Gears & Axles - s60 questions

i will be buying a rearend very soon. i have been looking at the s60 what all do i need to do this swap i know ill need a new driveshaft but is their anything else i might need?

need to send them your backing plates and thats it. mines been great no issues as of yet i have about 2k miles on it so far but am putting a 6.0 and f1 should be done within 2 weeks. then we will put it to the test

mines a daily driver i may get them to weld their backing plates on for a little extra money.

The S60 is a great, direct bolt-in reared for the f-body cars.

Like all other aftermarket rearends the brake backing plates become the axle retainer because there is no c-clips, and the axle bearing is pressed on the axle instead of installed in the housing.

Strange will install your backing plates/reluctor rings(if 4ch) for no charge if you send them in, as the S60 is normally a complete assembled rearend when you get it.

There should be nothing additional other than a driveshaft for the S60 install.

Give us a call... MWC is a direct dealer for Strange and has the best deal on the S60 rearends.

I purchased my S60 from Carl at Central Racing Parts and he is a great guy and very easy to deal with. Im still breaking it in and only got 200 miles on it but so far it feels like its gonna be amazing. The install was super easy!

I ordered my S60 from Midwest Chassis along with other goodies:secret2:
Got a Hella good deal thru them!! Thanks Again Eric

Will I still be able to use my bmr torque arm?

If it bolts in the stock location on the rear centersection, then yes it should fit.

I sent my backing plates in and bought a driveshaft, other than that bolts in like stock. On a side note, not that its difficult but I had to make 2 new brake lines on my install, the stock ones are pretty gangly.

Will I still be able to use my bmr torque arm?

Yes, but you need to trim off some to fit not much. bmr website has a picture and template to show what needs trimmed, took me 10 mins to do and works great.

Yes, but you need to trim off some to fit not much. bmr website has a picture and template to show what needs trimmed, took me 10 mins to do and works great.

Same goes for Spohn. It took me a little longer because I broke a cut off wheel. lol. Pretty easy to trim though.

As for the s60 . It's more complete than I expected. I didn't read into the sway bar mounts and had some three inch clamps for the sway bar ready for when the rear arrived. They have mounts welded on and include bolts. I was pleasantly surprised. For someone like me needing a complete rear delivered with no surprises, it fit the bill. Performed flawlessly at the track.

need to send them your backing plates and thats it. mines been great no issues as of yet i have about 2k miles on it so far but am putting a 6.0 and f1 should be done within 2 weeks. then we will put it to the test

I have a 95 and didn't send them anything. Is the "send them your backing plates" for later years? My backing plates, brakes, and everything except the driveshaft bolted right on. Forgot, had to buy new lugnuts, my factory ones were Metric.

Al 95 Z28 S60

mines a daily driver i may get them to weld their backing plates on for a little extra money.

FYI ... the backing plates are not weld on. They bolt-on after the axle bearing is pressed on between the backing plates and the axle housing.

I purchased my S60 from Carl at Central Racing Parts and he is a great guy and very easy to deal with. Im still breaking it in and only got 200 miles on it but so far it feels like its gonna be amazing. The install was super easy!

I purchased mine from Carl at CRP as well and he is a great guy to deal with. He will answer all of your questions and, if he doesn't know, he will get the answer for you. Carl also got me the best possible deal anywhere.

Will I still be able to use my bmr torque arm?

Yes, but you will have trim it as already answered below.

Yes, but you need to trim off some to fit not much. bmr website has a picture and template to show what needs trimmed, took me 10 mins to do and works great.

Same goes for Spohn. It took me a little longer because I broke a cut off wheel. lol. Pretty easy to trim though.

As for the s60 . It's more complete than I expected. I didn't read into the sway bar mounts and had some three inch clamps for the sway bar ready for when the rear arrived. They have mounts welded on and include bolts. I was pleasantly surprised. For someone like me needing a complete rear delivered with no surprises, it fit the bill. Performed flawlessly at the track.

Actually, that is not true for the Spohn unless you already have one and want to use it. Spohn sells a mount specifically cut for the S60 before it is powder coated.

If you plan to add suspension parts, the time to do it is when you are doing your swap.

Also, if you plan to run a drag bar, order your rear with the swar bar mounts deleted, but MWC makes a nice drag bar that bolts to the stock mounts.

Now is also the time to add LCA relocation brackets if you decide to go that route too.

Check out my installation thread .... http://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1431851-my-latest-mods-finally-completed-s60-cm-ds-spohn-t-drag-sway-lca-s-phbr.html

One last thing I forgot .... I ordered new brake backing plates from my local Chevrolet dealership cheaper than buying new ones from Strange and shipped them to Strange. I kept my existing 10-bolt intact for a future demod if necessary.

yeah backing plates from strange are like $369 crazy price gm is probably cheaper i got a nice used set for 80 shipped to strange.

I have a 95 and didn't send them anything. Is the "send them your backing plates" for later years? My backing plates, brakes, and everything except the driveshaft bolted right on. Forgot, had to buy new lugnuts, my factory ones were Metric.

Al 95 Z28 S60

Yes, LS1 cars require you to send the backing plates in, the LT1 cars do not.

FYI to all on the backing plate thing... on the 93-97 brakes Strange includes a nice set of billet black anodized caliper mounts at no extra cost.

The 98-02 cars require you to send in a set of caliper mounts and tin shields. Strange had some in stock still.

The tin shield part is still available, but the caliper mount bracket is now obsolete other than the RH one for 4ch.

I may consider making new ones once we move to our new shop in a few months, as we will have a cnc mill there.

FYI to all on the backing plate thing... on the 93-97 brakes Strange includes a nice set of billet black anodized caliper mounts at no extra cost.

The 98-02 cars require you to send in a set of caliper mounts and tin shields. Strange had some in stock still.

The tin shield part is still available, but the caliper mount bracket is now obsolete other than the RH one for 4ch.

I may consider making new ones once we move to our new shop in a few months, as we will have a cnc mill there.

As of March of last year, the 3-channel plate assemblies were reasonably plentiful and were about $100 each shipped. My local dealership found them in stock in Michigan and matched the Internet pricing so I "kept my money local". The GM parts websites online show them listed, but I would definitely call before ordering to be sure. Sometimes they list items like this even when they are no longer available.

http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab147/annetteandbrian/Camaro%20SS/Miscellaneous%20Posts/Dscn1518.jpg

http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab147/annetteandbrian/Camaro%20SS/Miscellaneous%20Posts/Dscn1519.jpg

Hey Brian,
Are those 2.5 inch wheel studs you got the 'long' wheel stud option, and do they stick far enough out of your drag wheels to satisfy the NHRA wheel stud protrusion rule?

Hey Brian,
Are those 2.5 inch wheel studs you got the 'long' wheel stud option, and do they stick far enough out of your drag wheels to satisfy the NHRA wheel stud protrusion rule?

They are the 2" long 1/2"-20 screw-in stud kit .... Strange Part No. A1025. I don't believe Strange has a 2-1/2" long stud kit, at least they don't list one .... 2" or 3" long in a 1/2"-20.

The basic NHRA rule says that the wheel stud must protrude into the hex portion of the lug by a distance at least equal to the diameter of the stud. The shank length of the mag lugs is 1/2" and the 2" long stud protrudes 1-3/8" from the mounting surface of the rotor. The mag lugs themselves are 1-3/8" long, so, the end of the stud is flush with the open end of the mag lug. Therefore, 7/8" of the 1/2"-20 stud protrudes into the hex portion of the mag lug .... hence legal ... !

If you are only going to run a drag wheel, I would opt for the 3" stud kit which most members recommend. Since I run ZR1's on the street with closed end lugs, I chose the 2" length.

I hope this helps.

Cool, thanks for the info. I'd probably get the 3 inchers and run open lug nuts on my TTMs.

Thanks for all the help guys I ordered my s60 from Mwc Monday. Can't wait to get it installed and get some track time.

Whats clearance like with the s60? Can you run a set of stranos with it?

I've been going back and forth between a mwc fab 9 and s60 for forever now, but I just don't have the $$ for the mwc.

hey guys im waiting to here back from carl at CRP on my s60 im about to order but i have a question. as far as the backing plates go, the car has abs\tc now but i am going to be deleting them. do i still need to send him my backing plates off my 10bolt?

^^^ yea you have to still send them in, i have my abs/tcs deleted too. They need them in order to install the axles. Although if you plan on running your four channel ever again I would let Carl know, cause I went to put my wheel speed sensor back in (just to plug the holes) and the axle ends got in the way. Something to think about, hope it helps

^^^ ... another yes. The axles go through the brake backing plates, therefore, unless you plan on installing the axles yourself, you need to send them in or buy new ones through Strange. I purchased a set from my local Chevy dealership (they matched an internet price) and sent them in. This way I was able to keep my 4.10-10-bolt for a potential de-mod.

As far as not including the reluctor rings, I would have them installed anyway. It is a reasonably low cost option and it would give you or a future owner the ability to re-activate the TC/ABS. To install them later would mean removing the axles and having them pressed on by a shop, re-stalling and setting up the rear again. Having a 3-channel rear, installing an ABS reluctor ring on a spool is a different story all together. It was not worth the cost to go to a high dollar differential over a spool for me.

^^^ ... another yes. The axles go through the brake backing plates, therefore, unless you plan on installing the axles yourself, you need to send them in or buy new ones through Strange. I purchased a set from my local Chevy dealership (they matched an internet price) and sent them in. This way I was able to keep my 4.10-10-bolt for a potential de-mod.

As far as not including the reluctor rings, I would have them installed anyway. It is a reasonably low cost option and it would give you or a future owner the ability to re-activate the TC/ABS. To install them later would mean removing the axles and having them pressed on by a shop, re-stalling and setting up the rear again. Having a 3-channel rear, installing an ABS reluctor ring on a spool is a different story all together. It was not worth the cost to go to a high dollar differential over a spool for me.

got everything all apart and ready to go out to carl at CRP. now i have a4 channel abs\tc i do believe. i was going todelete it all but for the $69 to have it set up its worth it. it would even be free if i took the reluctor rings offmy acles now. i wish i could run a spool since its a lot cheaper, but its mostly a street car so that wont work. also carl actually mentioned to speak with you about shocks\spring setup. what are you running on your car? im leaning towards single adjustable strange shocks up front andthe competition engineering adjustable shocks in rear since they are $90 for the pair and every review i have read people love them and have cut 1.3 60s with them etc. what i cant decide on is springs. currently i have the eiback pro kit that drops it 1.5" and its just to low. i also may want to do a 28" tall tire in the future so that wont work. i was looking at the 300lb springs for up front since i am full weight and hhave an iron block. but do they sit a stock height or lower it some? also what springs should i run in the rear?

got everything all apart and ready to go out to carl at CRP. now i have a4 channel abs\tc i do believe. i was going todelete it all but for the $69 to have it set up its worth it. it would even be free if i took the reluctor rings offmy acles now. i wish i could run a spool since its a lot cheaper, but its mostly a street car so that wont work. also carl actually mentioned to speak with you about shocks\spring setup. what are you running on your car? im leaning towards single adjustable strange shocks up front andthe competition engineering adjustable shocks in rear since they are $90 for the pair and every review i have read people love them and have cut 1.3 60s with them etc. what i cant decide on is springs. currently i have the eiback pro kit that drops it 1.5" and its just to low. i also may want to do a 28" tall tire in the future so that wont work. i was looking at the 300lb springs for up front since i am full weight and hhave an iron block. but do they sit a stock height or lower it some? also what springs should i run in the rear?

Yea, if you are running a predominantly street car, I agree with your decision not to go with a spool.

I recently installed Strange DA coilovers in the rear ...

http://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/1534718-all-mods-done-quest-better-ets-60s-rear-da-coil-overs-2-step-ll.html

... I like them so far, but, the main reason I went with coilovers is the height adjustability. I can adjust for my 315 555's, 27" QTP's and 28" ET Drag's (soon) ... I am currently running a 27" rear height which seems perfect. So far I took a full second off my 60's with 1.6x's.

My front setup is not on yet. I just finished a plug and wire install and plan to change my fuel filter before diving into the front end. I want the motor running as good as possible before getting back to the track to make adjustments. I do have my Strange DA fronts (300# springs) and new strut mounts ready to go on (will be taking out the stock ones assembled) and will be removing my front sway bar to let them do their job. I will adjust them to a 26" front ride height and then it's back to the track. My goal is low 1.5 60's to get me into the 6's/10's.

As far as your choices go, first decide what your car's primary use is ... my car is primarily for the track. I will drive it to the office every now and then (a whole 5 miles), but it is my track toy. I have no plans to gut it though and am careful with the modifications so I am able to demod if necessary for a future "street car" sale. This site is also very informative at times … read what others are doing and their results and don’t be afraid to ask questions.

Just got my S60 today from CRP, question, 2 grease fitting on the axle, for the axle bearings, how many pumps and how often?

Just got my S60 today from CRP, question, 2 grease fitting on the axle, for the axle bearings, how many pumps and how often?

Carl can get you that answer or you can contact Strange Engineering directly. There have been a few posts here on the same subject. I have Strange's Pro Race axles and they don't include the fittings with those.

^^^^ X2 I have pro race axles no grease fittings here.

yes my s60 came with grease fitting on the axles as well but looks like they have been greased already. also i have a breather on the top of the rear end i believe. do i need to run a tube off this?

yes my s60 came with grease fitting on the axles as well but looks like they have been greased already. also i have a breather on the top of the rear end i believe. do i need to run a tube off this?

Only if you plan on going mudding or driving thu creeks!! Lol

Only if you plan on going mudding or driving thu creeks!! Lol

lol gotcha