My oil is really dirty!
04-08-2012, 12:04 AM
#1
My oil is really dirty! Ok so my oil is very dark when I change my oil. It smells gassy and I'm trying to figure out the culprit.
I bought my block used and when the shop was swapping the motors they said it had nitrous plugs in it.
Could the rings be gapped large? Letting there be alot of blow by?
I also wonder about my PCV set-up
Here is a picture of my set-up
Should I run a pcv valve from the driver side port where the filter is and run a line to the capped port on the rear of the passenger side valve cover?
Also I'm wondering if my catch can is set-up right.
The top port is ran to the front port on the passenger valve cover, with the lower port running to the intake manifold.
Any help would be appreciated.
My catch can does get oil in it, I thought this was supposed to be the clean side. So if the air is traveling from the valve cover to the can then into the intake manifold... am I recycling oil back into the intake?
I bought my block used and when the shop was swapping the motors they said it had nitrous plugs in it.
Could the rings be gapped large? Letting there be alot of blow by?
I also wonder about my PCV set-up
Here is a picture of my set-up
Should I run a pcv valve from the driver side port where the filter is and run a line to the capped port on the rear of the passenger side valve cover?
Also I'm wondering if my catch can is set-up right.
The top port is ran to the front port on the passenger valve cover, with the lower port running to the intake manifold.
Any help would be appreciated.
My catch can does get oil in it, I thought this was supposed to be the clean side. So if the air is traveling from the valve cover to the can then into the intake manifold... am I recycling oil back into the intake?
04-08-2012, 06:26 AM
#2
That PCV system is as f'd up as a football bat. With breathers open to atmospheric pressure on the valve covers, you're creating two problems:
1.) Not generating crankcase vacuum to help the rings do their job.
2.) Allowing un-metered air into the intake manifold, which throws the PCM's fueling algorithm off.
If you reconnect the VC vents to the passive (no vacuum) fitting near the TB, and install a PCV valve (GM fixed-orifice, not aftermarket check-valve type), you'll find the engine runs better.
1.) Not generating crankcase vacuum to help the rings do their job.
2.) Allowing un-metered air into the intake manifold, which throws the PCM's fueling algorithm off.
If you reconnect the VC vents to the passive (no vacuum) fitting near the TB, and install a PCV valve (GM fixed-orifice, not aftermarket check-valve type), you'll find the engine runs better.
04-08-2012, 08:54 AM
#4
Mileage on the block was less than 4500 when i bought it so probably 7 to 8 thousand.
Oil is GC. Normal oil is change is around 2-3000 miles, that's because I usually change it twice a year, once during the winter and once at the beginning of the summer.
"If you reconnect the VC vents to the passive (no vacuum) fitting near the TB"
Can you explain this a little more to me? Because my NW throttle body has no nipple on it to run to the catch can.
I found a diagram that shows rear passenger nipple and drivers side port coming to a "T" then to a PCV then to the Intake manifold. With a Throttle body line running to the catch can then to the front passenger nipple.
Would I still be leaving one breather on the passenger side?
Oil is GC. Normal oil is change is around 2-3000 miles, that's because I usually change it twice a year, once during the winter and once at the beginning of the summer.
"If you reconnect the VC vents to the passive (no vacuum) fitting near the TB"
Can you explain this a little more to me? Because my NW throttle body has no nipple on it to run to the catch can.
I found a diagram that shows rear passenger nipple and drivers side port coming to a "T" then to a PCV then to the Intake manifold. With a Throttle body line running to the catch can then to the front passenger nipple.
Would I still be leaving one breather on the passenger side?
04-08-2012, 10:13 AM
#5
holy eco terrorist why are you changing your oil that much? the 3000 oil change hasnt been recommended for over a decade now? mobil 1 5w30 is good in a LS1 for 5K+ according to actual scientific used oil analysis testing. i change the oil in my 00 C5 when the dash tells me too (averaged 5-6K miles) and every time I get it tested blackstone labs tells me that it could have gone another 2-3K miles easily.
04-08-2012, 01:05 PM
#6
The driver's side connection, and the pass. side connection you have capped off, should be Y'd together and go to the catch can. The pass. side you have going to the catch can is the fresh air inlet, that should go to the TB upper connector. Ditch the breather on the oil cap. Add PCV valve between the CC and the TB. Then you have the stock setup, which is OK as long as the CC works.
04-08-2012, 01:32 PM
#7
holy eco terrorist why are you changing your oil that much? the 3000 oil change hasnt been recommended for over a decade now? mobil 1 5w30 is good in a LS1 for 5K+ according to actual scientific used oil analysis testing. i change the oil in my 00 C5 when the dash tells me too (averaged 5-6K miles) and every time I get it tested blackstone labs tells me that it could have gone another 2-3K miles easily.
However, I shouldn't say breakdown per se, I worry that the periods of sitting have made it waxy and the temperature shifts have made it thicken.
Last edited by My6speedZ; 04-08-2012 at 01:41 PM.
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04-08-2012, 01:36 PM
#8
The driver's side connection, and the pass. side connection you have capped off, should be Y'd together and go to the catch can. The pass. side you have going to the catch can is the fresh air inlet, that should go to the TB upper connector. Ditch the breather on the oil cap. Add PCV valve between the CC and the TB. Then you have the stock setup, which is OK as long as the CC works.
04-08-2012, 02:46 PM
#9
Because After the car sits through the winter out in the carport its been through several temperature changes which has more effect on breaking down a synthetic than actual driving.
However, I shouldn't say breakdown per se, I worry that the periods of sitting have made it waxy and the temperature shifts have made it thicken.
However, I shouldn't say breakdown per se, I worry that the periods of sitting have made it waxy and the temperature shifts have made it thicken.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
04-08-2012, 03:05 PM
#10
yeah, i have seen scientific data that proves otherwise. are you guessing or do you have UOAs that back your claim? besides my own personal ones here is a guy with a LS1 that sent in a sample every 1K miles until his oil was proven to be done. 18K miles on mobil 1, 5w30 before it actually broke down to the point it needed to be changed.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
Also, I know UOA can warn of future failures by reading the levels. But I personally think the whole UOA thing is some what a current fad that is over played.
As far as this "guy" I think it's a case of just because you can doesn't mean you should.
And it also has nothing to do with my thread.
Last edited by My6speedZ; 04-20-2012 at 08:53 PM.
04-08-2012, 04:31 PM
#11
I do a filter & oil change when the oil on the stick gets dark-which is like 4,000 miles for me. GC here also.
While I still think your PCV setup is the culprit, what filter are you using? Have you cut one open? I'm also wondering if the oil filter bypass valve is stuck-allowing the oil to bypass the filter.
While I still think your PCV setup is the culprit, what filter are you using? Have you cut one open? I'm also wondering if the oil filter bypass valve is stuck-allowing the oil to bypass the filter.
05-03-2012, 05:53 AM
#16
05-03-2012, 06:21 AM
#17
This thread is all over the f'ckn place. OP, search & find a proper schematic of how to run lines. Re-route lines correctly, clean MAF sensor & drive. PCM will re-calibrate itself over time.
05-03-2012, 03:03 PM
#19
Because After the car sits through the winter out in the carport its been through several temperature changes which has more effect on breaking down a synthetic than actual driving.
However, I shouldn't say breakdown per se, I worry that the periods of sitting have made it waxy and the temperature shifts have made it thicken.
However, I shouldn't say breakdown per se, I worry that the periods of sitting have made it waxy and the temperature shifts have made it thicken.