velox65

iTrader: (9)

I have a line on a 64 f-85 cutlass with a straight 6, Im thinking about buying it and doing a conversion. I have 2 5.3s, a 6.0 and a 5.7 laying around. I have a few questions.

1. I plan on going to a carb setup to reduce the wiring so I'll be using to msd control box.
2. What trans should I go with? a 700r4 or a 4l60e( I want to keep the wiring down)
3. Being factory ac how would I keep the ac? with the ls ac how would I get it to run off the factory setup
4. How would I go about keeping the gauges working.

I plan on using the brp swap kit and a hummer oil pan.

I can get the car for 2500$ and I plan on using it for my daily driver after this is done, using light ported 706 heads and a light cam(.525 lift) which I have already

oldngray

iTrader: (9)

You are going to get a boatload of opinions and options, as not all "kits" work perfectly for all situations. Am building a 65 Abody, the hummer pan was tooo low for me, made my own motormounts using the BRP mid length headers for exhaust. The AC , I used a Vintage direct fit, but made my own vent system.--Trans--700r, noncomputer-4L60 computer, the list for options is huge, the final answer is yours.. Good luck on the build, those make nice cars, I have a option to get a 65 Convert, just not enough time....

velox65

iTrader: (9)

I figured as much, I can do my own fab work. My main concern is the eletrics, Im hoping that with the carb conversion, msd box and a stand alone setup on a 700r4 that it will "pain free" other than engine fitment and ac and gauges functioning.

rfrankb4

2) Going with Carb and MSD setup you would need a standalone controller for the 4l60e i believe. The 700r4 would just need the normal carb kick down setup.

3) Going with Carb and MSD the factory AC compressor on the LS will not work correctly as I understand it. The LS uses a variable compressor. You would need one of the compressors like vintage air or Kwik performance sell. I used the full Vintage air set up and have been pleased with it. However, starting with the factory Chevelle setup if you have that would save some money.

4) straight forward on this one just need the 700r4 mechanical speedo, Autometer sells a conversion bung for the oil pressure, fuel and ammeter are unaffected. Tach would be driven off of your MSD box


- As a daily I would consider keeping the injection in your shoes since that was the big reason I did the LS swap in my daily. It is a personal preference and if you just are more comfortable with the Carb go for it.

However, as I priced it out even with a nice pre-made wiring harness purchase for the fuel injection you are still not saving any money going with a carb setup. Sticking with FI saves the cost of carb/MSD/intake manifold/14psi Pump at the expense of a 52psi Fuel pump/ wiring harness/ $300 tune.

rfrankb4

I modified my own harness but aside from the time i wasted on that the electronics portion of the swap was very low stress. I know for me at least it would have been more stress working on all the interface issues that swapping from the proven factory setup to the amalgamation of aftermarket solutions.

But again it could be different for you since you have a different skill set.


If you use a quality aftermarket harness with proven working motor + 4l80e the electronics part is plug and play with the complication of attempting to use a stock speedometer. I know there are some systems out there that take the electronic speed input from the computer and convert that into mechanical output. However, the Dakota digital new design set of gauges looks mighty nice and should work well. I wish that set had been out a year ago.

velox65

iTrader: (9)

I'm more versed in carbs, plus I have shelves of edelbrocks I could use, so all I'd need to buy is a intake and msd box. If the 700r4 works like that then that'll be the way I'd want to go. So it seems like a/c would be my main issue.

However I will look into keep the fi setup a little closer.