LS4 Performance - Dry Nitrous

Has anyone ever done a small dry shot , like 35-50hp?
Im planning on NOS , but im thinking of doing something similar to a 2 stage kit. With the first stage being 35-50hp dry. And the second "stage being a wet 100shot.

Dry would be used when one pulls up beside a mustang with one to many boltons , and the wet would be for the track. Any thoughts?

wet by far alot easy to use, i think you would run into issues with the dry, since the dry is based off of your maf.

Yes my concern is also based off of the MAF...
Do we know of any MAFs that will bolt in and read quicker , but be of a similar size?

This post makes me remember its time to do my 02 sensors.....

Yes my concern is also based off of the MAF...
Do we know of any MAFs that will bolt in and read quicker , but be of a similar size?

This post makes me remember its time to do my 02 sensors.....

It's not a matter of how quickly the MAF can read, but rather how often the PCM samples input from the MAF.

You can spray dry pre or post MAF. The post-MAF setups use something similar to a MAF translator that bumps the frequency up when the system is triggered. Personally, I like dry because the ECM will see the N2O as extra load and pull spark. Wet setups rely on a series of relays to control everything, which if anything are less reliable than the MAF and ECM combo. If you do spray dry pre-MAF, you'll actually get a rich spike because of the delay in the plenum. The post-MAF setups usually allow you to add a delay so the N2O can get to the cylinder before enrichment takes place.

If you go dry, you won't need a faster ECM or MAF. The real potential hiccup is nozzle placement if you spray pre-MAF.

I think the system you proposed would work, but I think you would need two bottles if you wanted to use both systems at the same time at the track. You'd have to check, but I don't think you can T off of the same bottle.

You'll have trouble spraying much of anything in 1st anyway, so why not just stick with the wet 100 shot and spray in 2nd? You could always jet it for 50 and then swap jets to 100 for the track.

i think he could use 1 bottle, but the whole setup is way more confusing that it should be. wet will be the safer alternative but dry will be easier to install. the bottle can have a line with a Y block on it going to each nitrous solenoid. as long as only 1 was active there is no reason why he couldnt swap between using 2 kits off 1 bottle. the car we run here in a local series has 3 kits on it and we use 2 bottles this way. they Y together to 1 big line then splits to the separate solenoids. we can spray 1,2,3,4 (havent used the 4th yet) or any combo of them in any order as well. just a matter of changing which one opens when.

Well the other thing im thinking about is plugs and timing :S
I know i want to go with N20 , even with n20 theres quite a few options...

TBH dry kinda scares me , i cant trust my luck , as it seems if something can go wrong it will.....

If i go with a zex blackout kit it would be wet , support 35-175 hp and have no noids to hide. Go to the track install the 150pills and pull 6-8 in timing. Run 50 or 75 pills on the street , with a standalone timing commander to pull timing when the system is armed...

Need to think on it some more while i wait for the headers to be built. Still have to do the exhaust as well as i hate the factory crap. Thinking something like this.

DTH , 3" DP , DMH Cutout , 3"Ypipe , Dual 2.5's Into Borla Stypes , Tips.

THoughts there?

I'm working on the same exhaust setup. I'm looking for all the ways to kill bottom end as I can. I think what sucks is the gears are too tall. 2nd gear is a lull spot until 75-80 and then it starts pulling again.

Yeah i know i will loose some low end tq with an exhaust like that , but thats kind of the point lol , trying to make second gear less lame. This summer shes getting tore down and getting a whack of stuff done , namely a TEP trans w/ 3.69s a ported ls4 intake and possibly a mild cam.