2002SS#1811

I am going to have a TC installed and was wondering how much stall to go with? I still want to be streetable with no problems but also want to feel the change in the car for the money this will cost. Any advice would be great. The car is a 2002 SS with a 3.23 Also, who makes the better TC VIG or YANK??? Thank you.

DEEZ98Z

iTrader: (5)

I have a VIG 3600 and drive it every day... I would not go with anything lower then this... as you will only want to go bigger. We all do it ha ha

heyitsTaJay

they are both awesome TC's. you cannot go wrong with either. a vig3200 stalls closer to 3800 on a stock ls1. the 3500 will stall at 3500. get either one and you have a great converter!

WS64u2try

I had a TCI 3000.... wasn't enough for me.. haha.. now have a PT4000 in here.. I love it... I love the 4000

boomcase

Have to agree with everyone on this, do not go less than a 3500 stall, you wont even notice it after a while of driving, I like the TCI ssf 3500 stall for the money check out some of the sponsers here.

samz28

never had a problem with my tci ssf 3500, other than annihilating the nitto dr's at 16psi after a 10 second burnout (probably my launch technique, only got 4 passes since install).

you really have to run DR's with the hard hitting ssf 3500.

If you are cammed i would almost say go bigger, the SE of the ssf3500 seems to be more oriented for a lessor cammed car. I do have tq mgmt sorta still on, going from a 6089rpm shift back down to 4600 is not cool with my cam dyno profile. I hope to fix that with 6500 rpm shifts, then i'd get a 5000 rpm SE in theory (theory) which is still a little low imo for my cam profile.

ideally you want to shift where its safe (6500 is about max with cams/springs/etc) then drop back as close as possible to peak pwhp again). If you look at my dyno you can understand what im complaining about. 6089rpm shift is leaving alot of my power band "unused" for the cam i have.

In hindsight, picking a converter after installing all the cam/boltons would have given me better foresight for max drag racing effort. However im not unhappy at all. Just gotta shift higher in the rpm band to get more effect without screwing anything up.

2002SS#1811

Thanks to everyone for all the info so far, it really helps to hear from those who have been there!!!! I am new to ls1 tech and am loving it so far, thanks again and any advice/info is great to hear.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

For the street, a Vig 2800 / 3200 or Yank SS3800 or SY 3500 will be plenty; especially with factory tires.

foff667

iTrader: (2)

im very happy w/ my tci 3500 2.5 but wouldve gone with their 3800 or larger if i couldve done it over again. But i picked up over 6 tenths in the 1/4 and ive got 2.73's and dont think driveability is an issue at all

ChitownLS1

iTrader: (9)

foff667-

What tires are you running?

samz28

after today. i agree i should have gone bigger.

btw, screw nitto's run et streets and get a big *** stall if you want to drag race

the 3500 seems weak now that i've tried et streets. Too strong for 245-50-16 nitto's.

so logically a bigger stall and ET's is more logical choice.

hmm oh well.

foff667

iTrader: (2)

hoosier QTP dot's on a 16 in rim...first night with the converter/headers/tires untuned went from 13.3's to 12.7's w/ 1.88 60' hitting the rev limiter on the 2-3 shift...i was spinning the hoosiers a bit at the initial 20psi. By the next time I hit the track I'll have my heads/cam in though so my times shouldnt be comparible to what htey are now.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

I have the Midwest 3500. It drives so nice around town...I have 3.73s and it locks up at 26-30mph in 3rd and ~41mph in OD. You can tell it slipa a little bit more, but it is not objectionable by any means.

You wont regret getting a stall. I have 20 miles on mine and i love it (no tabs or insurance)!