VATS enabled, then buy a signal generator to defeat VATS, so that your fuel pump will work.
The weakness of this option is that if your generator stops working, you'll be marooned wherever you are....(in the middle of the night, in the Bronx!)
03-28-2012, 07:37 PM
#7
Also, in the Conversions, or Fueling sections, try a search for 'Corvette FPR' (fuel pressure regulator), or Russell fittings, or Dorman fittings.
Sorry, I don't have the info avail at this time, but you'll need a (just a recommendation) Corvette FPR, Walbro 255 fuel pump, fuel fittings, (I prefer) braided fuel line.
The diagram for this setup is the same as in the 67-69 Camaro sticky in the Conversions section/post #4.
If you decide to go high horsepower, you'll want to put your fuel pressure reg closer to the engine, so as to maintain 58lbs pressure. Stock & mild increases in horsepower will be ok to mount the regulator rearward on the frame.
Sorry, I don't have the info avail at this time, but you'll need a (just a recommendation) Corvette FPR, Walbro 255 fuel pump, fuel fittings, (I prefer) braided fuel line.
The diagram for this setup is the same as in the 67-69 Camaro sticky in the Conversions section/post #4.
If you decide to go high horsepower, you'll want to put your fuel pressure reg closer to the engine, so as to maintain 58lbs pressure. Stock & mild increases in horsepower will be ok to mount the regulator rearward on the frame.
