Western Members - Need Suspension Help in Vacaville/Fairfield/Suisun Area

Hey guys, I am really in a bind here. I just recently had some work done on my drivetrain and now the drivetrain/transmission shop is telling me they can't fix the "suspension" problem that is occurring and I need to come pick up my car.

The driveshaft fell out due to a bad u-joint. The shop ended up putting in a new driveshaft, new ring and pinion gear set, new pinion bearing set, new yoke, new u joints and over $600 in labor/shipping/misc that amounted to $1750. I picked up the car and the rear made a horrible sound anytime I hit a bump in the road, which is quite frequent out here. So I took the car back to him and he said "We can fix it."

Now, the shop is telling me they can't fix my "suspension" problem. I don't know if I should pick up my car. Would that legally show that I am accepting their failure? I didn't have this problem before the driveshaft blew. The guy claims that local shops won't touch the car because of all the aftermarket suspension stuff on it. He also says that he talked to UMI when adjusting the torque arm and they are giving him erroneous settings that will cause the driveshaft to pop out again.

Currently, when I look under the car with the suspension loaded, the rear swaybar is rubbing on the Moser 12 bolt differential and the bar above the pumpkin (upper panhard bar?) is also rubbing on the top side of the pumpkin. I am not sure if this is what is hitting or not. I need help ASAP because after >$5K into the rear end, I can't even drive it. It almost makes me have to get rid of my car and I really don't want to. I just can't afford to put another couple thousand dollars into it to just to make it drivable. If I put $2K into it, I would at least want new heads.

Any help is appreciated! Shop suggestions? What to do suggestions? What the problem could be suggestions? Thanks. (Sorry for the novel)

Mods:
Koni Shocks (4/4)
Strano Springs
BMR SFCs
UMI adjustable TA
UMI LCAs
LCA re-location brackets
Moser 12 bolt
UMI adjustable panhard bar
whole new f**** drivetrain!

Are the LCA's adjustable? If so... Could you just adjust them forward? It's not that hard.

The swaybar shouldn't be rubbing on the differential. It should be mounted properly to the axle tubes like on any other car. You sure that's the proper swaybar for the 12 bolt?

Are you sure it's a Moser 12 bolt?

Get us some pictures.

Can you get pics like Zex asked? I have this feeling something wasn't quite done correctly when they put it all back together, but I can't pinpoint it based on just the description alone... Your suspension sounds very similar to ours.

I am sure it is a Moser 12 bolt. The LCAs are not adjustable. My concern is that the rear end may not have been installed correctly in the first place years ago and my problems are originating there. It is the stock sway bar. Would an aftermarket sway bar provide more clearance around the "pumpkin?"

So after picking up the vehicle and chatting with the shop technician for awhile, it appears to be the torque arm adjustment that he is concerned about. When he set the pinion angle per manufacturer (UMI) instructions and talking to UMI tech support, the differential was rubbing both the sway bar and the upper panhard (i think that is what it's called) bar. When he backed off the adjustment, it provided clearance so I could drive it without breaking anything. He said in order to do that, the adjustment on the torque arm is now barely threaded on. I just need a shop that knows suspension adjustment to hook me up.

As far as pics, I will get under there this weekend. It is raining until Saturday.

Call Abel Chevy in Rio Vista and ask for Rich Willhoff, he will know a good shop or maybe Abel can help. Rich is the go to guy for all the Vette owners in Nor Cal.

So Adjustable LCAs may be my answer. I am going to go take pics now and then try and remember how to post them. I may go with UMI On-car Adjustable Control Arms- Poly/Roto-Joint (http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_138_101&products_id=393).

I will go ahead and order Strano sway bars at the same time too. Does anyone know if the bent section in the middle that goes around the differential (pumpkin) is bigger to provide more clearance? Thanks!

View from passenger side - The sway bar is rubbing on the pumpkin but the upper panhard bar is now only about an inch away from the pumpkin. Before he adjusted the torque arm there was no clearance between it and the upper panhard bar.
http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0015/62/11/15712611_large.jpg

View from driver side
http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0015/62/90/15712609_large.jpg

View from behind - You can see the "rub" marks from the sway bar here
http://carphotos3.cardomain.com/images/0015/62/60/15712606_large.jpg

Will adjustable LCAs allow me to move the rear end forward enough to set the pinion angle on the torque arm where it should be?

Will adjustable LCAs allow me to move the rear end forward enough to set the pinion angle on the torque arm where it should be?

It might. Show us a picture of how the wheels sit in the wheel well with the car on the ground (just take a pic of each of the rear wheels). Ideally the wheel should be centered in the wheel well. Also, the issue with the swaybar rubbing looks to be caused by endlinks that are too long, causing the swaybar to rotate into the cover... it looks like if the endlinks were shorter, the swaybar would be at the proper rotation not to rub. also, the endlink bolts are installed upside down. :bang:

What brand of lower control arm relocation brackets are those?

Ok, so I had another thread located here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1536742-pics-does-look-off-anyone.html The issue appears to be my torque arm. I will keep you all posted. The LCA re-location brackets are UMI or BMR (can't remember), but I just ordered some Strano 35/22 sway bars/sway bar spacers and I hope the instructions are good enough so that when I install them, the endlinks and u-bolts are installed correctly.

Heh, they said what I said regarding LCAs, wheel well pics, and endlinks. The torque arm does need to be adjusted to pull the rear forward, and if that doesn't fix the wheel well gap then you will need adjustable LCAs.

i have had the same springs/shocks with a moser and yes your torque arm will need to adjusted and pinion set, i have never seen this before :/ No a stock sway vs aftermarket sways wouldnt give you more room, they are thicker vs the factory rear. Ill take a pic tomarrow and show you on mine. I also assume your relocation brackets are weld in correct? the problem is the torque arm ....

maybe its just me, but the spacers inbetween the upper and lower rear swaybar bushings normal size or are they bigger? lol i didnt even read zex already pointed that out

i have had the same springs/shocks with a moser and yes your torque arm will need to adjusted and pinion set, i have never seen this before :/ No a stock sway vs aftermarket sways wouldnt give you more room, they are thicker vs the factory rear. Ill take a pic tomarrow and show you on mine. I also assume your relocation brackets are weld in correct? the problem is the torque arm ....

maybe its just me, but the spacers inbetween the upper and lower rear swaybar bushings normal size or are they bigger? lol i didnt even read zex already pointed that out

You also didn't see the other thread he linked to...

Thanks guys. I look forward to any pics you guys have. It just confirms what the car should look like and gives me a point of reference. I will keep you all posted.

Here's some example pics of how it should look when properly done:
http://www.keliente.com/rear/rear%20017.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~filesj/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/2234796456.jpg
http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww72/bobdoless/tirebackrightcentered1.jpg

Thanks for all the help guys. I will keep everyone posted once I adjust the torque arm.

Anyone have pics of the bottom adjustment screw on a UMI torque arm, installed?