stevieturbo

I see double pinning as stronger.

But if the crank was already keyed and the damper was keyed. Would this be fine for a blower car ?

Or best to stick with a double pinned setup ? Basically I would prefer not to drill the new crank and have a new unpinned pulley/damper I can use that has the key slot.

TermnEatr

iTrader: (24)

Ive always heard a keyway was the strongest

stevieturbo

I'm referring to axial pinning, basically a long round key drilled at the interface with crank/pulley along the length of the crank.

Not the radial pinning that I see some kits use which would be pretty crap.

Just to clarify.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

im gunna say key because its a thicker piece of metal.

stevieturbo

Thicker ? Not sure what size pins you guys are using ? I havent measured the key, but I'm using 6.5mm diameter pins ( slightly larger than 1/4" )

Which would be very similar to the key, must measure it actually.

killernoodle

With a key, you have to machine the crank and pulley. Pinning just requires a drill and a tool, which is much more accessible.

stevieturbo

Yes, I'm asking because my crank is keyed and I have a new spare keyed but not pinned crank pulley I can use.

Or I can drill the new crank and use my old pulley that was already double pinned.

Obviously using the keyed setup would be neater and I'd prefer it if it was deemed strong enough
Pinning is good and strong, just not that nice.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Why not use the keyed balancer and put a pin on the other side?

68 SS

iTrader: (23)

The key way is stronger run the keyed balancer and if you feel the need pin it 180 deg from the key. My crank is double keyed FWIW.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I think they're both going to be pretty strong. If you want a keyed setup but you're worried about strength, maybe you could just install a larger key. This would require you to have both the crank and crank pulley out of the car so they could be machined. Also, make sure you buy a strong key made from good material... probably a higher grade steel with a high hardness rating. I'd imagine not all keys are created equal.

I would have used a key if I would have had the foresight to have my crank keyed when it was out. With that being said, my crank pulley is pinned with a single 3/4" long x 1/4" wide steel ping. I only used one pin because... seriously... there's no way I'm going to shear that pin. Don't forget that there's still one heck of an interference fit on the crankshaft - I was reminded of that as I pressed the crank pulley on and hung off my 36" breaker bar trying to torque the crank bolt. The interference fit provides a lot of strength. The pin is icing on the cake.