Suspension & Brakes - Reduce 60ft

01 formula a4 4k stalk 3.23 gear
Has umi tubular control arms and pan hard bar with lca relocation brackets and a set up subframe connectors rest of Suspension is stock stock motor besides long tubes and ory with dump and a lid nitto 245/50/16 nt555r

Last track outing best
60ft: 1.73
1/8th :7.96
Mph 86.6

Hey Cory. Are you asking what to do next?

If so, how about a torque arm and new front shocks?...

ramey

Is the car spinning off the line at all or are you dead hooking? A 1.73 60ft isnt bad on those little Nitto NT555R drag radials. If you are dead hooking then you will need to add some power to get the 60ft down some more. If you are spinning then I would look at using a better drag radial and few suspension pieces like a torque arm and shocks would help you out.

Times are close to mine . My best time is 7.98 1.74 60 foot @86.02 I don t have headers . Stock motor eith lid .Just a basinni ory . I have a 3600 stall and Bmr lca and umi relocation brackets on a s60 with 3 73 gears. Along with a spohn torque arm. Toyo proxies drag radials. No subframes though. Getting heAders today. Not sure how well they ll help. And I have subframes I need welded on. I would be interested in learning how to lower my 60 foot as well . I am still new to racing so maybe my launch tecnique needs improved.

It spins hard still I can only get 2800 in the stall or it while light them up also tried flashing it went a 2.3 60ft everyone was saying i was spinning pretty hard

Also should I try adjusting the control arm positions on the brackets it all the way on bottom hole

You need better tires dood.....

That's what I'm thinking took it to the track last night and could only get 8.08 at 86.4 on a 1.82 60ft I only got two passes because of rain

cory i ran in to pretty much the same issue u were but my 60 was much worse.lol
i run a 325/50/15 nitto nt555r on a stock 3.23 gear (cars A4)

mods
bbk intake & tb
ms3
longtubes
truduals
fti lid
3600 stall

suspension i only have adj. pan hard and lcas.

i tried foot braking and odd as it sounds i was doing 2.1 60ft's
and when flashing it i was getting 2.07 60's

so yeah id say swap tires. i know i wasnt hooking for spit. i was spinning so bad i was coming out of the groove off the line.

had tires down at at 13 psi when i was doing my best 60's

nitto drags suck on the track,

They fill lIke they hook better on the street than the track and I'm doing long burnouts and on as low as 12psi In them

I had the 555r's and was able to get a 1.67 out of them. 315/35/17 on a cammed car. Stalled it to about 2400 on the foot brake. Stock rear suspension besides adjustable shocks. I ran them at about 22 psi, when I went lower than that I usually spun more. Like everyone else is saying it might be time for a better drag radial. I have some m/t's on the way to try to help my times.

Also should I try adjusting the control arm positions on the brackets it all the way on bottom hole

Better tires would be where I would start. Changing the lower control arm mounting position on the rear may also help a little bit. You could try moving it up one hole which would keep it from hitting the tire so hard and possibly allow you to stall the car a little higher off the line.

Drag slicks :nod:

No slick drag radials only for me I'm gonna have to go with mickey Thompson 255/50/16

Also, never underestimate the power of weight reduction. The rear seat, spare tire/jack, front sway bar, and a few other items are extremely easy to remove and will take out 50-75lbs from the car. Every 100lbs is roughly worth a .10 in the quarter. The reduced weight also means it's easier for the car to launch so you will see an improvement in your short times.
- Kevin

Also, never underestimate the power of weight reduction. The rear seat, spare tire/jack, front sway bar, and a few other items are extremely easy to remove and will take out 50-75lbs from the car. Every 100lbs is roughly worth a .10 in the quarter. The reduced weight also means it's easier for the car to launch so you will see an improvement in your short times.
- Kevin

I am actually doing just that. I removed the spare tire and jack last outting. This time I am doing rear seats, maybe passenger seat, removing dead ac compressor and I am going from a stock z28 hood to a no name aftermarket ss hood. And I am unbolting the sway bar.

If the original poster doesn't mind, I'll post my results here to back up what you're saying about weight reduction. This thread interests me since we're so close time wise. I am getting another set of runs in with this weight reduction before I put my headers on in a few weeks.

I am still fighting a slight drivetrain vibration due to incorrect pinion angle I hope. I hope to reset it right today. Been fighting it since my s60 install. I had it almost gone at one point then I decided to improve it and made it worse.

Do you guys go through the water with these tires? My best 60 foot of 1.74 was when I backed up into the water box and really heated them. (track has rear wall, have to back into water box) I have toyo proxies drag radials. If I did back to back runs, they got too hot and spun. I am saving for some m/t's.

I went down last Friday again with back seats out random junk and tools was about 50-60 Pounds I already have jack and spare out of car still has front sway bar but last Friday best

1.83 60ft
8.01 @86.8

And I don't get in the water and I tried all kinds of diff tire pressures started at 30 and went down the lower I go the better does best at 12psi for sure

I went down last Friday again with back seats out random junk and tools was about 50-60 Pounds I already have jack and spare out of car still has front sway bar but last Friday best

1.83 60ft
8.01 @86.8

And I don't get in the water and I tried all kinds of diff tire pressures started at 30 and went down the lower I go the better does best at 12psi for sure

Did you have issues with the tires spinning and how high were stalling the car up when launching?

Yea there spinning for sure and inonly stalled it to 2600-2800

If there above 20psi at all I can't get better than a 2.0-2.2 60ft

I think the stall and the control arms being on lowest spot is shocking the tire

Have you tried modulating the throttle? What I mean is rolling into WOT off your stall. When I would drag race on 17-inch Nitto drag radials I would pull myself through the second set of lights with the stall and back it down a little, then when the tree dropped, I would roll into the throttle so the car would maintain traction all the way through. I was able to get some very good 60-foots this way. I would try that out because Nittos aren't the best track tire.
- Kevin

Thanks I haven't tried that one..I'll give that a shot are local tracks open tonight I might go see what I can get

Thanks I haven't tried that one..I'll give that a shot are local tracks open tonight I might go see what I can get

Like Kevin said flashing the converter off the line may work a little better then stalling it up but I think a better set of tires is going to end up being your fix. Let us know how it runs at the track.

Will do..

I went tonight. My two best 60 foots of the night were 1.74 and 1.75. The rest were horrible. My track has a rep of bad prep though . I am getting some m/t soon . I also lost 1-2 mph and all I did was out a new idler pulley on. Weird.

Track got Rained out Friday I didn't get to go..I'll have to wait till next week

FTI 4000k Stall
615/598 232/240 114+2 lsa
17in Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials
Flashing on the convertor spins, stalling to 1500 spins
coasting out to 5mph and hitting it spins
best 60ft of 2.2
car won't hook
no suspension
got Qa1 coilovers coming
bmr panhard
need a torque arm and lcd with relocating brackets

I can't do better than a 1.74. Mostly 1.77, 1.76 and so on. A few 1.80s. I did 7.95 @ 86.70 Car hooks great now with ET streets. I put in 50/50 comp rears and removed the front sway bar. Should I be happy with this? Or can a relatively stock motor do better? It's a 3600 stall with 3:73s. It even still has exhaust manifolds on it till next week.

I can't do better than a 1.74. Mostly 1.77, 1.76 and so on. A few 1.80s. I did 7.95 @ 86.70 Car hooks great now with ET streets. I put in 50/50 comp rears and removed the front sway bar. Should I be happy with this? Or can a relatively stock motor do better? It's a 3600 stall with 3:73s. It even still has exhaust manifolds on it till next week.

Honestly that isn't too bad, you really need to some more power to go any faster than that. Once you get some more power you will definitely see those 60ft times drop, there is just only so much you can do with roughly 300 horsepower to the tires. :burn:

^^ What Kyle said. Are you 100% dead hooking now? If you're hooking well enough to bog the motor it's time for more HP!

Yeah it seems to be hooking well. I hear a occasional chirp when I launch. On the 1.77 run my s60 hit the floor. Looks like I need to clearance it a little. Can t wait to get my longtubes on to see if I can squeeze another tenth out. It felt good to embarrass a few new 5.0s at the track. They were running sticky tires so not sure what their excuse was.

Yeah it seems to be hooking well. I hear a occasional chirp when I launch. On the 1.77 run my s60 hit the floor. Looks like I need to clearance it a little. Can t wait to get my longtubes on to see if I can squeeze another tenth out. It felt good to embarrass a few new 5.0s at the track. They were running sticky tires so not sure what their excuse was.

Once you start adding some go fast goodies to the car you should see some better 60ft times and E.T.s. Keep us updated once you get back to the track with more power.

Will do. I am still working on weight reduction in the meantime while I save up for more parts. I need to get it weighed to see where I am now. A guess would be 3400. After headers I was entertaining a 100 hp shot to see where it would put me.

iv been reading this post and maybe someone can tell me what im doing wrong when my car was stock with just lid lts and xipe with a yank pt 4k stall i was dead hooking on et streets and cutting 1.65 60fts im heads and cam now and still dead hooking and can only get a 1.75 to 1.78 60ft iv tried stalling up and just flash stalling the converter. my car befor the heads and cam was doing 12.1 to 12.0 and its only doing 11.7 to 11.6 wherew am i screwing up at. also im launching on 26x10.5x16 MT slicks now cause thats all i have.

stock lowers control arms that have been boxed and stock torq arm.

Will do. I am still working on weight reduction in the meantime while I save up for more parts. I need to get it weighed to see where I am now. A guess would be 3400. After headers I was entertaining a 100 hp shot to see where it would put me.

Headers and a shot might just do it!

iv been reading this post and maybe someone can tell me what im doing wrong when my car was stock with just lid lts and xipe with a yank pt 4k stall i was dead hooking on et streets and cutting 1.65 60fts im heads and cam now and still dead hooking and can only get a 1.75 to 1.78 60ft iv tried stalling up and just flash stalling the converter. my car befor the heads and cam was doing 12.1 to 12.0 and its only doing 11.7 to 11.6 wherew am i screwing up at. also im launching on 26x10.5x16 MT slicks now cause thats all i have.

stock lowers control arms that have been boxed and stock torq arm.

I am no expert but I would think the extra power is making that stock torque arm flex. A body mounted one will prob help a lot and your tail shaft will thank you.

^^^ thnx.

oh and my mods are

lid
pacesetters
xpipe
handported 241s
tsp tsunami camshaft
pt 4k stall
3.42 rear end from a 6speed car
fast 92 with 92 mm tb

the car made 422hp and 380tq with a ls6 intake
then it made 432hp and still 380tq with the fast 92
these are coverter locked numbers

unlocked car is putting 409 hp to the ground

my first guess was the tune but i had it retuned after the fast 92 install and it is running even better now i just cant figure out what else i need or should do.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7_115

Bulletproof, strong, solid torque arms!

ramey

Alot of good suggestions here! Definately need a good tire, can't beat M/T dr or slick. But you need a susp. that can handle the power and the traction!!!! Finish the susp before adding more power, your driveline will thank you! Also when running slicks too low air pressure will slow your 60' as tire has to absorb initial hit before it moves forward. I have a 99Z cam-only A4 moser12 w/373s and best #s are 11.66@115 and 1.57 60' on M/T dr 275/50-15. Full spohn rear susp sfc, tq arm, lca, phb. front is qa1s and no swaybar. Car is @3720 race weight. Good luck with your mods and hope this helps, Larry.

1.62 60 foot with a 228r and a ptc 3200. Suspension was stock ws6, with nt05r 275 45 17's at 23psi.

Went yesterday to track and it a best of 1.76 on 17psi stalling it to 2500 and hitting it I've tried launching every way now they just can't handle it I had them down to 11psi and still could blow them off if I stalled it up high

You buy mt Et s yet? I won t buy another tire after using them. I still haven t did better than 1.74 but I am maxed out power wise. I can launch it hard now.

No still on the nitto I've tried it all I'm gonna order a set of mt
And sell these to a buddy

Cool . You will not be disappointed. I could tell they would hook as soon as I was doing my burnout. They started grabbing then. After that I did a dry hop and they were ready to go.

Yea Ive had a set of et streets on there just to play in and I could tell a huge difference but on the street they ride like crap over 50mph

Also when you make it back to the track see if you can get a buddy to video record your launch, this will honestly help out more than anything else for us to help you.

Interesting to me as I'm in the same boat. My 60's are also slow. 1.7 to 1.8 depending. Have about the same setup with a 4.30 S60, TH400. Car runs 12.4 every time. Since I only bracket race it, it's not a big deal but it irks me the 60's are so slow.

Ran a guy with a G8 last week. He red lit but look at this.

Him Me

60' 1.822 1.794
330 5.213 5.168
1/8 8.012 7.976
MPH 87.02 87.14
1000 10.415 10.414
1/4 12.428 12.475
MPH 114.81 109.52

Kind of humbling:)

Al 95 Z28

Would it be worth removing front sway bar just for the track

Yes. You lose a few pounds off the nose and free up some resistance in the front susp.

I ran Nittos on my old car before I did heads and can. Best 60' was 1.66. I had Hals up front with the drag race springs and single a DJ shocks, sfcs, lca's, v6 rear springs, rear 3 way a DJ shocks and a stock torque arm. My convertor was a vig2800. After heads and can, I swapped to a yank tp4400 and et streets, best 60' on motor was a 1.49 and on the spray was a 1.44. I should add I had 3.23 until after heads and can, they broke and when I changed to the yank, I also changed to 3.73s.