Cadillac CTS-V - 2004 cts-v clutch suggestions help

Hello,

I am looking to do a clutch kit and slave cylinder on my stock 2004 LS6 CTSV. I wasnt planning on replacing the flywheel because the car only has 50k and it is just a daily driver. I get 19mpg around town, i dont beat on it. My issue is the slave or the pressure plate now, its still grabs wonderful, just having some issues going into first. Sometimes I have to really pump the clutch and I bleed it numerous times.

Can anyone suggest where to buy? I am looking for OEM or a good quality OE.
The car is bone stock, so I am not really looking for a ls7 swap

Is it completely necessarily to change the flywheel too? I just planned on doing the disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing and slave....

Thank you all so much!

Getting rid of the POS "dual mass" flywheel is the biggest excuse for doing a clutch job.

Getting rid of the POS "dual mass" flywheel is the biggest excuse for doing a clutch job.

thank you for the suggestion, but I think I would like to keep this car as stock as possible. I would have bought all the parts from the dealer today but it was over 1000$, I thought that would have been absolutely stupid of me.

Most of the aftermarket stuff for this car is cheaper than staying OEM.

Most of the aftermarket stuff for this car is cheaper than staying OEM.

Is it good quality? They want almost 400$ for the slave cylinder.....

Is it good quality? They want almost 400$ for the slave cylinder.....

Better quality.

Better quality.

Thank you all so much the help.

Can you guys recommend manufacturers? I would like to purchase tonight

Being that my car has 53k miles would you recommend swapping the flywheel? Or can I just stick with the one in my car now?

As long as the rebound in the fly wheel is still there you wouldn't have to swap it unless you wanted to upgrade. I'd still say get rid of the +40lbs stock dual mass piece of crap, If you have 50K on that thing it's probably going to go soon if it hasnt already. Single mass flywheel is the way to go on these cars.

As long as the rebound in the fly wheel is still there you wouldn't have to swap it unless you wanted to upgrade. I'd still say get rid of the +40lbs stock dual mass piece of crap, If you have 50K on that thing it's probably going to go soon if it hasnt already. Single mass flywheel is the way to go on these cars.

can you recommend any parts specifically to use? maybe a setup you are using or have seen used with good success?

I'm running a Katech LS9X clutch/flywheel with a stock slave. It's a ZR1 twin disk clutch with a single piece 12lb flywheel. I love the way it drives, taking all that weight out the driveline gives you a much better throttle response imho. Check around, and I'm sure others will chime in with their selections and the results. This thread has a lot of info on the matter.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1512105-getting-rid-stupid-dual-mass-flywheel.html

Read:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1512105-getting-rid-stupid-dual-mass-flywheel.html

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1533556-ls7-clutch-installed.html

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1527798-ls7-clutch-parts.html

If I were in your shoes, I would do the LS7 swap. It's all OE parts and they work. You wont have to worry about the flywheel coming apart and a little better performance too.

thank you all so much.

I read that they have to pump the clutch a few times on a cold day with their ls7 swap? I am having to do that now...I am trying to fix that issue.

All this shim talk...does the shim go in between the slave cylinder and the trans? or between the slave cylinder and pressure plate? Is the shim even required?

no shim needed with the ls7 swap if you replace everything, as seen in the threads above....

When you pull your stock flywheel (if you haven't already) check the play between the to sections just for kicks. I still have mine sitting around to show people, it wobbles and there is zero rebound. Getting a smooth start was damn near impossible with mine.

no shim needed with the ls7 swap if you replace everything, as seen in the threads above....

but some of people say you might need shims for that setup. I will most likely just keep it all stock if i can find the whole kit cheap. either I do that or I sell my car for 15000.

Anyone want a 04 CTS-V for 15000? 53K miles. still perfectly drive-able.

if you buy just the clutch keep and keep everything else stock. Your gonna need a spacer

if you buy just the clutch keep and keep everything else stock. Your gonna need a spacer

well I might just buy a clutch disc, pressure plate, slave and pilot bearing from GM. Will I need a spacer then??? Is there a spacer in it from the factory? Where does this spacer go?

I heard a lot of good things about a ls7 set up. But I read a few things about the clutch having to be pumped on cold days or sometimes. I have this problem now, I am definitely trying to fix it. I just want the car to drive without issues. Im not looking for a clutch to hold more power. I daily drive the car, I do not plan on ever modding it.

I would give this guy a call tomorrow.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1531727-ls7-ls6-clutch-sale-all-clutch-accessories-sale-instock-ready-ship-today.html

I purchased my LS7 setup from him and he put together a list of exactly what I needed. Good prices too.

if your having to pump your clutch pedal, that sounds like a hydraulic issue. Might be your master that needs some attention

but some of people say you might need shims for that setup. I will most likely just keep it all stock if i can find the whole kit cheap. either I do that or I sell my car for 15000.

Anyone want a 04 CTS-V for 15000? 53K miles. still perfectly drive-able.

NO SHIM NEEDED IF YOU USE LS7 CLUTCH KIT AND LS7 SLAVE.

if you buy just the clutch keep and keep everything else stock. Your gonna need a spacer

This.

well I might just buy a clutch disc, pressure plate, slave and pilot bearing from GM. Will I need a spacer then??? Is there a spacer in it from the factory? Where does this spacer go?

I heard a lot of good things about a ls7 set up. But I read a few things about the clutch having to be pumped on cold days or sometimes. I have this problem now, I am definitely trying to fix it. I just want the car to drive without issues. Im not looking for a clutch to hold more power. I daily drive the car, I do not plan on ever modding it.

Again, no.

I would give this guy a call tomorrow.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1531727-ls7-ls6-clutch-sale-all-clutch-accessories-sale-instock-ready-ship-today.html

I purchased my LS7 setup from him and he put together a list of exactly what I needed. Good prices too.

They are not cheaper.

If people are pumping, it's air, or bad hydros. The LS7 is perfect for what you want.

They are not cheaper.

Cheaper than who?

FYI - I had issues getting into first at stops even after I flushed by clutch fluid 3 times. I swapped out the transmission fluid with synchromesh and my first gear issue went away. I assume it was due to new fluid, not necessarily specific the synchromesh. I also have a ’04, mine had 33K on it when I did the flush.

Cheaper than who?

sdparts.com

I compared everything down to shipping and outlined it in the above thread #1.

SD comes with all of the bolts and the other company does not; it adds about $50 iirc.

If you're going to fix the issue do it right and throw an LS7 setup in there and be done with it. No point in bandaiding the oe setup to save a few bucks, just a waste of money. Do it right and be done with it.

I am definitely not trying to save a few dimes. the OEM setup is like 615 for the flywheel, 320 for the clutch kit and 325 for the slave. I think i can get a ls7 kit for cheaper than that. I just want to make sure I do not have the same problem with a ls7 kit, because I read a few poeple are still having similar issues with reverse or 1st. thankfully i only have this issue with first gear and no other gear.


Will the ls7 slave cylinder plug right into my CTSV factory Master cylinder and line?

I saw something where the trans needs to clearanced for a ls7 slave?

If you were going to pay that much for a stock clutch, you'll be much happier with the LS7 prices. It's a very popular upgrade among all t-56 platforms (F-bodies, GTO, CTS-V, C5 vettes, etc.) so competitive pricing is out there.

Yes. The OEM master cylinder line connects without modification.

The bleed screw is at a slightly different angle coming off of the LS7 slave cylinder and requires about 1.5" of notch in the transmission's soft aluminum bellhousing. A hand saw could take care of it and you're really just enlarging the notch that's already there. Nothing to fear.

When people have issues getting in to 1st and Reverse that doesn't normally indicate a clutch problem with the gen 1 v's. More commonly this is attributable to a bad trans mount, and/or bad stock shifter bushings. Been there done that, CS trans mount and CS shifter bushings make a world of difference if stockers are shot.

If you were going to pay that much for a stock clutch, you'll be much happier with the LS7 prices. It's a very popular upgrade among all t-56 platforms (F-bodies, GTO, CTS-V, C5 vettes, etc.) so competitive pricing is out there.

Yes. The OEM master cylinder line connects without modification.

The bleed screw is at a slightly different angle coming off of the LS7 slave cylinder and requires about 1.5" of notch in the transmission's soft aluminum bellhousing. A hand saw could take care of it and you're really just enlarging the notch that's already there. Nothing to fear.

Im not entirely sure what i want to do yet. Part of me just wants to pull the thing apart and just replace the master & slave cylinder, clutch disk and pressure plate.

Then part of me likes the idea of a better clutch set up, but i hate the idea of putting non-factory parts in my car, and notching my t56


with all this talk about a dull mass flywheel, i take it my cts-v flywheel and clutch set up is not the same as my z06?

You guys are so helpful, thank you all!

When people have issues getting in to 1st and Reverse that doesn't normally indicate a clutch problem with the gen 1 v's. More commonly this is attributable to a bad trans mount, and/or bad stock shifter bushings. Been there done that, CS trans mount and CS shifter bushings make a world of difference if stockers are shot.

Brand new shifter assembly from Cadillac. Trans mount seems almost new.

The weird thing is, if i put it in second first, it will go into first without issue.

[QUOTE=with all this talk about a dull mass flywheel, i take it my cts-v flywheel and clutch set up is not the same as my z06?

You guys are so helpful, thank you all![/QUOTE]

It is a different setup, the V flywheel is composed of two semi independent sections that are spring loaded for lateral movement. When the flywheel is in good shape it can help give a smoother ride, the problem is that these things wear out, and when they do the disk facing the transmission will fail to rebound causing a clunking noise at initial engagement, this will also lead to a rougher ride. On top of that you can have vertical play when the rebound mechanism wears out that causes additional annoyances. The fact that the flywheel is composed of two separate chunks of steel means that it is a heavy sob. The flywheel by itself weighs over 40lbs meaning you have a much larger parasitic power loss than if you had a lighter flywheel. The picture is my OE flywheel after 90K and it was gone.

Brand new shifter assembly from Cadillac. Trans mount seems almost new.

The weird thing is, if i put it in second first, it will go into first without issue.

synchros?

The bleed screw is at a slightly different angle coming off of the LS7 slave cylinder and requires about 1.5" of notch in the transmission's soft aluminum bellhousing. A hand saw could take care of it and you're really just enlarging the notch that's already there. Nothing to fear.[/QUOTE]



The bleed screw for the stock CTS-V slave and the LS7 slave are not different. If you buy a GM LS7 flywheel, slave w throwout, pressure plate and clutch disc, and an LAPD C6 bleeder with the traight fitting, you do not have to notch the transmission or bell housing. I just put mine and did not hack up anything. I did use a piece of 5/16 rubber hose to protect the bleeder due to being close to the bare meatl and could rub it over time.

This picture show a new C6 LS7 slave installed, and it is directly pointed out the hole the original bleeder sticks out of.

synchros?

I am not sure my good man. I am waiting to hear back from the trans builder.

about 5 months ago, i had the reverse ring and synco replaced, along with a new reverse lock out. (car would pop out of reverse, never gave me trouble putting it in, just 50% of the time it would pop out after 5ft of driving in reverse)
at this time i bought the entire shift linkage assembly. Boot, linkage,bushings, trip piece, knob.

Got the car back together, no issues at all, drove excellent. 3 days ago it gave me trouble going into first maybe 2 times. didnt think much of it. well 2 days ago it did it more and more. Now its doing it almost every time i go to take off.

i really just want to sell it, but i can not sell a problem car to someone.

The first gear issue is common on all T56 transmissions. It's just the nature of the beast.

The first gear issue is common on all T56 transmissions. It's just the nature of the beast.

none of my vettes, camaros or ws6 had this issue.

I would keep driving it, but im afraid its going to screw up the actual transmission. sometimes it just physically wont go in. but twice yesterday it kind of popped in and i didnt like that. but it will always go in, if you go into second then first....maybe I will list it on the forum for sale and disclaim this issue.

I would hate to sell it in this condition, especially after i just put 2500 into the transmission and shiftier assembly....

none of my vettes, camaros or ws6 had this issue.

I would keep driving it, but im afraid its going to screw up the actual transmission. sometimes it just physically wont go in. but twice yesterday it kind of popped in and i didnt like that. but it will always go in, if you go into second then first....maybe I will list it on the forum for sale and disclaim this issue.

I would hate to sell it in this condition, especially after i just put 2500 into the transmission and shiftier assembly....

I always put it in 2nd to go into 1st gear or reverse. I basically have to and it is common on the V1 as mentioned. I learned to live with it. My F-body...does not do this and shifts perfectly because the shifter stalk links directly into the tailshaft to the selector mechanism. The V has multiple linkage connections and does this remotely. There is a big thread somewhere on trying to firm up every point where slop can be had that I will try when my LS7 clutch goes in, probably this winter.

I always put it in 2nd to go into 1st gear or reverse. I basically have to and it is common on the V1 as mentioned. I learned to live with it. My F-body...does not do this and shifts perfectly because the shifter stalk links directly into the tailshaft to the selector mechanism. The V has multiple linkage connections and does this remotely. There is a big thread somewhere on trying to firm up every point where slop can be had that I will try when my LS7 clutch goes in, probably this winter.


I am really sorry to hear that, I guess I will just live with this problem....

I might try bleeding the clutch again and swap the trans fluid to syncromesh. The guy that built the trans said use a mineral based ATF. Is syncromesh ok to use?

I will also check all the mounts and shifter bushings just in case.

Do you lubricate anything? like the shift linkage at the transmission?

Thank you everyone!

May as well swap out the shifter bushings while your at it, the cs bushings are much firmer than the oe ones. The more solid the bushings in that assembly the better, and for 25 bucks what can you lose.

https://creative-steel.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=37

May as well swap out the shifter bushings while your at it, the cs bushings are much firmer than the oe ones. The more solid the bushings in that assembly the better, and for 25 bucks what can you lose.

https://creative-steel.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=37

Awesome! thank you! do you know anything about syncro mesh vs dex atf?

I heard of a lot of people running a lot of different things in these trans. I can't make a reccomendation on trans fluid, but i will say stay away from dexron 5 or 6 atf's. Dex 5 is standard gm auto trans oil and it's know for not being very good. Dex 6 is what I run in my 2500's allison trans and dex six gets hot fast, had to bumb the fluid capacity on my allison to 18 quarts to keep it at a decent temp. Someone else may know more about fluid than I do, from my experience in the diesel racing world I would say look at amsoil.

I heard of a lot of people running a lot of different things in these trans. I can't make a reccomendation on trans fluid, but i will say stay away from dexron 5 or 6 atf's. Dex 5 is standard gm auto trans oil and it's know for not being very good. Dex 6 is what I run in my 2500's allison trans and dex six gets hot fast, had to bumb the fluid capacity on my allison to 18 quarts to keep it at a decent temp. Someone else may know more about fluid than I do, from my experience in the diesel racing world I would say look at amsoil.

thank you, i have not had 1 single issue since i started putting it in second before i put it in first....i might just try getting a real good trans fluid change and go from there...

The ctsv requires dextron 3 atf fluid. Amsoil torque drive is a popular option. I would read ctsv faq if I were you. Lots of good overall info.

The ctsv requires dextron 3 atf fluid. Amsoil torque drive is a popular option. I would read ctsv faq if I were you. Lots of good overall info.

i have that in it now, but i see a lot people running synchromesh with good success..

T-56 was designed to use atf not syncromesh fluid...... the fiber blocker rings to be specific need atf to work and live properly.....On the other hand many people seem to like synchromesh.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1091394-gm-synchromesh-not.html

There is a fair amount of debate on whether syncromesh is an acceptable alternative..

Correct me if I'm wrong, I thought that was an issue that became mute after tremec started making the T56. More of a borg warner T56 issue. Swapping the trans fluid should be done as a maintenance item, not a problem solution.

my trans builder said it's best to use a synthetic blend in the Tremec T56's

Be sure to get the delrin bushings for the shifter while you are in there as well as the creative steel shifter rod bushings, if no one mentioned it.

Can anyone tell me if a clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate out of a 6.2 Camaro will fit my 2004 LS6 CTS V and if so, are any modifications needed?

bump.

^^ I could be wrong, but doesn't the 6.2L camaro use the LS7 clutch?
I believe it's a 6-bolt flywheel too. Not sure though.
If both above are true, then yes, it should work.

^^ I could be wrong, but doesn't the 6.2L camaro use the LS7 clutch?
I believe it's a 6-bolt flywheel too. Not sure though.
If both above are true, then yes, it should work.

I don't know. Maybe someone could answer that. I have a clutch, flywheel and pressure plate that I was told came off an LS6 crate motor, but the number on the flywheel(according to a Chevy dealer)comes back to a Camaro SS 6 speed. The number is laser etched on the flywheel. It's GM 24 240 678. If anyone can cross this # and tell me what I have I would appreciate it.

Anyone?

bump.

I also found a number on the disc. 922 3223
The pressure plate has LUK stamped on it. but the part number is preceded with GM so I'm guessing this is who manufactures it for GM?

bump.

OK, I took the cluch assy I have to the dealer today. The part numbers show it will fit the 2010 and up Camaro 6.2 LSA and also the 2008 and up CTS V with the 6.2 LSA. The part number for my 04 CTS V has a different number. Does anyone know if or why it would not fit the 5.7 LS6? I wonder if the 08 CTS V and the 10 and up Camaro have the dual mass flywheel or is it exclusive to the 04-07 CTS V? Can any of you transmission guys answer this question?
A tech at the dealer said he didn't know without having the two clutches side by side to compare them. I'm trying to see if I can use this clutch or if I need to sell it and get an LS7 clutch to replace the Fidanza that's in it now. Any suggestions?

Post some pics. If it is a 6 bolt flywheel it should fit. And I still think it is the LS7 clutch.