Drag Racing Results - Dont know if its good or not! Advice please!

Hey everyone, im new to the forums and new to the whole LS1 F-Body crew... But im loving it already. I just have a few questions and concerns on my new car at the track.

I have a 2002 SS Camaro SLP with 121k miles, i just bought it and found out it has Crane gold quick lift 1.82 rockers, chromoly pushrods, comp 918s good for .600 lift, ls7 lifters, stock 241 heads. SLP Blackwing lid with ported TB i think its a 80mm airway, it either has dual walboro intanks or the racetronix fuel pumps not sure, i believe a stock rear gear, kooks long tubes y pipe with headers 3" all the way back through a flowmaster to CME's no egr and a tune from Champion Motor sports... Supposedly it made 375hp and 390tq to the wheels. Its got bilstien adj. front coilovers and bilsten rear shocks with adj lowering sprigs. Staggered 19" and 20" HRE 10 spoke wheels with 285/30R20s on back and 275/30R19 on front. All stock torque arm lower control arms and no relocation brackets.. For now :)

Now I went to the track near me and ran
60ft 2.262
330 5.772
1/8 8.581
MPH 86.91
1000 10.955
1/4 12.954 @ 112.72.

Im wondering if tht sounds right ? I left at around 1800rpm easing off the clutch and nailing it spinning first to second and then into third where i held 3rd straight through the traps crossing at like 6700rpm. I know i should have reloc. Brackets and lcas torque armand adj panhard bar for help with a little wheel hopp and 60fts. Just want to know if the cars doing alright i know the tires and rims arent helping either, cant put a tire on yet till i get a moser 12 bolt in future. Any advice helps sorry for the bible first post haha just want best advice and i know its on this forums!!

Thanks Giancarlo

Before making a bunch of changes.... try getting it to hook....practice launching.

Spinning skews your MPH and ET's suck. I was running 113 @ 12.0's and 114 @ 11.8's just to compare.

Make one change at a time...but get it to hook first.

Yea i plan on going back in a few weeks to run again, going to do a little burnout next time and try to get er to stick. Track was prepped crappy too so ill hope next time will be better. I just want to know if im average right now. next time im hoping for mid 12s :)

I agree, work on the 60' before you do anything. I don't want to hand out potential ETs of where I think the car should be, but I will say it's running a damn strong ET for that weak 60'....she has a lot left in her. Just keep practicing, maybe try leaving off idle and gently rolling into it. Go around the water, do a quick burnout to pick up some track rubber, etc..

I appreciate it i know the cars got alot left in her! Im not gna mod anything only thing i have planned is a e cutout for sound... Its really hard to hook at all with these hankook v12s on the HRE 20" rims so im going to lower the psi in the rears a bit and do a little burnout to get them warm.. I was leaving at litterally 1800 rpm!

Don't even leave at 1800 RPM, man..thats too much. Go around the water box, pull up past it, back up a little, do a good burnout, enough to smoke the tires (street tires or not, smoke them), as soon as the smoke up, let up and roll up. At this point give the throttle a good jab to make sure the track is hooking and your tires are dry. Once you roll up to the tree and get staged, DON'T put your foot on the throttle, just hold the brake. Once the light goes green, TAKE YOUR TIME (RT doesn't mean shat) and ease into the throttle. I go 1/4 throttle until I feel the ass squat and grab, then roll WOT quick. 1.8s are not a problem at the track I run at on street tires. Every track is different however, so compensate accordingly.

Here's a vid of mine.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urC_0F0Su9E&list=UUywarSWZ2j4uZFfdh_cA5gg&index=6&feature=plcp

Im oing to give that a try !!! Hoping for low 12s id be happy with a 12.4! :)

he has a stick car. ive had good luck slipping the clutch from 3500 then dumping it about when the weight transfers. this is all stock setup btw on all seasons.

he has a stick car. ive had good luck slipping the clutch from 3500 then dumping it about when the weight transfers. this is all stock setup btw on all seasons.

I know he is a manual. He can still leave from idle-1500 RPM and roll into it..

I know he is a manual. He can still leave from idle-1500 RPM and roll into it..if he wants to dead hook to a 2.3 60' haha. you have to shock the drivetrain a little bit, it is nothing like an automatic car. launching the 2 are so different it's not even funny.

if he wants to dead hook to a 2.3 60' haha. you have to shock the drivetrain a little bit, it is nothing like an automatic car. launching the 2 are so different it's not even funny.

He said he left at 1800 and spun all thru 1st. I already know whats going on, I'm just trying to get him to back off the RPM and then work his way up. Telling him to leave at 3500 RPM and feather the clutch is misguiding him.

haha maybe better tires to help

telling him to dry hop after the burnout :lol:

Lol if i get better tires i have a feeling im going to be leaving the track minus a 10 bolt so im just gna try to get a better time as is, i think the cars got a mid 12 in it. I think im going to grab some lcas and relocation brackets though.

Put drag radials on it ur not gonna break it just cuz u have them just don't be doin 5000 dumps if ur scared of the rear end

telling him to dry hop after the burnout :lol:

This^^^^ is not good advice. Dryhopping is not going to make it hook any better. Also no need to smoke street tires. I have cut plenty of 1.8 60 ft times on regular street tires just going around the water box and turning them over a few times to get the dirt off and warm them up a little. A stick car will bog very badly if you don't bring the revs up some. He needs to bring the revs up to at least 2500 -3000 and learn to ride the clutch some while feeding it throttle. It takes practice. Another thing make sure you air down your rear tires to around 20 -22 lbs on regular radials.

Put drag radials on it ur not gonna break it just cuz u have them just don't be doin 5000 dumps if ur scared of the rear end

Wrong answer. If he wheel hops bad it will break a rearend. Needs to make sure he has LCA and relocation brackets as that will help tremendously with wheel hop.

telling him to dry hop after the burnout :lol:

Who told him to do that?

Don't even leave at 1800 RPM, man..thats too much. Go around the water box, pull up past it, back up a little, do a good burnout, enough to smoke the tires (street tires or not, smoke them), as soon as the smoke up, let up and roll up. At this point give the throttle a good jab to make sure the track is hooking and your tires are dry. Once you roll up to the tree and get staged, DON'T put your foot on the throttle, just hold the brake. Once the light goes green, TAKE YOUR TIME (RT doesn't mean shat) and ease into the throttle. I go 1/4 throttle until I feel the ass squat and grab, then roll WOT quick. 1.8s are not a problem at the track I run at on street tires. Every track is different however, so compensate accordingly.

Here's a vid of mine.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urC_0F0Su9E&list=UUywarSWZ2j4uZFfdh_cA5gg&index=6&feature=plcp


You did...

How is jabbing/bumping the throttle after the burnout telling him to wheel hop. I even included a vid of me doing it personally for those who needed a visual. Watch the vid, Killer. Then tell me where the wheel hop occurs please.

Pay close attention from 33-35 seconds. See how easy that is?

How is jabbing/bumping the throttle after the burnout telling him to wheel hop. I even included a vid of me doing it personally for those who needed a visual. Watch the vid, Killer. Then tell me where the wheel hop occurs please.

He said DRY hop. Dry Hopping is what you described. it dont make it hook better.. its what you said....to see how well the track is gonna hold.. And for reference, I leave at 3900-4100 rpm and slip the hell outta the clutch as if i were launching a motorcycle. NO shocking of the drivetrain! whoever said that above is clueless. thats the last thing you want to do! Im hard on the clutch, but i do alright. SLIP AND SLIDE!!!

He said DRY hop. Dry Hopping is what you described. it dont make it hook better.. its what you said....to see how well the track is gonna hold.. And for reference, I leave at 3900-4100 rpm and slip the hell outta the clutch as if i were launching a motorcycle. NO shocking of the drivetrain! whoever said that above is clueless. thats the last thing you want to do! Im hard on the clutch, but i do alright. SLIP AND SLIDE!!!

Well, I apologize for the confusion, thats definitely not how I meant to describe it. I'm simply saying bump the gas after the burnout. Its right there in the vid. Last thing I was trying to say was dumping the clutch, lol

Well, I apologize for the confusion, thats definitely not how I meant to describe it. I'm simply saying bump the gas after the burnout. Its right there in the vid. Last thing I was trying to say was dumping the clutch, lol

i know you werent sayin to dump the clutch. someone else was... and I know what you meant by blipping the throttle. its called dry hoppin by old drag racers. its just a DRY HOP after the burnout. to make sure its gonna hook.....just as you explained

i know you werent sayin to dump the clutch. someone else was... and I know what you meant by blipping the throttle. its called dry hoppin by old drag racers. its just a DRY HOP after the burnout. to make sure its gonna hook.....just as you explained

I see where the miscommunication is. I interpreted "dry hop" as wheel hop. Never heard it called that. Anyway, it will let you know real quick if you're tires are still wet, going to hook, or if the track is slick. If my car grabs on that jab, then it gives me a good reference point regarding how hard to attempt to launch. It helps me, maybe its not for everyone, I was simply making a suggestion that has been used for quite some time now.

At 1800 rpms and spinning sounds like your dumping it at 1800 ( no good ) Like stated you need to be around 3k and slip it out a bit and get the car rolling then fully release the clutch. Stick cars need RPMs out of the hole but without dumping the clutch. Practice on the street for a bit!

Thanks alot for all the answers and support guys i really appreciate your time!!! I guess i gotta slip the clutch more and try and get it to settle im going to grab some lcas and reloc brackets also just spin off the tires to get them warm. Im also gna take out the front sway bar for some better weight transfer. Only thing i know last time at the track there was no glue down and i would ride the clutch a bit nail it and spin like nothing im gna try for a better 60ft forsure this weekend!

Wrong answer. If he wheel hops bad it will break a rearend. Needs to make sure he has LCA and relocation brackets as that will help tremendously with wheel hop.

I have a stock ten bolt with drag radials and have never had a issue with wheel hop and that is slipping the clutch and doing 5000 dumps but that's just me

I have a stock ten bolt with drag radials and have never had a issue with wheel hop and that is slipping the clutch and doing 5000 dumps but that's just me

If you have never had ANY problem with wheel hop or tire shake on a drag radial then you either haven't raced much or you are making any power. You have LCA which he doesn't. That is why it was recommended that he get LCA and relocation brackets was to try and prevent wheel hop. That Vindicator cam you have needs to be launched above 5000 on a stock cube motor because it is a dog down low.

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The rear gears are most likely not the answer because with that cam it pull through that gear faster anyways. Does it feel like its stock or does it still have more umph than that at least.
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Vengeance vindicator cam, pacesetter long tubes, ory, adj. lca's and panhard bar, 275 drag radials, Texas drivetrain stage III clutch


This is from another thread about a guy with a MS3 cam and car feels slow. He has 3.42 gears and that cam needs at least 4.10. You telling him gears aren't the answer. lol. Dude how long have you been racing or even fooling with building cars? Some of us have been at this stuff awhile. Like 20+ years and some longer.

i've had the best luck slipping the clutch into a dump out off the line. obviously not everyone does. i've managed a best of 1.80 60' on stock everything minus a lid and muffler, so apparently i was doing something right.

i also don't think this dryhop method is worth a damn. there is a shit ton of rubber behind the beams, it is no indication of what the track will hold. even with my weakass car many times it has cut a 1.8 60' and then after hooking first it would start spinning about halfway through second. granted, this is on a track nicknamed "ice r p". i hate trying to launch stick cars. i feel like it's on match sticks anyway so if the stars align and it does hook i'll most likely be walking home.

and no i refuse to invest 1/2 the value of the car into a race ready rearend setup. what ppl don't tell you is that you also need a driveshaft, clutch, and scattershield...at the very least.

Reading all of this about wheel hop reminds me of my first time to the track yesterday with my car...but it was my car doing he hopping.

There was a bran new (or it looked like he just got it) zr1 vette. He went around the water box, no burn out, some narly wide back tires. When he launched I swear he had tire hop for about 600ft...let off, and then you heard that engine roar.

Sucker still ran like 13.4

[QUOTE=GtoSpd;16188369]Don't even leave at 1800 RPM, man..thats too much. Go around the water box, pull up past it, back up a little, do a good burnout, enough to smoke the tires (street tires or not, smoke them), as soon as the smoke up, let up and roll up. At this point give the throttle a good jab to make sure the track is hooking and your tires are dry. Once you roll up to the tree and get staged, DON'T put your foot on the throttle, just hold the brake. Once the light goes green, TAKE YOUR TIME (RT doesn't mean shat) and ease into the throttle. I go 1/4 throttle until I feel the ass squat and grab, then roll WOT quick. 1.8s are not a problem at the track I run at on street tires. Every track is different however, so compensate accordingly.

Here's a vid of mine.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urC_0F0Su9E&list=UUywarSWZ2j4uZFfdh_cA5gg&index=6&feature=plcp[/QUOTE
I also just purchased my first ls1 camaro a4 it has a small cam 3600 stall pacesetter 1 3/4 headers bbk ssi intake 30# injectors bbk fuel rails underdrive pulley. Now it also supposed to have ported tb n ported 853 heads with some tranny work done. What should i roughly expect to see in the 1/4 on a 295 drag radial and full adj rear suspension/shocks?

[QUOTE=GtoSpd;16188369]Don't even leave at 1800 RPM, man..thats too much. Go around the water box, pull up past it, back up a little, do a good burnout, enough to smoke the tires (street tires or not, smoke them), as soon as the smoke up, let up and roll up. At this point give the throttle a good jab to make sure the track is hooking and your tires are dry. Once you roll up to the tree and get staged, DON'T put your foot on the throttle, just hold the brake. Once the light goes green, TAKE YOUR TIME (RT doesn't mean shat) and ease into the throttle. I go 1/4 throttle until I feel the ass squat and grab, then roll WOT quick. 1.8s are not a problem at the track I run at on street tires. Every track is different however, so compensate accordingly.

Here's a vid of mine.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urC_0F0Su9E&list=UUywarSWZ2j4uZFfdh_cA5gg&index=6&feature=plcp[/QUOTE
I also just purchased my first ls1 camaro a4 it has a small cam 3600 stall pacesetter 1 3/4 headers bbk ssi intake 30# injectors bbk fuel rails underdrive pulley. Now it also supposed to have ported tb n ported 853 heads with some tranny work done. What should i roughly expect to see in the 1/4 on a 295 drag radial and full adj rear suspension/shocks?

As long as its tuned right and you run in good DA (0-1500'), I don't see why it shouldn't run low 12s or high 11s.

[QUOTE=2000whitevert;16229232]

As long as its tuned right and you run in good DA (0-1500'), I don't see why it shouldn't run low 12s or high 11s.

Thats exactly what i was thinkin every1 i talked to tryed sayin mid 12s at best but judging by the 100s of cars runnin 12.30-12.40 bolt on wise i have more n also some weight reduction id say about 150#s. I know tune is the main piece to the hp puzzle so hopefully it has a good tune i have yet to see..

WOOOOOOO.... Went to the track again today and did a few things differently. First i did some free mods(ram air, tb bypass) and did a diff fluid swap. I launched at around 3500 rpm and rode the clutch out on a few runs and managed a best 60ft of 1.8 on 20s!!! Only problem i missed 2nd on that pass but still ran a 12.7 at 110... Fail! Went back and did a 1.9 60ft and managed a 12.3 at 113 wicked i know the car still has more in it. I have lcas, reloc brackets a FTRA and a cut out. Hopefully do a little better next time.

Only issue i had was i felt the clutch starting to stick to the floor. I know its known for it and the fluid should be flushed now its black, but im having troubble with the bleeder. I will be taking out the tranny and building it all this winter for now i will be just watching the fluid.

NICE!! GOOD JOB!! :cool: