Nitrous Oxide - msd digital window switch install help

Ok I have already had my system hooked up for awhile, but I am now deciding to hook in a window switch for safety purposes. Ok so here is how I am seeing it.

Red-Power
Black-Ground
White-Connection to computer-coil wire
Yellow-supplies ground for my nitrous relay

My 2 main questions are #1 What is the easiest way to splice into the computer-coil wire and not f*** anything up? And #2 I already have a ground wire for my relay for my nitrous kit hooked up. So would I unhook the ground to it and use the msd window switch for ground to it with the yellow wire?

yes on the secound question and i have no idea on the first. i have a lt1. do you have a aftermarket ignition box? thats where i tapped into my tach wire and i would use a presure switch to. just to make sure you have enought fuel presure if not it shut the relay off. but this is exzactly how i had mine ran. i actullay had two of them hooked up for two stages

No i don't have a pressure switch and no aftermaeket ignition box so im guessing ill have to tap into the computer wire

Nobody else has any more info they could add?

Ok I have already had my system hooked up for awhile, but I am now deciding to hook in a window switch for safety purposes. Ok so here is how I am seeing it.

Red-Power
Black-Ground
White-Connection to computer-coil wire
Yellow-supplies ground for my nitrous relay

My 2 main questions are #1 What is the easiest way to splice into the computer-coil wire and not f*** anything up? And #2 I already have a ground wire for my relay for my nitrous kit hooked up. So would I unhook the ground to it and use the msd window switch for ground to it with the yellow wire?

1. I use a quick connect on the RPM line.

2. Yes, use the yellow wire in place of the old ground.

1. I use a quick connect on the RPM line.
2. Yes, use the yellow wire in place of the old ground.


how do you do the number 1?

how do you do the number 1?

I used one of these:
http://www.ouros.co.uk/image/dproducts/econnect/1.jpg

I used one of these:
http://www.ouros.co.uk/image/dproducts/econnect/1.jpg

More info please! How does the quick connect work? And btw where the hell does the gray wire go lol?

More info please! How does the quick connect work? And btw where the hell does the gray wire go lol?

gray wire is not used. It actually breaks ground when activated, just the opposite of the yellow. I would tape it off.

The connector allows two wires to lay side by side and when clipped are electrically connected. Not my fav way to do it, but it works.

gray wire is not used. It actually breaks ground when activated, just the opposite of the yellow. I would tape it off.

The connector allows two wires to lay side by side and when clipped are electrically connected. Not my fav way to do it, but it works.

Lol you posted back just as I came inside from finishing wiring it all up. Earlier today I bought some of the quick connectors and used them to tap into the #10 ecu tach wire and everything works great! Thanks man

Ok so my only question left is about setting up your on and off rpm's. I set the on rpm at 040 wich I hope is 4000 rpm and I set the off to 059 wich I hope is 5900 rpm? Is that the right way of doing it?

Ok so my only question left is about setting up your on and off rpm's. I set the on rpm at 040 wich I hope is 4000 rpm and I set the off to 059 wich I hope is 5900 rpm? Is that the right way of doing it?

Set the cylinder setting to 4. Note you can verify its working by the fact it displays the correct RPM when on.

Yeah, that sounds right on RPM.

Set the cylinder setting to 4. Note you can verify its working by the fact it displays the correct RPM when on.

Yeah, that sounds right on RPM.

Yes I set it at 4. I tested it at 1 and the rpm's were way off and than turned it to 4 and set it in my window while I reved and rpm's were right on!

any reason why you want it to activate so late?

3000rpm seems to be the golden spot for kit activation with most people.

any reason why you want it to activate so late?

3000rpm seems to be the golden spot for kit activation with most people.

I did that so I can turn the nitrous on and launch the car so hopefully I can get could traction before the nitrous kicks in and it won't just spin. And when it shifts to second it is above 4000 rpm anyways so it won't affect that. Sound good or no?

Anybody think the above^ sounds like a good idea or should I have it come in earlier? I figure with the tires already traveling a good speed having it come on at higher rpm I willl have alot less chance with wheel spin in 1st. Does that sound right or just dumb?

Anybody think the above^ sounds like a good idea or should I have it come in earlier? I figure with the tires already traveling a good speed having it come on at higher rpm I willl have alot less chance with wheel spin in 1st. Does that sound right or just dumb?

sounds 100% plausible. i thought you had a 6speed.

I originally had my power wire to the nitrous activation switch( I have a dynotune switch center). The problem I was having was the digital box needs a few seconds to load because like you I had a 6 speed at the time and didn't want to spin I wanted to turn the spray on if I new I would spin on the initial hit. So if I ran someone on the highway from 40 or less I would just turn it on in 3 or 4th gear. Being there us a delay I got very annoyed and now the power to my switch panel is a keyed 12 volt source and the positive or the window switch shares that. This way once the car is started is already booted up and read to go. I don't know if you have this problem or hooked it up this way to begin with but just sharing my experience.

I originally had my power wire to the nitrous activation switch( I have a dynotune switch center). The problem I was having was the digital box needs a few seconds to load because like you I had a 6 speed at the time and didn't want to spin I wanted to turn the spray on if I new I would spin on the initial hit. So if I ran someone on the highway from 40 or less I would just turn it on in 3 or 4th gear. Being there us a delay I got very annoyed and now the power to my switch panel is a keyed 12 volt source and the positive or the window switch shares that. This way once the car is started is already booted up and read to go. I don't know if you have this problem or hooked it up this way to begin with but just sharing my experience.

Yes I have mine wired into th switch also and that might be something I have to thinkg about. if it was from roll race where i just wanted to use it a little bit than maybe I will need to think about timing it a little bit early